[Dusty]

Originally Posted by ba450

The local salvage yards are asking $150 for any DS. If it is another $150 to get the work done, why is it worth it to have a Frankenstein DS for $300 vs. getting the Slee DC for another $115. I am in Colorado not to far from Slee though. I would think a DS made from scratch would be stronger than a Frankenstein one?... Or is it worth it to save $115?

I spent an hour going through a huge pile of dshafts at a local wrecking yard. after an hour of work i couldn't find a single yota dc joint. tons if spicer dc shafts. so i purchased the slee front shaft and worked it hard 2 weeks ago. but only in the snow. rock testing pending

another thing to consider is the limits of the angles in the dc shafts. after messing with the oe shaft and the slee shaft i can say the d/c slee shaft cant be angled as much as the non d/c oe shaft. but this is no big deal because the d/c shaft points the pinion at the tcase thus "lifting" the pinion and lessening the angle losses of using a dc shaft. I supose the same thing applies to the yota joints. one advantage of the slee joint is that it uses standard 1310 spicer ujoints at the non cv side of the shaft that can be replaced with high angle aftermarket joints.

these angle issues apply to my truck as i now have a 3 link in the front that is very flexy and I have a dana 60 that is low pinion. I have had to limit pass side axle droop due to the limits of the front drive shaft angles. note i have about 6" of lift in the front. perhaps this does not apply to the high pinion 80 series axle. if it did there would probably be reported failures.

also my rear shaft is oe and has 2 angles to deal with as my rear axle is centered. no vibrations even at 70 mph

[Tools R Us]

Originally Posted by cool breeze

Thanks for the info. Just got off the phone with the ds shop here in town and they quoted $144 for shorten/retube using a 83 wall(?) tube. I asked if it would be a stronger tube than stock and he said the thing with toyota's ds is that they're tapered and can only do so much with a retube...?..

Tom Woods gave me a price of $379 shipped for a HD piece using gold seal 1310 uj's, a .120 wall dom tubing, 180 day workmanship/ lifetime breakage warranty( uj AND damage done to ds). This seems well worth the extra $80 if im already at $300 trying to use a taco ds. Is anyone running one of their pieces on an 80?

IIRC the stock tube is ~.065". A few are different size on each end of the tube, but it's easy to see the neck down spot in the tube, they are rare. Most are straight tube. Shortening a stock tube is simple, no need to retube, unless it's damaged or you want/need heavier tube.

Most warranties are workmanship/breakage, don't cover wear. I doubt that your going to damage a front shaft, most fail from wear in the CV assembly. Most of the domestic u-joint yokes don't properly fit the flanges, requiring thin socket/wrench and are a pain to correctly install.

IMHO the stock u-joints are very good quality and proven strong, the whole point of this mod is to use stock parts. I would pay more for a shaft with Toyota joints/parts that fit properly.

[cool breeze]

oem style cv shaft is completed...long story short for now:
took the piece to the shop and when i picked it up i figured it would be completed lubed and ready to go, nope! Pulling the slip out a little bit i saw old, sand caked grease that was certainly not new. Pulled it apart and cleaned everything real good and lubed all 4 zirks...dont know how the hell im gonna do that once it's on the truck.

Here's my lapse of brain function; i forgot to notice the hash marks and the brake cleaner erased all the paint around. Ive read the front lc ds is supposed to be out of phase but this isnt the stock piece. From Bear80's pic i tlooks like the taco ds is set IN phase so this is how i will be putting it on...sound good? I'm thinking f its suppose to go in phase then it can go one of two ways because of the shop balancing, its should be simple be trial and error.??

Finished piece: please notice the weights in the 3rd pic, do those look right?

[landtank]

looks fine to me. The joints should be in phase and all the zirks should be on the same side so you can get to all of them with the shaft in a single position. As far as greasing, you rotate the shaft so the zirks dace up which opens the CV joint some and allows you to get to that center zirk. The newer style OEM joints actually have a curved zirk in there that makes it a little easier.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by landtank

The newer style OEM joints actually have a curved zirk in there that makes it a little easier.

