REAL TIME HELP: Stripped bolt removal

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 10:24 AM

Hey guys, I removed the transmission drain plug to do my first ATF drain and fill. All was going well until I went to button it back up and the drain plug just started spinning in place. I was using a 14mm socket and going to torque to 15 ft/lbs but never made it that far. Any advice on getting that bolt back out? Thanks in advance. Jeff

Doc · 07-25-07, 10:25 AM

Flat blade screw driver under bolt head and pry up as you turn out.

Then tap for the next size up.

EricE · 07-25-07, 10:25 AM

Are the threads stripped or is the head of the bolt stripped?

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 10:26 AM

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 10:26 AM

I believe it's the threads that are stripped.

Doc · 07-25-07, 10:28 AM

Once you get it out, inspect the threads on the bolt carefully to determine if it's the hole or the bolt that is stripped. If it's the bolt, just get a new bolt. More than likely it's the hole, which means tap time.

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 10:29 AM

It's always the greater of the evils with me.

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 10:31 AM

Thanks for the replies, I'm going out to give it a shot now.

Buckru · 07-25-07, 11:08 AM

I just got off the phone with Jeff (hfd crusher) and he is having a hard time getting the bolt back out. The bolt head is not stripped, just spinning in place. I have a spare oil pan bolt in case it is the bolt that is stripped. Can anyone confirm if the oil pan bolt is the same as the tranny pan bolt?

I will be going over after work to help. Neither of us have tapped a bolt hole. Is this difficult to do? When you buy a tap, do you then find a bolt that is equivilent to the tap or do you find a specific magnetised tranny bolt and then match a tap to that?

Jeff is a good guy and has had HELL with bringing his new to him 80 up to spec. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Buck Buchanan

stayalert · 07-25-07, 11:15 AM

time for a simultaneous pull/turn with vice grips?

Buckru · 07-25-07, 11:23 AM

I did a quick search and came with Helicoil hits. Would this be a good way to approach this? Also, if it comes down to a retap or helicoil, do you need to remove the tranny pan or can this be done with the pan in place?

Buck Buchanan

Tools R Us · 07-25-07, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckru

... The bolt head is not stripped, just spinning in place. ...

Buck Buchanan

I have never had an 80 A/T pan off, but have had this problem with other Toyota pans. The threads that the plug screws into are a sheet metal "nut" that's spot welded to the pan, the welds sometimes fail allowing the nut to spin. My fix is to drop the pan, hold the nut with pliers, tighten the plug to hold it square, put a couple of new tack welds, clean up and install.

Doc · 07-25-07, 11:40 AM

I wouldn't use a helicoil in this situation, I think the metal may be too thin for it to be of much use.

Buckru · 07-25-07, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

I have never had an 80 A/T pan off, but have had this problem with other Toyota pans. The threads that the plug screws into are a sheet metal "nut" that's spot welded to the pan, the welds sometimes fail allowing the nut to spin. My fix is to drop the pan, hold the nut with pliers, tighten the plug to hold it square, put a couple of new tack welds, clean up and install.

Kevin,

If this is the case, neither of us are welders nor have the equipment. Can we use jb weld in this application?

Also, can anyone confirm that there is a tack welded nut on the inside? I was doing some searches for Jeff and haven't found the answer to this.

Buck Buchanan

DanKunz · 07-25-07, 12:05 PM

X2 it is already drained so the pan can be dropped, clean the screen while you are in there, and then sort out the bolt. A few new tack welds can be the best best since it would require 1 minute with a welder (on the nice, transportable pan) vs. trying to tap, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

I have never had an 80 A/T pan off, but have had this problem with other Toyota pans. The threads that the plug screws into are a sheet metal "nut" that's spot welded to the pan, the welds sometimes fail allowing the nut to spin. My fix is to drop the pan, hold the nut with pliers, tighten the plug to hold it square, put a couple of new tack welds, clean up and install.

DanKunz · 07-25-07, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckru

Kevin,

If this is the case, neither of us are welders nor have the equipment. Can we use jb weld in this application?

Also, can anyone confirm that there is a tack welded nut on the inside? I was doing some searches for Jeff and haven't found the answer to this.

Buck Buchanan

either way the pan is easily removed at this point and you can do a better job on a bench, at a shop with a welder (pay an exhaut guy $5 to tack if it is a nut) and generally get a better result.

Buckru · 07-25-07, 12:17 PM

Looks like this will be our approach.

Is there anything to be on the lookout for when dropping the trans. pan? I thought I read something about the dipstick O ring. I am at the office and have no access to my fsm at the moment.

Buck Buchanan

hfd crusher · 07-25-07, 12:56 PM

Thanks Buck and everyone else, it sounds like we're gonna be dropping the pan so I'm off to Toyota to get the gasket material. I appreciate everyone's input. Jeff

Photoman · 07-25-07, 01:01 PM

This is a picture on the drain plug where it comes into the pan. As you can see Toyota just put like a nutsert in there for the plug to go into which can end up spinning.
The dipstick tube is in two pieces. The o-ring just seals the two pieces together. You may need to loosen the bolt that holds the upper part to help wiggle the tube apart and pan down. It may take a little work to cut the goop that seals the pan to the case.

Bill

gotmud · 07-25-07, 01:28 PM

Find someone that can weld. Then on the way home, stop by Sears, Harbor Freight, etc...and pick a small wire feed welder. Even a cheap machine is indispensable