WhooHooo, not the headgasket, cracked block

[tucsonlx]

I started a thread a couple of weeks ago saying how I thought my headgasket was blown due to a coolant leak I had. Got pretty depressed about having to do the work but figured at least I wouldn't have to worry about it anymore. Well, after spending a little more time under the hood I found where the leak was really coming from. The center freeze plug under the intake. So I figured it was not that big of deal and I got on mud to see what I could find with the search. After a little reading I got a little more worried and went out to see whether that dreaded crack was present. After about 5 minutes with a toothbrush it was nice and clean and cracked. About an inch long and weeping coolant.

So now I am trying to figure out how to make it last for another 2 years until I am done with Dental School.

1st thing: Replace Freeze plug and see what happen

If still leaking: Some sort of stop-leak (any recommendations)

If still leaking: Good old fashion JB

If still leaking: Buy stock in whoever makes Toyo Red for the next 18 months and drop the truck off with Robbie on my way back to Az

Any other recommendations????

Here is a nice pic for all of you visual types

[Lka1988]

1. JB Weld
2. New block
3. Diesel/V8 swap

Those would be my suggestions.

[chibo]

JB Weld that thing. I've got something JB Welded on my truck and it's been holding the leak for almost a year now.

[gray]

Bar's heavy duty block sealer until it doesn't work anymore, whoops, and JB weld,
Or, trade up a couple of years.
What year is your cruiser, miles, condtion, etc??

[Ting]

damn... Another case of crack block in the similar place. It's seem like some kind of flaw in casting of that area. I have heard of close to 10 cases like this including my last one.

Sorry about it, my suggestion is keep driving, and keep an eye on coolant level. Robbie's temp suggestion on mine was to a clean water flush until all is really clean, and use some barrs leak or using JB weld(12 hour type) for temp solution. I would not recommend swapping out freeze plug.

Swap the engine out or buy $3000 new block from cDan in a couple of years.

This was mine....

[gray]

Why do some crack and others not; probably been covered; just lazy.

[Cruiserdrew]

Just buy a used motor. I've seen the whole thing posted here for $750. Just swap and go.

[landtoy80]

BG make a BG Universal Cooling System Sealer.
I just dumped it in my rad for a heater core pipe leak and it stopped leaking.
I have seen some crack sealers where you remove all the coolant and run the stuff through to seal the crack. It was at Autozone and Checker.
I would try the BG first.

They are just band aids but what do you have to lose the block is not going to get any better.
I also bought a two part past that you mix together and gets hard made for gast anks and rad leaks. You might try that too.


With all these fix in a bottle, makes you wounder what you are buying when you buy a used car???????

[tucsonlx]

Wow, those are some quick replies. I really just need to "fix" it for the 2 years until I actually have an income again and can sink 3 or 4 thousand into it. It is a 97 with 85k on it. Figures something big would happen considering I just paid it off 5 months ago. Damn I am bummed out right now. So any idea what this cost to get fixed at a dealer? I am guessing around 6K

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by tucsonlx

Wow, those are some quick replies. I really just need to "fix" it for the 2 years until I actually have an income again and can sink 3 or 4 thousand into it. It is a 97 with 85k on it.

Step 1. See post #5.
Step 2. Read post #5.
Step 3. Follow instructions attributed to Robbie in post #5.

Repeat.

-B-

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by gray

Why do some crack and others not; probably been covered; just lazy.

Stress crack. We've seen several in that exact location.

-B-

[landtoy80]

PERMATEX® FORM-A-SEAL® Leak Repair

Forms a durable rubber barrier that stops leaks in minutes without part removal. Many auto, home, shop, garage, farm, marine and industrial uses. THE SPRAYABLE SEALER eliminates the need for liquid additive sealers. Resists common shop fluids. Level 3

Suggested Applications:
Engine and transmission leaks, cooling systems, plumbing, masonry, wood, plastics, glass, PVC.

I have a can but have not used it. Bought it for the oil leaks on the oil pan but the RotellaT Syn sealed the leaks.

[flem0061]

That stuff's da bomb... Someone cut a hole behind the outside door handle (driver side) on my 60 before I bought it - not sure why, maybe to break in??