Dan probably doesn't know the pn of that curved zirk but I'll bet he can get them.
-B-

[landtank]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Dan probably doesn't know the pn of that curved zirk but I'll bet he can get them.
-B-

Dan can check but I don't think they are compatible. And if they screwed in you would need to tear apart the CV to install it.

[cool breeze]

Thanks for checking it out, makes me more comfortable about bolting it up.

[RedTacoma]

Quick question. Do the u-joints on Land Cruiser and 4 runner are the same?
If they are the same maybe there is a way to pull double cardan only and replace on u-joints.(Spliting LandCruiser shaft at TC)

[cool breeze]

different part numbers but from my newbish info coming from the experts is toyo u-joints havent changed for about 20 years so yes but i forget the specifics..?

[RedTacoma]

Originally Posted by cool breeze

different part numbers but from my newbish info coming from the experts is toyo u-joints havent changed for about 20 years so yes but i forget the specifics..?

Thank you I may try it this weekend then. I have 4runner shaft with double cardan I will see what happens. If Ujoints are the same then it should not be bad as it will add only 1.5 inch to the length. Not much considering lifted truck needs longer shaft anyway. But that would be the easiest and cheapest solution.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by RedTacoma

I have 4runner shaft with double cardan I will see what happens.

Bear80 has a thread that identifies which 4R shafts work with our 80s. I think the rear shaft works on the front of the 80 but check his thread to be sure.

-B-

[96r50]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Bear80 has a thread that identifies which 4R shafts work with our 80s. I think the rear shaft works on the front of the 80 but check his thread to be sure.

-B-

That wouldn't be this same thread now would it? Long day there Beo?

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by 96r50

That wouldn't be this same thread now would it? Long day there Beo?

Man, I reallly need some coffee or something. At least it didn't take long to search for Bear's thread.

.... I'm going back to my hole now.

-B-

[Bear80]

My writeup skills suck but to try and clear things up again.

For a DC joint REAR shaft, ONLY a '96-'02 4x4 4runner rear shaft will work. The bolt pattern on the slip yoke end is NOT the same as the Land Cruiser. The DC joint end off the 4Runner will have to be tubed with the Land Cruiser slipe yoke on the other end.

ONLY ONLY a Tacoma REAR shaft can be used for the FRONT of the Land Cruiser. I've cut open another Tundra shaft and seen first hand why most drive line shops cannot or are not will to do so. The rear shaft off an Xtra or Crew Cab Prerunner/4x4 Tacoma will work.

As far as U-Joint interchange, there is NO cross to the u-joints in the DC joints. The WHOLE assembly must be replaced. The other u-joints can cross to several types of tucks/4runners/land cruisers but Toyota lists different part numbers for some reason. Keep in mind that the stock Land Cruiser rear shaft used LARGER u-joints, which crosses to previous Land Cruisers u-joints.

[RedTacoma]

Originally Posted by Bear80

My writeup skills suck but to try and clear things up again.

For a DC joint REAR shaft, ONLY a '96-'02 4x4 4runner rear shaft will work. The bolt pattern on the slip yoke end is NOT the same as the Land Cruiser. The DC joint end off the 4Runner will have to be tubed with the Land Cruiser slipe yoke on the other end.

ONLY ONLY a Tacoma REAR shaft can be used for the FRONT of the Land Cruiser. I've cut open another Tundra shaft and seen first hand why most drive line shops cannot or are not will to do so. The rear shaft off an Xtra or Crew Cab Prerunner/4x4 Tacoma will work.

As far as U-Joint interchange, there is NO cross to the u-joints in the DC joints. The WHOLE assembly must be replaced. The other u-joints can cross to several types of tucks/4runners/land cruisers but Toyota lists different part numbers for some reason. Keep in mind that the stock Land Cruiser rear shaft used LARGER u-joints, which crosses to previous Land Cruisers u-joints.

