Removing OEM roof-rack "cross-members" w/o...

IronYuppy · 06-09-07, 08:22 AM

... without removing the main roof-rack rails?

I ask because the screws that hold the rack to the roof are seized and stripped; drilling them out is the only option. I use my rack sometimes, so I would like to leave the sides on, and I want to retain the apparently good waterproof seal between the rack and the roof.

Why do I want to remove the cross-pieces? Because I lifted my truck and now it ju-u-u-u-st fits in my parking garage. But the arched roof rack rails hit the "low ceiling" sign on the way in

.

PS No, I can't raise the sign. I already thought of that.

cruiserdan · 06-09-07, 08:28 AM

The cross bars are installed from the end of the main rail so you have to remove one of the feet from the side rail to get the cross bar out.

Oh if "the apparently good waterproof seal between the rack and the roof" was really that, it wouldn't be all rusty.....................

IronYuppy · 06-09-07, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Oh if "the apparently good waterproof seal between the rack and the roof" was really that, it wouldn't be all rusty.....................

True dat.

I'll try plan B, which is bending the cross-pieces downward a little with a MFH. It's that close.

cruiserdan · 06-09-07, 08:41 AM

You might try this:

First I don't know if it will work so approach with care.

There is a screw in the bottom of the cross bar where it attaches to the bracket that slides in the rail. Remove the screws from both ends of the bar and slide the bar in a diagonal and see if you can work an end loose, leaving the brackets in the rail.

IronYuppy · 06-09-07, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

You might try this:

First I don't know if it will work so approach with care.

There is a screw in the bottom of the cross bar where it attaches to the bracket that slides in the rail. Remove the screws from both ends of the bar and slide the bar in a diagonal and see if you can work an end loose, leaving the brackets in the rail.

Yeah. I saw that, but it was dark. I couldn't tell if it was an allen fitting or what. I'll have another look....

CodyRx7 · 06-09-07, 11:16 AM

Do you have stinkbug?

Maybe you can just slide both crossbar rails forward to clear?

Beowulf · 06-09-07, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IronYuppy

True dat.

I'll try plan B, which is bending the cross-pieces downward a little with a MFH. It's that close.

Air down before you go into the garage and air up after you leave. An OBA and CTIS system helps.

-B-

IronYuppy · 06-09-07, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Air down before you go into the garage and air up after you leave. An OBA and CTIS system helps.

-B-

I knew I could count on you for a simple and cost-effective solution!

IronYuppy · 06-09-07, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CodyRx7

Do you have stinkbug?

Maybe you can just slide both crossbar rails forward to clear?

I did that, and it still catches the sign, but only slightly.

The sign is on a chain, so tonight after everybody is in bed I'm going to go down and raise the sign by one link............

stevezero · 06-10-07, 08:45 AM

I just removed my factory rack last night....herculining the 4 pads now(1st coat is curing now, second coat begins in an hour). 5 our of 8 rivserts were frozen to the bolts and spinning. You can take a sharp blade on a utility knife and cut the plastic/rubber base caps out from underneath the roof rack. Then you can get at the rivnuts with a hacksaw. The rivnuts will cut easily, the bolts frozen inside the rivnuts are a but more interesting, but not impossible. Careful angles with the hacksaw will keep the paint safe. I took a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut down the remaining height on the rivnuts. Followed that up with a 60 grit sanding wheel to make em as smooth as possible, and a wire brush in the dremel to remove any surface rust.

Masked off the area to be herculined, and sanded the areas with 100 grit sandpaper to give it some tack. Wiped it clean with MEK (they say you can use MEK to clean/prep, but not to reduce the herculiner). Stuck some metal tape (with some flexible adhesive molded into the tape) to cover the rivnut/holes.

I bought a quart of herculiner for 29.95 at my local auto parts place. A $4.00 foam roller trim tray kit with extra foam rollers, a $1.00 brush, $6.00 metal tape roll, and some masking tape from home depot.

Getting the rivnuts out isnt that big a deal, as long as you dont get too aggressive and scratch the paint you dont want to cover.

I'll have 4 black pads, but they will be watertight,and no rust...I didnt remove the small strips that run in between the rack. I'll do those once I get my new rack ready to go on.