Anyway, I welded a new plate behind it with JB Weld when I bought it so that you couldn't reach your fingers through and toggle the lock. The hole and plate were just about the same size as the door handle so the handle sprung directly into the new plate. That lasted about 3 years of door handle slamming every time I got into the truck.

It was a great temporary fix.

[Romer]

I edited the title. We try and keep tech family friendly and let a little of that go in the threads, but the title is hard to avoid on the main page

[flem0061]

Thanks Romer, I couldn't agree more with the edit.

[flintknapper]

The block is cast iron right?

It can be welded if all coolant is removed and the area is cleaned and preheated. I wouldn't think twice about doing mine right in place.

Remove exhaust manifolds and anything else in the way. Thoroughly clean area, grind small "v" over crack, preheat with torch and weld it. It could be "brazed", but I've always used the cast iron rods available for stick welding on everything I've done. Preheating is the trick.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

The block is cast iron right?

It can be welded if all coolant is removed and the area is cleaned and preheated. I wouldn't think twice about doing mine right in place.

Remove exhaust manifolds and anything else in the way. Thoroughly clean area, grind small "v" over crack, preheat with torch and weld it. It could be "brazed", but I've always used the cast iron rods available for stick welding on everything I've done. Preheating is the trick.

That crack is on the intake side and extremely difficult to get to. I do not think you could weld it without removing the engine. You can barely get a toothbrush to that location. It sure would be good if someone with some welding skills would give it a go because there have been several with the same crack in the same location.

-B-

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

That crack is on the intake side and extremely difficult to get to. I do not think you could weld it without removing the engine. You can barely get a toothbrush to that location. It sure would be good if someone with some welding skills would give it a go because there have been several with the same crack in the same location.

-B-

Whoops, didn't look at it that closely. Assumed it was the exhaust side. Nonetheless, I'm confident a reliable weld could be applied once access to the area was achieved.

Cast Iron welding can be a little tricky, but it can be done successfully. I prefer doing it with a torch because I can control the "flow" of the material better, as well as keeping the area heated so that cooling is gradual. But it can be stick welded too.

I don't recommend anyone do it themselves UNLESS they have read up on the subject first. There are some "tricks" to it.

Does this leak/crack generally show up on the intake side?

[94cruisercal]

If you consider welding this crack go to the AWS forum and search for cast welding tips. Some of the top minds in welding, engineering and inspection frequent that forum and should be able to provide you with some direction if you ask nicely. They have a section dedicated to automotive inquirys. http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/forum_show.pl

Theres the link to get you there.

Preheat is essential as well as a slow cooling rate. Use some insulation preferably "Kaowool" to slow the cooling rate. This is a ceramic fiber insulation commonly used in pottery kilns and industrial pressure vessel insulation. Im sure you could use something else such as packed sand if you can remove the part but then if you've removed it you should consider having someone experienced in this type of welding repair it for you. High nickel rods should be helpful as well. But again I recommend the AWS site as the guys there are more than willing to share their expertise with anyone willing to learn.
Regards,
Rob

[gray]

I have a broinlaw who is a retired welder, I can ask his opinion.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Does this leak/crack generally show up on the intake side?

Yes. Same side of the block. Same location.

-B-

[chibo]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Yes. Same side of the block. Same location.

-B-

Is there a common denominator between all these cracked blocks? I notice there is an engine mount fairly close.

[john_eckels]

Originally Posted by chibo

JB Weld that thing. I've got something JB Welded on my truck and it's been holding the leak for almost a year now.

I love that stuff. I used it to seal my windshield washer diverter about a year ago and it is still going. I have used it to repair my kids toys a few times too. The front axle broke off a die cast tractor and it has held up for over 6 years now

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by chibo

Is there a common denominator between all these cracked blocks? I notice there is an engine mount fairly close.

Luck or lack of it.
-B-

[cpg]

Thermal expansion?

[cpg]

http://www.locknstitch.com/ExpansionContraction.htm

This company repairs cast iron blocks all the time.
But it is not as easy as JB weld.

[Ting]

Originally Posted by cpg

http://www.locknstitch.com/ExpansionContraction.htm

This company repairs cast iron blocks all the time.
But it is not as easy as JB weld.

I contacted them before, and they were very helpful. They do need the engine remove from the rig. I also talked to Cylinder Head guys who do similar stuff like locknstich, and he didn't want to do it. He could not guarantee the work.