Hmm Ok I guess maybe there is a need for another plan
How about taking to Join flanges and putting 1/4 inch piece of metal inbetween then bolting them together and welding. This way they would form a double cardan.

It will have to get balanced but don't see how it would brake a part. Any comments.
I mean price would end up close to buyin the Slees double cardan but you would and up with 99% LC shaft using stock u-joints and parts.

[rockclmbr]

Hopefully someone from this thread can help out. I've got a Front Double Cardan DS from Slee that has crapped out after only 4,700miles. I've also lubed it 3x with Mobile 1 synth grease. After my last trail, I heard a chirp and when I got home I traced it down the front DS at the DC joint.

I've dropped it off at a local driveline shop and they said of course it failed, it is a mixture of Chinese and Australian parts. Go American and you won't need to look back. He is also quoting me around $450 to make a nice all American component shaft that will last.

I'd prefer to go all Toyota and am now searching for the simplest way without having to drill out the flanges on the Transfer Case.

[Atoyot1031]

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

Hopefully someone from this thread can help out. I've got a Front Double Cardan DS from Slee that has crapped out after only 4,700miles. I've also lubed it 3x with Mobile 1 synth grease. After my last trail, I heard a chirp and when I got home I traced it down the front DS at the DC joint.

I've dropped it off at a local driveline shop and they said of course it failed, it is a mixture of Chinese and Australian parts. Go American and you won't need to look back. He is also quoting me around $450 to make a nice all American component shaft that will last.

I'd prefer to go all Toyota and am now searching for the simplest way without having to drill out the flanges on the Transfer Case.

Might I suggest contacting Christo about it?

Slee stands by his products. I have one of his front DC shafts and it started chirping on a cross-country trip from lack of lube (my fault and PO's fault). Christo told me where I needed to lube it, and after I finally got the needle fitting to go into the joint (had to beat the crap out of a few tiny screwdrivers), I got it to accept grease, and it was fine.

That really doesn't have anything to do with your situation other than we both have Slee shafts, but for that kinda money and that quick of failure, I'd give him a call.

P.S. I think he recommends lube every 3,000 miles?

[rockclmbr]

I was aware of the 3,000 mile lube interval and stuck to that religiously. My maintenance records show a lube prior to installing it, one after 2,500 miles (Trip to Rubicon and Baja) and a third lube right before Wentworth Springs. I noticed the dust seal was blown out, could I have over-lubed causing too much pressure build up, thus blowing the seal?

I'll contact Christo, thanks for the heads-up.

[landtank]

I have a spare Tacoma shaft that has been converted to use on an 80. It's out of a 2004 truck. I don't know the mileage and it would probably be more money than another one from Slee. My guy has done about 8 of them for me and they have all been perfect.

PM me if I can help out.

[rockclmbr]

I'm interested!

Did you mean it would be 'Less' money? I hope

[landtank]

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

I'm interested!

Did you mean it would be 'Less' money? I hope

I doubt it. Since the great Tacoma buy back these shafts have been a little more scarce. So sourcing, re-tubing and balancing brings them in higher than what Slee gets for his. I personally think they are worth it but that's just me.

You have to realize that the cheapest way to get Koyo parts is to buy one of these shafts and re-tube it. So right now it's the most cost effective OEM solution but you could buy a new Tacoma shaft for @ $1700.00 and re-tube it if you wanted brand new.

[rockclmbr]

you could buy a new Tacoma shaft for @ $1700.00

That puts it in perspective!

I found a few used Taco shafts at TOY Connection in Santa Clara for $150. I'm going to go down there tomorrow and hopefully find a low mileage one. Any tips on inspecting them to see if they are worth purchasing??

[landtank]

you want to cycle the joints and feel for catches during the motion. The biggest hurdle is to find a competent drive line shop. DC shafts can be finicky so phasing and balancing can be critical.

[sleeoffroad]

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

Hopefully someone from this thread can help out. I've got a Front Double Cardan DS from Slee that has crapped out after only 4,700miles. I've also lubed it 3x with Mobile 1 synth grease. After my last trail, I heard a chirp and when I got home I traced it down the front DS at the DC joint.

