High output (170amp) bolt on alternator, anyone try it yet?

[firetruck41]

Has anyone tried this high output bolt on nippendendso alternator yet? Supposed to work for 93+ 80 series.

[firetruck41]

No one? Any body know anything about it?

[mot]

Ben,

Do you know if this unit robs anymore power over the stock unit?

[NaterGator]

It must if it actually produces the amperage it claims to (and you draw the power)

I'm sure you know this anyways, but as the alternator is loaded (and provides more current) the windings are torqued opposing the rotation of the motor. The amount of torque is proportional to the amount of current you draw.

[mot]

Thanks, Nate.

I was just wondering how much (if any) it would affect fuel efficiencty, as well as drivability, idling, etc...

[NaterGator]

I'd wager it'd be about as bad as modifying the fan clutch with the 6k fluid... probably ~5hp.

[firetruck41]

Good points, I didn't really think about that. I can't see needing that amount of power for a long time, but if I ever needed to replace the current alt, I would probably go this route.

[mot]

Nate,

Can you slap one on and dyno it and tell us what you find out?

[teleguy11@yahoo.com]

I'm curious to see the dyno results as well. I'm getting tired of my headlights dimming when my subwoofer kicks to the beat.

[nuclearlemon]

higher output means cramming more into the same case, which means weaker, more chance of something internal going wrong.

[Uncle Ben]

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

higher output means cramming more into the same case, which means weaker, more chance of something internal going wrong.

Possibly but not absolute. Creating more efficiency doesn't make it weaker but it does create more heat. Has the case been ported and the cooling fan been upgraded as well?
I am running the Mean Green 130 amp alt and it actually runs cooler than the stock one did as checked by infrared temp gun. This is a great upgrade and price if it actually is all that is claimed!

[NaterGator]

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

higher output means cramming more into the same case, which means weaker, more chance of something internal going wrong.

Could honestly just be a better design with tighter tolerances and a better design on the windings (with, of course, more turns) and it probably has a slight underdrive pulley.

Haha no I'm not going to dyno it you toothless Japanese redneck There was something I read online that every 20a = 1hp, so it would be up there... I suspect the losses are a little more though. If you need it, you need it and you won't notice those few HP gone. Advance your timing a little and run better gas, or get landtank's MAF to offset the loss or something. You'll survive

[NaterGator]

Originally Posted by Uncle Ben

Possibly but not absolute. Creating more efficiency doesn't make it weaker but it does create more heat. Has the case been ported and the cooling fan been upgraded as well?
I am running the Mean Green 130 amp alt and it actually runs cooler than the stock one did as checked by infrared temp gun. This is a great upgrade and price if it actually is all that is claimed!

No offense meant, but mean green alts are generally considered to be ripoffs. Ohio Generator company will rewind your alternator for max output if you send it to them (and alot of people like the results) and I've heard good things about dominick iraggi, although I have heard his quality may be fading as he tries to meet increasing demand.

[Uncle Ben]

Originally Posted by NaterGator

No offense meant, but mean green alts are generally considered to be ripoffs. Ohio Generator company will rewind your alternator for max output if you send it to them (and alot of people like the results) and I've heard good things about dominick iraggi, although I have heard his quality may be fading as he tries to meet increasing demand.

No offense taken! There are two grades of Mean Green Alts. new or rebuilt....you will get what you pay for! 170 amps from a stock 90 amp case is questionable too....no offense meant.

[wierdbeard]

Has anyone here tried one of these yet?

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by wierdbeard

Has anyone here tried one of these yet?

X2 ... I'm interested too ..

[concretejungle]

well, in the link he didn't exactly answer many of the questions.

I'm just trying to figure this whole alternator thing out....

Why would photoman/bjowett advocate a mounting bracket to mount a stock tundra alternator that pushes more power when you could just mount a rewound one right in place? There has to be a reason. Some folk say the rewounds run hotter, are more likely to fail, have more resistance thus produces more pull on the motor????

So what's the story here? I have photoman's mounting bracket on my workbench. I also have a local friend that rewinds alternators. I'm torn on what to do here?????

