OEM Sub Tank or Aux Fuel Tank setups - For FAQ

Cruiserdrew · 09-28-07, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Cover that hole with something Andy so that the floor member does not fill up with water or debris. Mice will get in there too.

Remember there is already a 14mm hole right there! I am going to weld an 1/8 plate over it tomorrow. I was just sick of fawking with it today.

Romer · 09-28-07, 09:42 PM

I just welded it there. I can get the tank out as long as the ones near the rear crossmember have rivnuts/bolts. I could then have the empty brackets or with a die grinder, take it out later. Thats what I had to do as the first time I welded it, I had the brackets in the wrong spot.

cpg · 09-29-07, 09:31 AM

Here is a pic of the tool I used for the riv nut under the frame.
It is a long thin piece of metal (simpson strong tie from home depot)with the bolt OD diameter drilled thru one of the existing smaller holes.

It worked as a handle to hold the riv nut in place as you wrench it down.

You should put some grease or oil on the bolt to help it tighten without spinning the riv nut. You could also use a thin lock washer between the riv nut and metal if needed.

Also here is a pic of the Y fitting for the fill hose from the sub tank.
With a T in there Fuel was almost coming out of the filler neck. It was working but just wanted to make it a little cleaner.

Romer · 09-29-07, 09:34 AM

Do you have a part number and website for that T fitting?

cpg · 09-29-07, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romer

Do you have a part number and website for that T fitting?

http://www.eldonjames.com/html/Autom...L/BN_ycon.html

The Black Nylon is for fuel.

Romer · 09-29-07, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpg

http://www.eldonjames.com/html/Autom...L/BN_ycon.html

The Black Nylon is for fuel.

Thanks that picture did not look like black nylon. I think we had the link for the black nylon earlier.

Cruiserdrew · 11-30-07, 03:51 PM

Finally, the subtank install is done! I started the project in September when Ali was here to do Rubicon. He brought me the nutsert tool to get started with the tank mounting. This is after 2 years of collecting parts, including the tank from dclee, the switch from Christo (the last one) and the electronic module from George Scolaro.

As anyone who has done this can tell you, there are lots of tiny details that are critical to the eventual operation of this mod. The one I struggled with was which wire from the sender carries the empty signal? It turns out, there are several versions of the sender with different colored wires. George shows it as red, Mangler has yellow with a blue stripe. Mine had both! To make a long story short, Mangler was right-it's yellow with a blue stripe. On some it is yellow with a green stripe. The wiring is the biggest PIA of this project.

George was very helpful to me and tolerated several phone calls from me trying to get things straight. So George-If you see this, thank you for your assistance. Speaking of which, George's module ROCKS. THat's the best $25 I've spent since I bought his LED lights. If you are doing this swap, you want George's module. Unlike some, I kept all the wiring and the module behind the dash. It fit and there is a nice spot above the ashtray and below the radio box.

So yesterday, I finished, filled the subtank, hit the button and........nothing. Zilch, Nada. Damn. It was too dark to tear the dash apart again. So I slept on it. Today, I tore the dash apart again. Just for grins, I tested the main power supply----no power. Yippy, problem found on first attempt. I chased that down to a bad fuse, replaced, hit the switch and the pump started humming. I could actually hear the gas trickling into the main tank. I sat under the truck to make sure it would shut off at the end, and right on schedule (about 25 minutes) it shut off. I am in business.

I'm posting this to thank George, Romer, and Boston Mangler who all answered questions and PMs to help this electrically challenged newbie through the process. I also want to thank Cruiserdan for getting me all the parts and helping me figure out the connectors and how they come apart. Ali was a big help as well with the proper Rivnut tool and encouragement of the electrically challenged.

FirstToy · 11-30-07, 04:06 PM

congrats andy, no more jerry cans for you! i guess you will test those rivnuts at DV!

Cruiserdrew · 11-30-07, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FirstToy

congrats andy, no more jerry cans for you! i guess you will test those rivnuts at DV!

Indeed I will. The easy riv nuts in the rear body rib are solid. I'm not worried about those. The really hard one has been superceeded by a real nut and bolt. The only one that could be a problem is the driver's side forward one. I think I got it very solid.

I found out the subtank from dead empty holds 14.5 gallons. That gives me 40 gallons on board which should be plenty for DV. I can't wait for my first $200 fill up.

4x4CPOSEADOG · 11-30-07, 05:18 PM

Andy,

Congrats, I'm going to do the subtank install this springs, right now I'm collecting bits and pieces. What kind of fuel transfer pump did you use, OEM? I maybe giving you a phone call when I'm ready to do mine.

cruiserdan · 11-30-07, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I found out the subtank from dead empty holds 14.5 gallons.

No, it doesn't.

When the neck is switched to fill the sub it does not completely block-off the main neck. Some fuel will divert into the main while you fill the sub. "Pumpable" sub capacity is ~13 US gallons.

If you were to pump it til the shut-off activates and then crawl under it and pull the drain plug you would get ~3 quarts out of the bottom.

Cruiserdrew · 11-30-07, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4CPOSEADOG

Andy,

Congrats, I'm going to do the subtank install this springs, right now I'm collecting bits and pieces. What kind of fuel transfer pump did you use, OEM? I maybe giving you a phone call when I'm ready to do mine.

Feel free to call me, but realize there are REAL experts on this board.

The transfer pump is a good question because fuel pumps are fairly expensive. Mudrak turned me on to this one available anywhere for only $50. It even comes with a clip to attach it to the body.

NAPA Part # P74019 Hecho in USA!

Incidentally, this pump can also be run as a back up to your mechanical pump on a 2F motor, since the pressure output is only 5 psi. I'm going to get another and carry it in my FJ40.

Here is a pic of the pump installed in the factory spot with the clip that comes with it, and a pic of how well the tank tucks into the frame of the truck-I reinstalled the spare tire carrier to act as a skid plate and to keep the tank in place if the riv nuts shake out.

4x4CPOSEADOG · 11-30-07, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cruiserdrew
Feel free to call me, but realize there are REAL experts on this board.

Thanks, I'll pm them too if I have questions. Fuel pump installation is clean, very nice

. Do you also have the overhead fuel gauge with altimeter?

Romer · 12-03-07, 09:20 AM

Nice how you put the spare tire bracket in there for protection. I have the Slee reciever brackets and so wasn't able to do that. It's tucked up there so nice I am not worried about damage.

cpg · 12-03-07, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romer

Nice how you put the spare tire bracket in there for protection. I have the Slee reciever brackets and so wasn't able to do that. It's tucked up there so nice I am not worried about damage.

I like how just in case the rivnut fails you wont have the tank dragging on the road. Great idea Andy.

Romer · 03-29-08, 08:52 AM

Here is El Mariachi's write-up on a subtank install to factory specs. This is different than the other installs described above. Excellent job Jim

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ject-pics.html

Romer · 04-06-08, 08:31 PM

Two more threads needed here for installing the Subtank Overhead Console

Some of us had trouble wiring up the Overhead Console. Here are some solutions and I go with the recommendation to change the bulbs for the gauges before you install it

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...le-wiring.html

I modified my visors to fit with the Console

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...k-console.html

jditom · 04-07-08, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpg

I like how just in case the rivnut fails you wont have the tank dragging on the road. Great idea Andy.

I also thought it was a good idea to put the spare tire bracket back in there for protection. And for support in case of a rivnut failure on the trail. I had Luke do it when his shop installed my 4X4labs rear bumper. You have to shorten the bracket about 1/4 inch on each side to make room for the rear bumper. It was real easy at Luke's shop!