Any one with experience with a Man-a-Fre 38 gallon tank? (1 Viewer)

[Angel?]

I see a number of mudders installing OEM auxiliary 13 gallon tanks, as well as aftermarket auxiliary 44 gallon long-range tanks. Both appear to have the downside of sourcing used Aussie dual-filler necks, transfer gas pumps, sub-tank gauges and sub-tank cutover switches.

This 38 gallon tank from Man-a-Fre:
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fj80lx450longrangereplacementfueltank.htm

appears, at least on the surface, to have the advantage of fitting where the stock 25 gallon tank fits, and reuses all existing parts without having to source (though I realize sourcing may be part of the fun).

What I do not know is:

1) Will this interfere with bolt-on sliders such as Slee's;

2) Does this hang down too low; and

3) Will the existing tank skid plate work.

Does anyone have any experience with this tank?

Thanks!

Description of tank on the Man-a-Fre website: "Finally a high capacity replacement tank for your FJ80/LX450 that does not require the installation of an auxiliary tank, and associated plumbing. This 38 gallon replacement fuel tank mounts where your OEM tank did originally, and re-uses the OEM sending unit, fuel pump, and filler. Made of high quality aluminized steel, and fully baffled and trapped for off-road use.

Will not fit 1990-1992 FJ80 Land Cruiser."

 

[chibo]

To expand upon this question: Do we really need the aussie dual filler neck, gauges, and other crap? There looks to be a decent amount of space where the stock spare would go and I don't think it'd cost too much to do a 'bare bones' long travel tank setup.

 

[F0RSAKEN]

Why not just get a tire carrier on the rear bumper, and custom weld a tank of your own specified size (fuel cell). Youd have tons of room with the spare gone

 

[robmir]

Why not just get a tire carrier on the rear bumper, and custom weld a tank of your own specified size (fuel cell). Youd have tons of room with the spare gone

You didn´t clear any of Angel serious and logic questions, he is looking for help

 

[robmir]

To expand upon this question: Do we really need the aussie dual filler neck, gauges, and other ****? There looks to be a decent amount of space where the stock spare would go and I don't think it'd cost too much to do a 'bare bones' long travel tank setup.

There is not such us a "bare bones" long travel tank set up

Or you do it well or you don´t. There is no possible compromise, because it´s too much risk at stake.

You must realize there is three very important issues to comply here:

1) Well designed long term heavy duty support of the spare tire

2) Well manufactured Aux tank, it´s filling and a foolproof way of transfering the fuel to the main tank.

3) Rear coils must be replaced to hold the new extra load.


I installed several aux tanks in the past and neither of our jobs taked more than a couple of days because we sourced all the related parts including the spare tire relocation kit (either through a spare tire supporting bull bar or over the OEM bumper TJM or ARB kits), (and heavy duty coils for the extra weight) before starting the installation.

But as many are aware, today is quite hard to find the 80 series double neck filler which I think is the more serious issue to resolve.
Transfering the fuel to the main tank or monitoring remaining gas on the aux tank are peanuts and should not be of any concern. ( on my own cruiser I only use my OEM gas meter and a universal 3 position switch which select either to monitor the stock gas tank or aux gas tank or turn on the pump to transfer from aux to main tank while monitoring the main and that´s it, this setup has worked fine for the last 10 years)


I relayed on aussie manufactured parts to do our job because there were not any locally produced parts but since then things changed.

I noticed there are now many great options in the states which are very serious hard core and of course none of them should be considered ´bare bones´

Unfortunately I repeat the filler issue remains the main issue to resolve.

So I deeply understand Angel?´s concern, replacing the OEM tank with the higher capacity tank is perhaps the faster,safe and simpler way to increase cruiser´s range and I guess is a quite valid solution, which he can choose once his doubts are clarified

 

[silvercruiser]

1) Will this interfere with bolt-on sliders such as Slee's; ***no problems fitting Slee's sliders or Metal Tech Sliders***

2) Does this hang down too low; and***Will depend on your wheeling and rig. I have 315's and Slee 4" suspension...so far I have not had a problem with the tank hanging down too low. I have wheeled moderately difficult trails with no issues.

3) Will the existing tank skid plate work. ***no at least I don't have it on my rig***

Does anyone have any experience with this tank?***Yes, some in the past mentioned an issue with the tank "burping" and scaring the occupants in the vehicle. After 4 years I haven't experienced this. I do like the extra range the tank provides and was able to use the space where the spare was for part of the OBA setup.

cheers,
David...

 

[Mark Davis]

I know this does not address any of Angel questions but has anyone installed the aux tank and just used a pump to fill it from the main tank and then pumping it back when you ran the main tank down.

Mark

 

[chibo]

I know this does not address any of Angel questions but has anyone installed the aux tank and just used a pump to fill it from the main tank and then pumping it back when you ran the main tank down.

Mark

Sorta what I was getting at. My friend has an 80 Toy pickup with a regular tank and an aux tank, it just sits higher and lets gravity do the work. Just fill the aux tank and it runs though and fills the main tank... then you keep pumping till the aux is full. I believe it's got about 65gal capacity total.

 

[hobbes]

I think if you do a search for an old thread by Photoman, he did both. IIRC, he said for him the way to go was the larger tank in the stock location. He spells out the reasons in that thread.

