Front Rotors - Dealership

Mars · 06-29-07, 10:46 AM

So I have a 1993 80, I'm at about 198,000 on the clock. Its on 33" Revo's, and other than that its basically stock.

Ten thousand miles ago, and one year ago (to the week), I had my brakes replaced at the dealership. I'm about a 1-2

kinda guy, and didn't have the time to tackle it myself. Rotors were scarred badly front and rears, and I paid a ridiculous amount from a local dealership to have them replaced. I bit the bullet and paid the cash. Just didn't have the time to do it myself.

So here I am, one year later. Three days ago I started hearing some grinding coming from the front rotors again, not good. I take it in to the same dealer again, and question why the pads are toast so soon. He blows some smoke at me about aggressive driving, hills, offroading, and big tires all increase pad wear, etc.

Question is, what is the normal brake pad replacement interval for you guys? After 10k miles, and one year of mostly commuting through flat Las Vegas, should my front brake pads be toast? Is there anything that I could investigate that could have lead to premature pad failure from the previous replacement?

They are quoting me another ridiculous sum to fix the issue, and I'd like to have some backup when I go back into the dealership!

tech_dog · 06-29-07, 11:01 AM

Front pads can go pretty quick.

10K may be a bit on the short side, but not by all that much. He's right about that list of things causing pads to wear quicker.

LC's are notorious for eating front brakes.

T.

Mars · 06-29-07, 11:05 AM

Does anybody have a parts list for a front rotor/pads replacement?

I've read that the inner axle seal gets left out on occasion, is there anything else I should check for from these guys?

Cruiserdrew · 06-29-07, 11:17 AM

Mars-Replacing the front pads is cheap and easy. If they are all worn more or less symetrically, I would toss in a new set of pads and go. That seriously is a 15 minute job. You likely do not need to get the rotors re-machined.

10k miles is pretty short-makes sure none of the pads are the victim of a stuck caliper piston.

You can use 100 series pads in place of 80 series pads. They do work better and they last longer in my experience.

Mars · 06-29-07, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Mars-Replacing the front pads is cheap and easy. If they are all worn more or less symetrically, I would toss in a new set of pads and go. That seriously is a 15 minute job. You likely do not need to get the rotors re-machined.

10k miles is pretty short-makes sure none of the pads are the victim of a stuck caliper piston.

You can use 100 series pads in place of 80 series pads. They do work better and they last longer in my experience.

The front rotors are gouged fairly seriously, at least on the drivers side. I should have checked it out immediately, but I was on a trip where I had to drive another couple hundred miles before I could do something about it. They are scarred bad enough that I'm sure they need replacement. I won't let that happen again.

Darwood · 06-29-07, 11:26 AM

My 100 series pads lasted longer than my rear pads. Had the rear pads wear through in about 30k miles (which meant new rear rotors

). The front pads are still good. I've adjusted my lspv since then. I think it was a bit too aggressive.

EricE · 06-29-07, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mars

The front rotors are gouged fairly seriously, at least on the drivers side. I should have checked it out immediately, but I was on a trip where I had to drive another couple hundred miles before I could do something about it. They are scarred bad enough that I'm sure they need replacement. I won't let that happen again.

its up to you. I NEVER turn my rotors. Mine have fairly sever grooving over the whole pad contact surface. The grooving was much worse a couple of years ago. Normal wear has smoothed that out some.
What is the worst that can happen...oh yeah, my pads will wear faster. A 30min job of replacing them. The thing is, I am averaging 30K between pads.
Having your rotors turned down all the time thins them out which makes them a smaller heat sink which makes brake fade happen faster. I would rather have a big heat sink there.

Edit: if they are not worn even side to side I would not just leave it though. You don't want a sever pull to one side when braking.

Grench · 06-29-07, 01:31 PM

I was getting 10-12K per set of auto parts store cheap pads on the '92 we used to have. The '96s have proven much better for it, but I've also converted both of them to 100 pads with new rotors.

They're brakes, not rocket science. That said, if you don't know what you're doing, find someone who does. Even if you have to pay them.

Have you done a front end repack yet? If you're doing the rotors, you're 75% of the way there. Some say 50%, but I'm a slow wrench.

YMMV

wfd175 · 06-29-07, 01:43 PM

Right at about 20k is what I get out of a set of front OEM pads. Been that way the last 3 sets.

tech_dog · 06-29-07, 03:06 PM

I get 10K-15K with OEM pads, but some of what I do is hard on brakes.

Brentbba · 06-29-07, 04:49 PM

Brand new rotors and 10K on the pads and the rotors are scarred badly? That could be a more serious issue. 10K on the 80 series pads is a little on the short side. I usually get 15K with 33's. A set of front rotors should last you 90-100K easy. If I can change front pads - anyone can. Just ask Cruiserdrew about my mechanical skills...and I learned! I figure I save about $200 every time I change the front pads vs. what the dealer charges.