PS: one of my rear plastic mounts was cracked at the joint to the bar that runs from front to back....Another reason to get rid of them......

Brian Macgyver · 06-11-07, 10:50 PM

I would get it off if you can. I just went to Vegas and only found two garages that I could park in with a 3" lift and 315's. At Ceaser's I had to open the sunroof and look at every beam as they went by not more than 2" above the front of the roof! That's why they make Soft 'n Dry! I was nervous.

IronYuppy · 06-12-07, 12:12 AM

Well here's something funny.... I "whacked" the sign pretty hard and decided "screw it I'm taking the whole damned thing off". I guess a few recent bashes to the rack loosened the screws a little bit, because they all came out with very little effort. Even the ones with the stripped heads had enough "grip" that I managed to extract them. So I ended up with eight perfect nutserts. For the time-being, I have them plugged with some black plastic screw-caps glued on with rubber cement. What I might do is coat the four pads with herculiner when I do the fenders. In that scenario, I could still screw the rack back in place if I wanted to.

Sackman · 06-12-07, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IronYuppy

I did that, and it still catches the sign, but only slightly.

The sign is on a chain, so tonight after everybody is in bed I'm going to go down and raise the sign by one link............

X2 You shouldn't have to change the rest of the world should change for you. haha but, thats what I would prolly do too

MARLIN375 · 10-19-07, 05:14 PM

So off-hand does anyone know what size the stock screws are so I can buy some nice stainless ones to fill the holes in the roof ?

I found it...but i can't figure out how to put the link in here

M5 X 16 stainless cap screws
#10 stainless rosette "finishing" washers
and O-rings that fit in the washer dome
and I am using a little black sikaflex to seal them up.

sandcruiser · 10-19-07, 05:55 PM

just type the link in as it appears in your browser, people can cut n paste

gray · 10-19-07, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevezero

I just removed my factory rack last night....herculining the 4 pads now(1st coat is curing now, second coat begins in an hour). 5 our of 8 rivserts were frozen to the bolts and spinning. You can take a sharp blade on a utility knife and cut the plastic/rubber base caps out from underneath the roof rack. Then you can get at the rivnuts with a hacksaw. The rivnuts will cut easily, the bolts frozen inside the rivnuts are a but more interesting, but not impossible. Careful angles with the hacksaw will keep the paint safe. I took a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut down the remaining height on the rivnuts. Followed that up with a 60 grit sanding wheel to make em as smooth as possible, and a wire brush in the dremel to remove any surface rust.

Masked off the area to be herculined, and sanded the areas with 100 grit sandpaper to give it some tack. Wiped it clean with MEK (they say you can use MEK to clean/prep, but not to reduce the herculiner). Stuck some metal tape (with some flexible adhesive molded into the tape) to cover the rivnut/holes.

I bought a quart of herculiner for 29.95 at my local auto parts place. A $4.00 foam roller trim tray kit with extra foam rollers, a $1.00 brush, $6.00 metal tape roll, and some masking tape from home depot.

Getting the rivnuts out isnt that big a deal, as long as you dont get too aggressive and scratch the paint you dont want to cover.

I'll have 4 black pads, but they will be watertight,and no rust...I didnt remove the small strips that run in between the rack. I'll do those once I get my new rack ready to go on.

PS: one of my rear plastic mounts was cracked at the joint to the bar that runs from front to back....Another reason to get rid of them......

Got any photos to post??
g

zcruiser · 10-20-07, 05:34 PM

If you don't want to save the rails just cut 'em.

Atoyot1031 · 10-20-07, 09:11 PM

I've said it before and I'll say it again...

"CUT OFF ALL OF THE DAMN FACTORY RUST MAKERS!!!"

I tried to tighten mine down, etc. and when I finally got them off, I was blown away by how much damage they had caused!

I love Mr. T., but he F'd up on this idea (and the exhaust routing

). So just cut it, fill it, and build yourself a rack that suits your needs. Their are plenty of low-budget easy racks out there. Check out mine for instance, and I'm just a simple caveman...

Roof rack build

stevezero · 10-22-07, 07:42 AM

I dont have any pics of the surgery, it was one of those mods that started about 6:30PM, and went into darkness......it then became a mission to get it done before sunday afternoon was gone....I'll try to take some pics of the completed herculiner job.