 

[chibo]

I think if you do a search for an old thread by Photoman, he did both. IIRC, he said for him the way to go was the larger tank in the stock location. He spells out the reasons in that thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=73174&highlight=photoman+aux
I assume this is the thread you're referring to... saving time for other people who come across this thread with similar questions. Also, I note that he sold the tank because it hung down so far.

 

[squeezer]

I bought photomans tank and have had it installed for 3 years now.

It does "burp" on occasion but other than that it performs just fine.

This is the best mod I have made to my 80...

 

[hobbes]

Well, looks like I had it backwards.

Extra fuel capacity seems to be one of those reoccuring issues with 80s. The factory aux tanks were a good solution until the necks got scarce and the prices went up. It seems that right now the filler necks are "long pole in the tent". I could get a custom tank welded up pretty cheap, but as has been noted that is the least of the issues so I haven't bothered.

 

[EricG]

Sorta what I was getting at. My friend has an 80 Toy pickup with a regular tank and an aux tank, it just sits higher and lets gravity do the work. Just fill the aux tank and it runs though and fills the main tank... then you keep pumping till the aux is full. I believe it's got about 65gal capacity total.

So the bottom of the Aux tank has to be >= the top of the main tank. Hard to see that working on an 80.

I think the idea of a single filler neck & pumping between tanks has merit though. Only problem is you have to be able to pump both ways - main -> aux to fill aux, aux -> main to use aux capacity

 

[Angel?]

Thanks for the feedback

Thanks all.

Silvercruiser, did you see the thread mentioned in post #10 https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...t=photoman+aux ? I am wondering if the observations photoman makes regarding the unit hangs low, the unit's strap bends easily, the unit sits very close to the driveshaft, and the gauge sender requires a kluge, are the same for your unit (I suspect they are, yet maybe things have changed). And, I am wondering if by chance you have some pics you could share.

It is interesting that photoman's post does not quite line up with what I was told today by Man-a-Fre: that the unit rode higher than the frame rails (not below as indicated by photoman's pics). MAF confirmed the unit would not be a problem with the bolt-on sliders. I also learned from MAF you can not use the stock skid plate, and while many ask about one, MAF is aware of anyone fabricating a skid for this tank. I am to get some pics from MAF, which I will be happy to share.

Anyone else have some input?

 

[F0RSAKEN]

You didn´t clear any of Angel serious and logic questions, he is looking for help

lmao my bad....I have no experience with the MAF 38gal tank, all I can say is maybe call MAF and get the dimensions of the tank, and compare those to the dimensions of the stock tank (taking into account mount locations, of course).

 

[robmir]

lmao my bad....I have no experience with the MAF 38gal tank, all I can say is maybe call MAF and get the dimensions of the tank, and compare those to the dimensions of the stock tank (taking into account mount locations, of course).

I followed Photoman link and it´s very well explained. His review confirmed what somebody told me years ago, but I was afraid to give my opinion without having some proof at hand.

Any way now I guess we all have enough info as to what´s choices we have.

 

[robmir]

Thanks all.

Silvercruiser, did you see the thread mentioned in post #10 https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...t=photoman+aux ? I am wondering if the observations photoman makes regarding the unit hangs low, the unit's strap bends easily, the unit sits very close to the driveshaft, and the gauge sender requires a kluge, are the same for your unit (I suspect they are, yet maybe things have changed). And, I am wondering if by chance you have some pics you could share.

It is interesting that photoman's post does not quite line up with what I was told today by Man-a-Fre: that the unit rode higher than the frame rails (not below as indicated by photoman's pics). MAF confirmed the unit would not be a problem with the bolt-on sliders. I also learned from MAF you can not use the stock skid plate, and while many ask about one, MAF is aware of anyone fabricating a skid for this tank. I am to get some pics from MAF, which I will be happy to share.

Anyone else have some input?

Take in mind that the gauge of the material used by the aussies on the replacement tank is way thicker as the stock tank. It doesn´t mean it can´t be punctured but it can stand some punishement.

The only thing I don´t get is why MAF state that the tank rode higher than the frame rails against photomat pictures ? Perhaps photomat tank is an older design and the newer has been improved and rode higher ?

If that´s the case then this replacement tank is not such a bad idea !!!!

 

[hoser]

I am told, one drawback of these aftermarket fuel tanks is you will get rust in your tank from the welds. The OEM tank does not have these exposed welds. An aux tank with a transfer pump has a filter between the two tanks to filter the rust particles. In the case of a replacement main tank, there is only the main fuel filter.
It is advised to increase the frequency of fuel filter changes.

 

[F0RSAKEN]

I am told, one drawback of these aftermarket fuel tanks is you will get rust in your tank from the welds. The OEM tank does not have these exposed welds. An aux tank with a transfer pump has a filter between the two tanks to filter the rust particles. In the case of a replacement main tank, there is only the main fuel filter.
It is advised to increase the frequency of fuel filter changes.

Thats easy enough to get around. Put a bladder in the tank. Yes the welds may still rust, but it wont get in your fuel.

 

[robmir]

I am told, one drawback of these aftermarket fuel tanks is you will get rust in your tank from the welds. The OEM tank does not have these exposed welds. An aux tank with a transfer pump has a filter between the two tanks to filter the rust particles. In the case of a replacement main tank, there is only the main fuel filter.
It is advised to increase the frequency of fuel filter changes.

Mine as all that I installed came with a magnet to be set close to the suction tube, and I have a clear filter before the pump. 12 years later and I have not cleaned or noticed any rust on the filter