Fixed slow driver's power lock!

IdahoDoug · 07-28-04, 12:01 AM

Klunky and Tucker both had this same issue. The driver's power lock switch reluctantly moves the driver's lock and eventually only moves it halfway into the locked position.

Took off the driver's panel today to see what's going on with a squeak that drives me crazy from the door limiter strap. Then remembered the slow lock. So, I pulled the switch panel off the armrest - this can be done very quickly without removing the door panel (nice design).

You'll find the grey (or your interior color) trim panel can be removed with 3 bright screws. Then the final disassembly step is to remove the 4 black screws that allow you to separate the switch assembly (no need to remove the milky clear cover on the bottom though I did out of curiousity). Before actually pulling the switch assembly apart, you'll need to simply pop the window locking switch off (straight up) and use a tiny screwdriver or other to push the tiny white clips off holding the power lock switch rocker on and then pop it off straight up as well.

Now you can pull the switch assembly apart and see the actual switch contacts for all switches (again - nice design Toyota). Do this in a clean and well lighted spot that is free of clutter as there are some small parts that could fall out if you are a clutz. Mine did not, but just pointing it out. Once the top of the switch assembly is laid aside, take note that each switch contact has a bird-in-flight shaped metal rocker that is simply sitting there now and some may have fallen a bit out of position. Also, there are a few tiny columnar springs now just sitting where they provide ground when the assembly is closed. Just noting this as if you get crazy you could be wondering where things went, so be smooth.

The first thing you'll notice is how blackened and filthy the driver's power window switch contacts are. They're different from the others due to the "auto down" feature. Guess why the window has been slow for years? All the contacts in my assembly had a bit of black crud on them to one degree or another.

I thought I'd need to clean them with sandpaper but quickly learned it is just a sooty deposit that came off. So, I wet tiny pieces of paper towel with brake cleaner and wiped all the contacts off. Easy since the bird shaped things simply lift off for cleaning and access to their mates.

The driver's contacts I actually sprayed and let the cleaner flow off the switch assembly since they do not come out like the others. Then I used wet (with brake cleaner) paper towel pieces between the contacts and pulled them out a few times until they came out clean. The actual reason I was in there was to clean the lock switch contacts and they were moderately dirty.

On assembly, note that the power lock rocker switch MUST be mated to its white actuator (the white clips you released with a tiny screwdriver) before putting the "lid" with the other switches back on. Don't forget the trick little rubber boot.

After reassembly, the power lock switch works perfectly and with a firm movement as new. I did not put any lube on the lock actuator arm as I once tried years ago to correct this. The driver's window is also more lively.

So, if you've got this symptom, you're about to see another great reason to own an 80 - electric switches that can actually be cleaned and that will run forever.

DougM

landtank · 07-28-04, 04:51 AM

Strange that the common switch only effected the DS lock. I had some pitting on one of my window switches that needed to be taken off. As far as the contacts for the auto up window switch, the proper tool to use there is called a bernishing tool. Looks like a very small and very smooth file. You can find them at a good electronics store.

tucker74 · 07-28-04, 07:40 AM

Great job Doug - I'll have to pull mine apart this weekend and see if I have the same luck! I would have probably tried to lube the lock ... but if this works there's no need I suppose...

Tucker

IdahoDoug · 07-28-04, 06:26 PM

Rick,

My contacts were not flat, so there was no way to see if they were pitted. They were a waffle type face, so I was glad I was able to clean them with chemicals as I'd be reluctant to remove that waffle texture without knowing why it's there.

DougM

landtank · 07-28-04, 09:16 PM

Mine wher the same waffle texture, but a pit is a pit and has to go when it's interfering with the connection process. Twice my lock on my rear hatch has gotten in a position that was somewhere in the middle between locked and unlocked. I've taken the mechanism out and couldn't find anything wrong. The second time it happened I hit the hatch with my fist and it was enough to jar the mechanism out of this middle spot and the power lock worked again. WOnder if it's from the same switch contact you worked on? Just seems strange for it to effect only one lock and not the others.

IdahoDoug · 07-28-04, 09:27 PM

I'm guessing here, but could it be the local switch acts directly on the local lock, and throws a relay for the other doors? It seems to make sense that all power flow for all locks would not go through each switch as some power loss would result from the long wire runs. Dunno. I'll be looking at the wiring diagram for something else soon, so will check it out.

DougM

Houston FZJ80 · 04-05-05, 02:25 PM

Picture of my window switches - '95 w/153K.

Cleaned up very easily using techniques mentioned above. Thanks!

hatfieldcb · 09-28-06, 04:03 PM

Does cleaning the contacts really help a slow DS window or is lubing the tracks a better course of action? Mine seems to be really slow only when it is cold.

IdahoDoug · 09-28-06, 09:54 PM

Cleaning and lubing the weatherstripping did it for my windows. I used white lithium grease after gentle toothbrushing with a mild soap. Let them dry for a day and then greased.

DougM

hatfieldcb · 09-29-06, 11:30 AM

Did you take the inside panel off and do anything in the door itself? Mine is a lot worse going up than going down.

94landcruiser · 06-04-07, 08:42 PM

Nice write up. Thanks

I found after I got my new alternator my windows (all of them) move much better. I'll do this too.

treerootCO · 02-28-08, 09:54 AM

Ran across this thread while going through the FAQ - Here are the before and after pics of my contacts. Cleaning them cured most of the sticky lock and slow window issues.

IdahoDoug · 02-28-08, 02:45 PM

Been meaning to post the disconsolate news that my slow 93 driver's lock is back and has been for a long time. It didn't seem to cure the problem. My 97 is now beginning to do it even though a month ago I cleaned the driver's switch bank to speed up the driver's window (marginal effect).

So, the windows seemed to benefit the best from having the weatherstrip they slide in cleaned, the lubed. No love on the driver's lock.

DougM