Spare Tire Lift???

Rogue · 05-21-03, 02:50 PM

I currently have my spare in the truck and have removed the spare carrier from under the truck. I need all the space I can get for an upcoming move. If this will work I will likely leave it as a permanent arrangement until I can afford a new rear bumper.

So the question is, will it work?

Beowulf · 05-21-03, 03:10 PM

Rogue,
That should work OK for tyre diameters up to 33". Not sure about larger. John Holmaas did something similar and posted pics. There is a lot of verticle room under the cargo floor.

Let me know and I'll try to dig up links to his mods.
-B-

landtank · 05-21-03, 03:15 PM

Well I'm completely lost here. Why don't you just reinstall the tire carrier?

Beowulf · 05-21-03, 03:18 PM

Rick,
Rogue removed the carrier from under the truck and he puts his spare in the cargo area for clearance when wheeling. Now he needs the cargo space for a move. His plans are to put it back under the truck but also to improve clearance by raising the spare the maximum amount.
-B-

Rogue · 05-21-03, 03:41 PM

Beo,

I think I have devised a way to raise the tire sufficiently. It looks as though it must go at least 4" and no more than around 5" up. What I worry about is how high the tire lowering doohicky will be once I relocate it. Any pictures of Holmaas' setup would likely help immensely. I already searched lcool and couldn't find anything there. Thanks.

Beowulf · 05-21-03, 08:19 PM

Rogue,
Not much help but this is the only image I have.
-B-

Rogue · 05-21-03, 10:57 PM

That is perfect Beo. Tonight when I realized the amount of work need to fab up the brackets I imagined something like this. Now I just need to figure out exactly how high I can go with it.

Thanks!!!

landtank · 05-22-03, 03:04 AM

If you go with the idea that Holmas did you might consider using cast iron pipe instead of the nuts. The pipe would probably install easier and can be cut to odd lengths as well.

Rogue · 05-22-03, 09:15 AM

I already have the nuts (I hope Junk doesn't read this). Yesterday I tried stacking 8 high and it was just a little too high to reach the lowering thingy. Today I will be trying 6. BTW the nuts are about 3/8" thick each so this should provide an adequate lift.

Junk · 05-22-03, 01:38 PM

No comment on the # of nuts Rogue

0 but yeah dude the pipe would be mucho easier. Of course if you had Christo's bumper you wouldn't need to worry 'bout it.

I don't think that with Holmaas's design you need to worry about the lowering mechanism at all. Should still be reachable.

Rogue · 05-22-03, 05:57 PM

It ended up looking just like the picture of Holmaas' setup. The bottom of the tire is at the same level as the recently re-installed reciever.

Junk,

I'd really like one of Christo's rear bumpers, but I am a bit short on cash and have bad credit. Want to give me some cash? :tear:

cary · 05-22-03, 06:47 PM

I would like to mimic this setup as it would be nice to have the extra clearance all the time. When you complete it, can you please post the lenght of bolts, thread, and number of nuts you ended up using? Also, if you can say if it created any rattles. I looked under the truck when I bought it because I couldn't believe it hung that low, and for the life of me cannot figure out why toyota put it down there (I am guessing crash performance).

Thanks

Junk · 03-30-04, 01:17 PM

Hey Pimp,

How about adding a pic or two of your mod so this can be added to the FAQ's? I'm putting you to work dude

tucker74 · 03-30-04, 01:29 PM

Hey Junk,

Here's a pic Rogue had posted of his lifted in another thread -

Tucker

sjpitts · 03-30-04, 01:42 PM

This looks like a good and easy idea.

But I have a question. When you do this mod, can you still lower the tire with the handcrank in the original fashion?

Are there any downsides to this mod? Does it work with 285/75 tires?

Jared

tucker74 · 03-30-04, 01:52 PM

Jared,

You can still lower the tire as long as you don't go to high w/ the spacers - several members have actually modified the mechanism to go even higher. If I remember right you can go up to a 315/75R16 with this method. Anything bigger than that has to go somewhere else

.

Tucker

MoJ · 03-30-04, 01:56 PM

[quote author=sjpitts link=board=2;threadid=1921;start=msg129631#msg1296 31 date=1080679374]
When you do this mod, can you still lower the tire with the handcrank in the original fashion?

Are there any downsides to this mod? Does it work with 285/75 tires?

Jared
[/quote]

1. Works with handcrank as long as you don't try to raise it too high, you'll see what I mean when you do the mod.
2. No downsides that I've found.
3. Yes, works with 285/75 as well as 305/70

Junk · 03-30-04, 01:58 PM

Kurt - I deleted your post since this is going in the faqs.

landtoy80 · 03-30-04, 02:02 PM

Junk, your just MAD becouse you didn't think of it first.

Rogue · 03-30-04, 02:38 PM

[quote author=tucker74 link=board=2;threadid=1921;start=msg129615#msg1296 15 date=1080678571]

[/quote]

As you can see in the picture, the hardware is rusting and it is getting worse pretty quick. I think I will be looking for another way this summer.

Safado · 03-30-04, 03:37 PM

I think TANK had the right idea with the cast iron pipe...kinda like one of those DIY body lift kits. Stick a fat washer up on top and run the bolt through.

PHAEDRUS · 03-30-04, 04:07 PM

I think stainless hardear and some aluminum sleeving would be ideal and solve the rust issue. otherwise mount it where you want and douse it in undercoating. just make sure you like it there prior to shooting as your threads will be shot.
Dave

sjpitts · 03-30-04, 04:10 PM

Can't you just use galvanized bolts and nuts to stop the rust problem? Or is it zinc coated?

Jared

MoJ · 03-31-04, 06:47 AM

I've done that mod. Drug the spare tire pretty hard last night doing some light after work wheeling. The longer bolts and nuts I'm using for spacers held up well.

Landpimp · 03-31-04, 09:11 AM

Sorry, this is the 1st time I read the thread. Dont know where my pics are. But I think I used 3 or 4 nuts(3/4"?) on each, raised it up as high as I could before I couldn't use the hand crank to get the tire down.

John H

[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=1921;start=msg129604#msg1296 04 date=1080677861]
Hey Pimp,

How about adding a pic or two of your mod so this can be added to the FAQ's? I'm putting you to work dude

[/quote]

Riley · 04-01-04, 10:18 PM

Does the spare tire crank suck for everyone?

I did this mod in the first few months of ownership and had never lowered the spare much beforehand (probably only once

) ..... but I find the crank thing really sucks. As I think ahead to running 2 sets of tires, I cringe everytime I think about changing the spare. The 4 wheels are easy compared to the spare

Any suggestions to getting the crank held in place?

Riley

stevezero · 03-13-07, 09:18 AM

I used 2 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 90mm bolts to raise mine. I used 2 inch x 1/2 inch cast iron pipe nipples with 80mm bolts to lower the crank(the hardware store didnt have any more 90mm bolts). Home Depot and Lowes only went up to 60mm bolts.

You wont be able to go up over 2 1/2 inches. The rear part of the tire hits a brace in the back near the bumper. It does tuck the front up quite a bit though.

syrinxstar · 03-13-07, 10:43 AM

Thanks for dragging this up Steve - it's been on my list for a long time. How many of each length pipe do you need for this?

stevezero · 03-13-07, 11:14 AM

6 for the bracket , 4 for the spare winch.

bolts will all be 8mm x 1.25mm x length

They did have the pipe nipples at Lowes.

Be prepared for a lot of crap to fall down from the bracket. It accumulates alot of dirt over the years.

Lugboot · 04-13-07, 10:23 AM

Any newer pics of this to add to this thread? I either see nothing or the infamous red X.