Brass Spindle Bushing Removal Tool

[ArmyFJ]

Well I have removed these before with a Dremel and Cut-off wheel. Very time consuming and unnerving.

I thought about trying to find a bearing puller to get them out and couldn't find anything at the auto parts stores here. So I looked at Harbor Freight. Then I found this little baby for $15.99 3-JAW PILOT BEARING PULLER I was a little worried that it wouldn't be up to the task due to its size butit literally took less than a min for each spindle plus it didn't leave any marring on the spindle. The tool didn't hesitate at all. Too easy.

Here of course are some pics:

[motorsargeT]

Nice setup. I broke down and bought the new style spindles with the roller bearings at my last rebuild so no more bushing swaps for me! wish I had that when I changed them in the past.

[TOY350]

Nice find Matt, might have to go pick one up.

How important is the brass bushing replacement? I didn't do mine when I rebuilt the front, it "seemed" fine and wasn't in my rebuild kit from CDan. I might be tearing into the front again to re-gear so I might want to look at these then.

[ArmyFJ]

Well when I did my disk swap on my 40 I needed to replace them because they wouldn't hold the birfield flush. I cut those out with a dremel and replaced them but they were way tight so I honed them out with a brake cylinder hone. (A recommendation I found here in the 40 section).

When I was redoing these I had the same slop and I figured it must have contributed to my passenger side flange destruction.

However, I just replace my drivers side and it still wasn't as tight as I thought it was going to/should be. But when I got out to the flange I noticed that the snap ring was right on the edge of the flange, when I took it off there was a gap maybe 1 to 2 mm or so.

I am thinking that the bushing depth had been worn out through use. However, I also changed the birfields to the longer splines and had new flanges. So I cannot confirm this yet.

I am waiting on a b/o bushing for my passenger side and when it comes in I am going to check its depth against my old one.

[Rookie2]

Originally Posted by ArmyFJ

However, I just replace my drivers side and it still wasn't as tight as I thought it was going to/should be.

Do you just tap the new ones in with a mallet or some such?

[ArmyFJ]

I used another Harbor Freight purchase I have had for a little while...Bearing and Seal Driver Set. It rocks. Drivers are made of machined aluminum.

I just coat the bushing with a little grease to let it go in a little easier and tap it down in.