Electrical Problems

KYSAND9280 · 02-12-07, 08:40 AM

Brothers from other mothers,

I have an electrical problem in my 80 . Can someone post some picks of their battery and the cables that come off the positive side(stock setup). I had an alternator problem I thought. Truck electrically died on me one day, so I replaced the alternator. The problem persisted and drained my battery. In combo with draining and not charging the battery it would blow the fuesable link to the positive side of the battery. I thought it was the voltage regulator and I had had gotten a bad atlternator so I had the new one replaced.

Problem still persist in that is blows fuses. I was using 20A fuses and bumped up to a 30A. I'm not sure what size to use so I started conservative. Its working for now. The one symptom that hasn't changed in all of this is the lights dim a bit at idle and brighten up on throttle. I assume now that I have a short somewere. The cables comming off the pos. terminal of the battery are a bit of a rats nest. Looks like a plastic terminal box was suposed to be mounted on the battery box and broke off. I'm curious what stock looks like before I start rewiring.

Thanks

Don.

Cruiser Jimmy · 02-12-07, 10:49 AM

I'm sure one of us can help you if you tell what year your rig is. I assume it's a '92 from your username.

Once I get home, I can take a pic of what you need if your cruiser has the 3FE engine.

Also, did you confirm all the grounds are secure? There are at least 4 grounding points on the engine. First (2) on the negative cable and (1) on each side of the engine.

I would not go above the recommended Amp load on a fuse if you're trying to solve an ele. problem. The excess voltage can exceed the wires limits and can burn it when you put a higer amp fuse in it. Then you really have some problems.

jonheld · 02-12-07, 12:28 PM

Don,

There are 3 fusible links on the positive terminal. 2 go to the square black plastic box with ring terminals, 1 goes to the gray connector. You need to determine which one is blowing and you will be able to isolate that circuit. You can download the wiring schematics for a 1991 FJ80 US spec (should be identical to 92) from my web site. You can also see 2 pics of the positive terminal. Mine is not stock, but all the wires are there.

KYSAND9280 · 02-13-07, 05:53 AM

[quote=jonheld;1843120]Don,

There are 3 fusible links on the positive terminal. 2 go to the square black plastic box with ring terminals, 1 goes to the gray connector. You need to determine which one is blowing and you will be able to isolate that circuit.

Thanks, your schimatics link will help when I get the chance to study them.

The fusible link that's blowing leads to the right side of the plastic box if you were to look stright down from the positive terminal. The original link burned up when my alternator when out back in april. It was so bad I couldn't recognize what it used to look like. I replaced it with a glass tube fuse link. its just a wire with a bus fuse holder. I just need to use the schimatics provided and start trouble shooting.

Thanks again.

CJF · 02-13-07, 10:00 AM

OEM fusible links are pretty darn cheap IIRC...

Cruiser Jimmy · 02-13-07, 07:35 PM

schemetic shows the following:
(opposing side wire)AM1: feeds to the 50 amp fusiable link (and others) then on to the ingition.
(center wire) AM2: direct to ingition switch.
(opposing side wire)Main: feeds to EFI relay, headlight relay, Taillight relay, and some others.

Pics will have to come later. We both have some back winter weather.

KYSAND9280 · 02-14-07, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklubens

schemetic shows the following:
AM1: feeds to the 50 amp fusiable link (and others) then on to the ingition.
AM2: direct to ingition switch.
Main: feeds to EFI relay, headlight relay, Taillight relay, and some others.

Pics will have to come later. We both have some back winter weather.

Yeah, I thought we weren't going to get any winter this year and now look. I wish just a little of that snow would fall down here in KY. BTW, these FSM schimatics are wonderful. I'm sure I don't need the pics now. Thanks and have fun playin' in the snow.

dfmorse · 02-14-07, 07:52 AM

KY...

Here's a pictorial diagram of the fuse link area on my 94-FZJ80. Plus some other useful stuff. The factory fuse link arrangement has never impressed me much, so I modified same. These fuse links can become kinked and corroded over time. This allows a hot spot to develope in the wire and will "blow" the link in time.

http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/BattProj2/page9.html

http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/FuseChart3.5.1/

...

KYSAND9280 · 03-01-07, 01:29 PM

What is the rating for the black fuse link on the pos. term. of the batt.? Mine burned up, so, what does the wire look like (ie, does it have a fuse in line, is it just a wire that burns trough)?

I've been burning 30 amp fuses trying to charge my battery after a bad drain. I replaced the whole line with a 16awg wire to limp home.

Need some help.

Thanks

dfmorse · 03-01-07, 01:49 PM

Its just a piece of wire, about a #12 in USA terminology. The surge current for battery charge can easily be 60amps; I've seen this on my inline ampmeter. I'd increase ur wire size to around 14awg until u get the proper fuse links from Toyota.

If the battery is shorting out [one cell] , it could draw quite a lot of current, blowing the stock link.

...