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01-07-08, 04:46 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 989
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Power window repair w/pics
Like many folks, my driver's side power window stopped working one day. At first it wouldn't go back up at all, then with some help it would. It started out doing this only once and a while. The culprit seemed to be the window runs as everyone talks about.
But then the power window really stopped working to the point that it sounded like the motor gears were turning, but not moving the window, like the motor gears had stripped out.
After pulling it all apart, I couldn't figure out the problem. The motor worked fine and the regulator and external tracks and gears looked just fine.
Then I tore into the motor and found that the internal gearing in the motor had stripped out.
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01-07-08, 04:51 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 989
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The power window system uses all metal gears both externally and internally, except for this one plastic gear, which I assume is plastic to be a controllable failure point without damaging other parts of the system, particularly the window.
After tearing it apart, I found further damage with the motor that preceeded the gearing stripping. This picture shows the motor taken apart, but partly cleaned so you can't see all the rust and crap and was inside the internal gearing mechanism.
What it looked like to me was that somehow water got inside and rusted all the metal parts, causing the c-clip to fail, when caused the gear shaft to become loose. This shaft fits in a rectangular hole which keeps it nice and solid, but the hole became rounded and the gear was now wobling around.
It could also be that wear from normal use caused the rounded hole, which caused the gear shaft to become loose, which allowed water inside, which destroyed the c-clip making it worse and rusting everything out.
I suspect this is the root cause of all 80 series power window failures and almost all 80 series driver's side power window motors look like this to one degree or another.
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01-07-08, 04:54 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 989
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So, I went about looking for a way to repair it. A new motor is something like $285. I had hoped, against hope, that the rear door window motor would fit as a replacement since I don't roll down the rear driver's window (no seat there).
When I tore into it, I found that the motors were different (no surprise) but not much different. They were indentical, except for different plugs and the motor gear arrangement was simply reversed for some reason. I found that I could in fact swap out the internal gearing mechanism between the two motors.
Here's a picture of the rear door gear motor with the gear mechanism cap popped off. Notice how nice and pristine it is inside? I can only guess this was due to it's lack of use and wear.
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01-07-08, 05:00 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 989
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So, I basically just popped out the better condition gears from the rear motor and put them into the front window motor and then swapped in the old worn and stripped gears into the rear window motor.
Here's a picture of the front motor with the "new" rear motor gears in place, dust cap read to reinstall.
After swapping gears, the rear motor with the bad gears was reinstalled and the door put back together with the window in the up position. Power to the motor was disconnected, so I don't accidently roll it down and all is good. I never roll down that window anyway, so it's no problem.
The new "rebuilt" motor was reinstalled in the front door and the tracks were readjusted to factory specs. The window runs were thoroughly cleaned and lubed and now the whole thing works perfectly.
I plan to replace the runs as soon as I can order a set from C-dan, since they were probably a major cause of the failure.
However, one major lesson learned here is that the window gear mechanism in all these 80 series windows that are slow or stop working is probably the major culprit. I've read mention of the gear being loose and folks wondering if that was normal. That answer is no, it's not normal at all. The gear should be rock solid. It's loose, because the gear shaft is worn and/or the C-clip has come loose.
The best thing about this fix is that it didn't cost me a dime and my front window works good as new!
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01-07-08, 05:12 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Deep East Texas
Posts: 2,262
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Just a question....but, did you check with C-Dan to see if the plastic gear is available separately?
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'97 Land Cruiser, Moonglow Pearl
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01-07-08, 07:12 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 450
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Thanks Brian for a great write up. So you're suggesting by replacing the window runs early (when the slow-role-up symptoms appear) we may prevent the plastic teeth from shearing under the increased resistance?
mike
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1996 FZJ80 not-locked, Emu 861/862, ARB, Slee sliders and skids, 285 Nitto TGs, hopefully exploring somewhere in North America.
www.purplelizard.com
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01-07-08, 08:28 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,853
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I would get a motor from a Toy vehicle in a junk yard and swap in the good parts to the rear motor.
