LSPV Adjustment with Pictures

ed97fzj80 · 07-10-07, 09:35 AM

Hi all. The LSPV adjustment is a topic that seems to come up pretty often, so when I was doing mine I took some photos for posting here.

Credit where credit is due -- searching for LSPV will lead to a post by Hayes in which the 'mud community explains how to do this. Maybe I'm dense, but I still felt some pictures would help, so here they are with a simple step-by-step. Hopefully fellow one-

driveway mechs will find it helpful.

The LSPV is most easily accessed by removing the left rear wheel. It's held to a bracket the frame, in front of the shock, by two studs that pass through an oval slot, and secured there by two nuts.

Common wisdom is to move it down 1/4" for the OME Heavy lift. I used a Sharpie to mark the current location of the LSPV, the desired location, and the LSPV itself.

I also marked the back side so as to keep the same horizontal orientation. I don't know if it matters, but it seems like it can't hurt.

Anyway, loosen those two nuts a bit and slide the LSPV down until the marks line up. Tighten it back down and it's done.

That's really all there is to it. In hindsight it's one of the simpler things there is to do.

Montana Cruiser · 07-10-07, 09:43 AM

What lift are you running? How much real world lift did you gain? These are factors.

ed97fzj80 · 07-10-07, 09:48 AM

OME heavy, first post edited for clarity. If you have the numbers for other lifts, posting them would be helpful.

e9999 · 07-10-07, 09:49 AM

there were threads where the desired adjustment was calculated as a function of lift etc with the lever arms length and all that.

Tapage · 07-10-07, 10:14 AM

thanks for your time to post it dude ..

Mikey · 07-10-07, 12:42 PM

Thanks for the post

hill · 07-11-07, 07:17 AM

what is the measurement for moving the LSVP if you have medium springs?

ed97fzj80 · 07-11-07, 08:32 AM

Hill,

Look here, especially at posts 4 and 6.

Ed

CJF · 07-11-07, 09:45 AM

FAQ worthy??

Seems like it might be...

ERG80 · 10-07-07, 03:49 PM

I messed up the threads on one of the bolts that attaches the LSPV to the frame bracket and now the nut wont thread on. the other bolt is fine. Is one bolt enough to keep it secure/safe?

JerseyCruiser · 10-07-07, 06:14 PM

Looks real easy to bad mine is rusted to hell! I got the nuts loose but the two bolts from the adjusting bracket are sized into the valve housing, more PB Blasters or a new bracket.

wfd175 · 10-07-07, 07:30 PM

I had to soak my nuts for almost a week to get my LSPV adjusted.

Based on my farm experience, if the box end wrench slips off once, use the penetrant, wait, then switch to a 6 pt socket, if it wont' turn, spray again and wait. Heating bolts up often helps, but because of the valve parts etc... heat shouldn't be applied. IMO you are extremely lucky if you get LSPV nuts loose on the first try.

wildsmith · 10-10-07, 03:48 PM

On my very heavy lifted 80 I couldn't get enough adjustment on the LSPV to get the brake balance right. Thinking about it, the rate of adjustment it gives is based on stock spring rates not uprated. So if you're running heavies then even if you reposition the LSPV and associated hardware to account for the amount of lift you still haven't accounted for the increased spring rate. If you put 250Kg in the back heavies won't drop as much as stock springs but you still need the bias that you'd get with stock springs for 250Kg...

I ended up cutting the rod that goes to the axle so just a small length sticks out of the LSPV and adjust it manually till I'm happy with the balance and forget about automating it.

vkfzj80 · 10-10-07, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ed97fzj80

That's really all there is to it. In hindsight it's one of the simpler things there is to do.

this statement is true with the assumption that the bolts are not rusted solid to the LSPV and it will move, other wise there is much work involved (ask me how I know

)

roncruiser · 10-30-07, 09:59 AM

Please repost the pics. Looking forward to doing mine.

Romer · 07-24-08, 07:51 PM

So I am a little slow, did this mod in 5 minutes, but marked it from the other side and left the rear driver tire on. Great modification

ed97fzj80 · 07-24-08, 08:51 PM

Did it make a discernible difference? Did you go through the gyrations of calculating the amount of movement, or did you just go for a quarter inch and call it good?

Since I did this writeup I've taken the OMEs off and gone back to stock. I'm really glad I marked the original position; it made going back to stock really easy, and it would also have served as a zero point for changing lifts.

Romer · 07-24-08, 09:12 PM

I just did the .25" as my lift is more than medium to see if I could tell the difference and I could. I may tweak it more later

HomersCanyonero · 09-28-08, 09:08 AM

Wow. My bolts weren't rusted at all and they loosened on my first try. I didn't remove the rear tire either.

It took me about 2 minutes to mark the location with a sharpie, loosen the bolts, push the LSVP down 1/4", and tighten the bolts.

The pictures by ed97 were extremely helpful in locating the LSVP and figuring out which bolts to loosen.

I'm not sure why pushing the LSVP helps, but after the lift (heavy front, med rear) my brakes didn't seem balanced and my rear brakes started making noise after a couple months.

So, I decided to give this a try and now the rear brakes appear to engage more appropriately. Noise went away for now, but I also need to check if I need new rear brake pads.

azTony · 10-11-10, 06:47 PM

So this gives adjustments for when you add the lift. How do I know if mine was adjusted when the previous owner installed the lift? Are there adjustment procedures for this? Unless I missed something this is all based on the known position of the existing LSPV, the known difference in lift, subtract the difference of the 2 and adjust accordingly.

Let's say the bolt rusts off and it has to be replaced. How do you adjust it?