[WarDamnEagle]

Several guys on Yotatech seem to have had good luck with this company:

Boyle Future Technology
12325 Locksley Lane, Auburn, CA 95602
phone: (530) 888-6290

Here is a link to one of the threads suggesting them:

Question about high output Alternators. - YotaTech Forums

I haven't pursued this avenue yet but might for my OEM 22RE alternator. Might also be a good option for an 80.

[Brian894X4]

I considered a HO or rewound alternator for my 22RE in my truck. In the end, the guys at a good home based alternator shop told me the problem with rewinding a stock Toyota alternator is that you can't increase the number diodes to compensate and they will run hotter and wear out faster. They also said that power output will be less at idle than stock, but more at higher rpms. That's the two trade offs.

I later had NW Wrangler custom build me a new alternator from the ground up. They used a larger Nippondenso case from a Toyota forklift and put in all new parts for a factory reliable 150 amps. That project also cost me upwards of $600

Prior to that, I had two alternators in my truck. The 2nd one was a AC Delco alternator modified for 150 amps. Several years later the case on that alternator snapped in two.

When I got my 80 I wasn't sure what I was going to do.
.
Photoman's bracket is the end all deal for our 80s and after installing it and the alternator, everything else is just a waste of time and money....

For me, the total cost was under $200 and that included a 2004 Sequoia 150 amp alternator with only 14K miles on it.

In the end, what you get is a completely unaltered, toyota OEM alternator that was made in Japan, but really makes 150 amps maximum and a lot more than stock at idle. These alternators can be had in wrecking yards all over the country for around $100 or sometimes even less.

The bottom line is that you can go modified and hope for the best or you can go OEM and never have to think about it and still get 150 amps. That's the advantage.

[concretejungle]

thank you Brian. That was exactly what i needed to hear.

[robmir]

Besides all the facts posted here, I will add that I wouldn't waste any cent on ANY upgraded alternator no matter who makes them if they still use the OEM small case.

Powermaster, NW Wrangler and some others use a way bigger ND case for their special HO alternators which came with a higher capacity diode plate and can disipate the heat better and isn't taxed by the limited temp disipation of the smaller 80 series OEM diameter case.

My 170 amp Powermaster has been worked flawlessly for more than 4 years before it give up (under extreme load with my 3 battery setup), but I had to replace only the front and rear bearings and the rectifier plate and it's again working great.

As I am aware the Toyota Tundra and Sienna OEM 150 amp ND available in the junkyards relays in the same bigger case.

It's also important to understand that any alternator no matter for which output capacity is rated, will draw the same HP from the engine at the same required load in amps. In short words a higher capacity alternator of course will draw more HP but only if you demand more current from it, and has nothing to do with fuel economy etc, is just related on how many amps you need.

The more amps you require, the more HP will draw so if your battery is charged and you have most of your electric equipment off, the HO alternator will tax your motor exactly the same as the Toyota 80 amp OEM alternator.

Just to clear this urban mith.

[concretejungle]

even more good stuff. thanks man! now i know i made the right choice getting that bracket from photoman!

[NLXTACY]

Hey CONCRETEJUNGLE, DO NOT fret your decision to go with PHOTOMAN's alt bracket. I've done alt rewinds twice before. Once for a 22RE in a 79 4WD PUP and the other in a 4Runner. Neither was able to produce what the alt shop thought they could get out of it and the one for the 4Runner overheated three different times. They said that the case was just not designed for it.

Now using the 05 Sequoia 150A alternator, that is DESIGNED to put out 150A, with PHOTOMAN's stupid simple alt bracket IS the way to go. Risk of overheating, low. Risk of reduced HP, low, Risk of not getting full amperage, low. Risk of overheating stock wiring unless you swap out to larger gauge wire.....ummm probably high which is why I'm changing it.

[NLXTACY]

And for those who say there was no 22RE in a 79 4WD PUP, well it does when its a 22R block bored .80 over with 22RE dome heads to help support my Camden S/C. Man I miss that truck.


sad panda

[FJ40_owner]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Hey CONCRETEJUNGLE, DO NOT fret your decision to go with PHOTOMAN's alt bracket. I've done alt rewinds twice before. Once for a 22RE