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1972 C2500 long bed, 2005 Odyssey, 2008 Tundra double cab
Idaho
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01-07-08, 05:21 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
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I haven't checked with C-dan yet to see if that gear is available, but I'd be extremely surprised if it was. The motor doesn't look like it's serviceable and the metal cover has to be pryed off. There's no screws, so I'm betting it's sold as a unit only. What I would need is the plastic gear, the round metal gear guide and the gear shaft as all were worn or destroyed.
I don't recall anyone else posting having stripped the gears, but I would definately replace the runs early based on the threads I've read as they are cheap and easy to replace. If the door is apart, it's not super difficult to pull the motor and track out to at least examine their condition. Most people may not have dug deep enough into why their window quit working to find that the plastic gear stripped out and this might be more common that we realize. Because mine only partly stripped, the motor would still partly work, but made a clicking noise and got hung up when the stripped part of the plastic gear hit the metal worm gear of the motor.
I will eventually permanantly fix the rear window, and junkyard parts are a good suggestion, but like I said, the driver's side rear seat is out of the car as I use that area for storage, so I don't have any need to roll down that window.
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01-07-08, 07:09 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 329
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Man, great write up and pics.
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1997 LX 450, OEM Lockers
2003 VeeDub Jetta 1.8T (The Wifeys)
A_Soldiers_Diary
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01-07-08, 09:41 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: DuPont, WA
Posts: 9
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You the man - well done!
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Brian B.
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10-01-08, 08:20 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 282
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On the same note, doesa nyone know if the rear passenger side motor is identical to the front driver's side?
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JOHN
OLDE NORTH STATE CRUISERS
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10-01-08, 10:10 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Pole, Ak
Posts: 1,173
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Cool writeup! Good job.
TK
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1966 FJ-45lv resto. in progress
1966 FJ-45lv donor
1971 FJ-40 fun truck, resto. in progress
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1985 FJ-60 donor
1985 FJ-60 creampuff
1993 FZJ-80 built to haul groceries
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10-01-08, 01:08 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 71
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My motors have always been fine.. But the arms attached to the motor, and the rail that bolts into the door are all bent up practically beyond repair, and the rubber that holds the window is all dry and sticks to the window rather than letting it slide smoothly. Also, the rubber it sits in around the window sill is peeling out, and the sill on the outside of the door is pushed up and snapped the plastic retainers so it rains in the door. But it never seems to get wet.
I need to fix it but I'm not sure about all those little parts...
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10-01-08, 01:09 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTAFAN
On the same note, doesa nyone know if the rear passenger side motor is identical to the front driver's side?
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No it's not. I tried..
The motors are the same, but the arms and rails are different.
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10-13-08, 03:15 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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still solving problems...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: uhhhh...duh...Northern CA
Posts: 5,334
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excellent write up!
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a couple pairs of pink panties...
Another convert to the Church of Latter Day Swank, a sub-cult of Shahrislam
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"I have more respect for people who change their views after acquiring new information than for those who cling to views they held thirty years ago. The world changes. Ideologues and zealots don't." - Michael Crichton
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10-13-08, 06:54 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: TN
Posts: 2,472
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Might be worth a PM to Nakman & see if he can have the gears re-made.....
Since he has remade the seat plugs & motor gears for the front/back motor he might be able to make these.....
Worth a shot
Great right up.
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 You can't fix Stupid 
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10-16-08, 08:48 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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tlcwagons.org
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,745
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i don't have this problem but the windows are slow. do i need to replace the window runs?
nice writeup, good reference
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10-16-08, 09:53 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Granite Falls, WA
Posts: 576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstToy
i don't have this problem but the windows are slow. do i need to replace the window runs?
nice writeup, good reference
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My driver side window was really slow especially when powering up. I replaced the run last weekend and problem solved.
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1997 CE Land Cruiser: Locked, ARB w/ M12000
1996 LX450: Locked, ARB w/ no winch yet
1990 XtraCab 4x4 pickup: ARB w/ M8000
1986 Standard cab 4x4 pickup: Locked, ARB w/ XD9000
1985 XtraCab 4x4 pickup: ARB w/ M8000
1995 Acura Integra (Daily Driver)
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