Did you grease the u-joints and the ball with a needle adapter? Or just the joints. Lots of people grease the u-joints but not the ball. I would be glad to get it back and ask the driveline shop why it failed.

I've dropped it off at a local driveline shop and they said of course it failed, it is a mixture of Chinese and Australian parts. Go American and you won't need to look back. He is also quoting me around $450 to make a nice all American component shaft that will last.

I have yet to see a driveline shop that does not criticize a shaft brought in and blame either bad workmanship or parts. The DC joint we use are all new Spicer parts. Now if Spicer decided that they need to make those in China I do not know. The weird thing is that when we used joints from Rockford (USA made) we had way more failures and could only use about 60% of the new joints we received from them. Them rest was returned. One of the reasons why we abandoned the Koyo like joint.

Did your shop actually say they saw MADE IN CHINA on the parts, or are the just speculating?

I'd prefer to go all Toyota and am now searching for the simplest way without having to drill out the flanges on the Transfer Case.

Drilling the flanges is not an option unless you remove the output shaft from the case. There is studs pressed into it so you have to remove it, press the studs out, then redrill.

[sleeoffroad]

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

I noticed the dust seal was blown out, could I have over-lubed causing too much pressure build up, thus blowing the seal?

What seal was blown out? Also what part failed. The chirping noise is typically from the ball being dry.

I'll contact Christo, thanks for the heads-up.

[Dusty]

every other respected driveline shop uses spicer joints. (tom woods, high angle driveline, etc) They are the industry standard. the yota joint hype is just hype-not better enough to warrant the extra pain to have them. The only reason they last so long is because the yota guys are all so anal and service the hell out of everything.

[rockclmbr]

Christo, thanks for the reply. Yes, I did grease all 3 fittings on the DC end and the 2 fittings on the single u-joint end. The one in the middle of the CV does require a needle or special adapter on the grease gun and I did that one 3x over a period of 2 years and less than 5,000 miles.

I don't see any markings or numbers on them so I cannot attest to what make/model they are. I do believe each shop will push their own product such as the one I am working with now. They said regardless of maintenance, they are crappy components and will fail prematurely ever time. Whatever. It is already done and I'm glad I found it at home in the driveway.

I ended up finding a local Toyota salvage yard with a decent looking Taco rear DS. I'm having the driveline shop cut and weld a new tube in place to keep it all KOYO / Toyota.

Thanks for the assistance guys! Hopefully I do not have to look back.

As for the crapolla driveshaft, not sure what to do with it.

[rockclmbr]

What seal was blown out? Also what part failed. The chirping noise is typically from the ball being dry.

at the end of one of the U-joints on the CV side, there is a rubber gasket/seal shaped like an o-ring that is sticking out of the bearing cup(??) I'm not familiar with all of the parts, but it looks like the grease pressure blew it out and then the grease was not contained, therefore it dried out and failed. That is my educated guess. It looks very dry and the metal is freshly worn there as well.


I guess us anal Toyota guys grease the hell outta everything way too much.

What do you guys recommend for grease? I've been using the red Mobil 1 Synth grease.

[Atoyot1031]

Originally Posted by rockclmbr

at the end of one of the U-joints on the CV side, there is a rubber gasket/seal shaped like an o-ring that is sticking out of the bearing cup(??) I'm not familiar with all of the parts, but it looks like the grease pressure blew it out and then the grease was not contained, therefore it dried out and failed. That is my educated guess. It looks very dry and the metal is freshly worn there as well.


I guess us anal Toyota guys grease the hell outta everything way too much.

What do you guys recommend for grease? I've been using the red Mobil 1 Synth grease.

Pics? That sounds like the u-joint itself. In which case the shaft would be good, you'd just need to replace a ~$30 part.

[sleeoffroad]

Please contact me on info@sleeoffroad.com so we can check into this and see what we can do.