1FZ-FE Head removal

SBFJ60FIG · 03-18-07, 09:03 AM

This may be a really dumb questions that I could confirm just by looking at my motor in about an hour...but can the head be removed from my '97 FJ-80 W/O removal of the camshafts and associated hardware? I suspect they are in the way of the head bolts but I'd really rather leave the valve train intact.

And or is there any reason to take the camshafts out when removing the head if you could leave them in? I'm thinking this is a very long head and even following the de-torquing sequence that there could be some flex that my compromise the cams?????

landtank · 03-18-07, 09:16 AM

cam shafts have to come out to get to the head bolts.

LX_TREME · 03-18-07, 09:25 AM

And get the DVD 1FZ-FE Head removal from member name IdahoDoug to see it.

SBFJ60FIG · 03-18-07, 12:15 PM

Is the DVD on head removal a must-have to do this? I reviewed the procedure in the Haynes manual and though super-long it was really detailed.

It also didn't look like you needed any special tools to do it.

Thanks for the help and advice!

NaterGator · 03-18-07, 12:34 PM

The Haynes manual is not sufficient. Go buy a paper FSM for this, and yes, I would get the HG DVD for practical tips that you won't find elsewhere

landtank · 03-18-07, 03:30 PM

While I think the FSM should be used the DVD isn't a must. I did mine without it.

Did the haynes mention the use of a service screw in the cam gears? Just curious how well the instruction are.

SBFJ60FIG · 03-18-07, 05:38 PM

Actually the Haynes manual is pretty detailed. And yes it does have an illustration of the cam gear (exhaust I think) being locked with a bolt

MSGGrunt · 03-18-07, 05:46 PM

Yes, it did mention the screw Rick. Not that it was probably the best way to approach removing my head, but I did it with just the Haynes manual and didn't have any issues. Other that having to do it outdoors in January in Massachusetts. I must be crazy as I'm going to do the head gasket AGAIN as I kinked the front of the gasket trying to fit the front cover without removing the head and have an oil leak. This time around I'm going with new head bolts as added insurance with my soon to be turbo install. Should be a snap the second time around.

landtank · 03-18-07, 05:59 PM

that's good to know. If they would miss anything I'd think it would be that.

MSGGrunt, have you thought about studs? There was this guy a while ago that had some ridiculous power coming out of a Crown with a blown 1fz-fe in it and he mentioned that one of the Supra stud kists fir the engine. I tried but for the life of me I couldn't find it.

But I suck at the search thing.

SBFJ60FIG · 03-18-07, 07:05 PM

Dude that's crazy doing a head OUTSIDE in MASS in Jan.

Anyway I do bet the supra stud kit would work

check here

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

it's on page 42

medtro · 03-18-07, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landtank

that's good to know. If they would miss anything I'd think it would be that.

MSGGrunt, have you thought about studs? There was this guy a while ago that had some ridiculous power coming out of a Crown with a blown 1fz-fe in it and he mentioned that one of the Supra stud kists fir the engine. I tried but for the life of me I couldn't find it.

But I suck at the search thing.

Is it this one?

landtank · 03-18-07, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medtro

Is it this one?

Yes thanks

aim · 03-19-07, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SBFJ60FIG

Dude that's crazy doing a head OUTSIDE in MASS in Jan.

Anyway I do bet the supra stud kit would work

check here

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

it's on page 42

Not 23-4205 on page 40? Anyhow, has anyone else done it?

MSGGrunt · 03-19-07, 03:09 AM

I thought that the studs would not work on the 1FZ-FE? Something to do with the studs being to tall that the head would hit on the firewall and not leave enough room to slip over the studs. Besides, I already got my new OEM studs from Dan.

landtank · 03-19-07, 05:36 AM

you put the studs in after the head is in place. They have a socket head made for a hex key so they can be tightened down.

aim · 03-19-07, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGGrunt

I thought that the studs would not work on the 1FZ-FE? Something to do with the studs being to tall that the head would hit on the firewall and not leave enough room to slip over the studs. Besides, I already got my new OEM studs from Dan.

OEM *studs*? Or the bolts? Where in Worcter are you? I got my Ph.D. from Clark.

MSGGrunt · 03-19-07, 06:44 PM

I actually moved out of the city and now live in Charlton. Are these studs as good or better than bolts? I think I'll stick with the bolts as I already bought them. I only assumed you would have to install the studs and then the head. I love the little things you learn on this site.

bjowett · 03-19-07, 08:45 PM

The studs fit... maybe someday I'll find out how well they clamp a head down.

SBFJ60FIG · 03-21-07, 12:22 PM

I presume the head bolts are torque-to-yield eh? Any of you guys have much success with re-using them or do you always replace?

MSGGrunt · 03-21-07, 01:22 PM

Yes, they are torque-to-yield. I reused mine when I did my first head gasket and have had no issues to date, but now that I'm doing the head gasket again I am going with all new OEM bolts from Dan.