IPOR Skid Plate Install - Page 2

Jacques Villeneuve · 07-29-07, 08:51 PM

Thanks to all for the advice.

The skid plate is in.

While waiting for my youngest son to arrive to give me a hand, I decided to replace the A/C belt and alternator belts. First I took off the mini-skid plate beneath the front end of the engine. I broke one of the four bolts holding it on even though I had used PB Blaster a couple of days ago and tried to loosen them by using the one turn out half turn in method. There was just too much rust on the top end of this bolt. I may dirll it out if the plate rattles with just the three remaining bolts holding it on.

I then went at the A/C belt by loosening the nut on the idler pulley. Then I backed off the adjustment bolt and it broke too! I took off the idler pulley and then pried off the little flange that holds the sliding adjuster to the idler bolt. This allowed me to take off the adjuster with the broken adjusing bolt in place. Luckily it is really long so I put it in a vice and used vice grips, PB Blaster and a soldering torch. I broke two more pieces off the bolt with the vise grips before it finally turned and I managed to get the remaining part of the bolt out. So it's off to my local Toy store for a new bolt (unless the the local fastener specialist has one!).

The alternator went by without a hitch. To loosen the adjusing bolt you really have to use a box end wrench, but that's OK.

The IPOR skid plate went on with a few grunts. I figure it is best to but the central two nuts on first. You really have to make sure that the jack holding up the rear flange of the tranfer case is way back at the far end of the TC oterwise it gets in the way. I will be experimenting tomorrow with some rubber grommets I have in order to protect the center two bolts that protrude way down. I am going to get two new nuts, flat and lock washers tomorrow. If it works or not, I will take and post some pics.

There was not enough time left to do the Pin 7 mod (it got dark fast). My son's help will make that job go a bit easier too.

All in all, a fun day. Good to work with my son. That was the best part.

MikePL · 07-30-07, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvarorb

In this picture there is a rubber block in the left side of the photo. I mean this square block with a screw in the middle which goes from the transfer case. What is it for? Should it attach to anything? In my rig it just hangs as it is, nothing below or above. Should I worry?

Sorry for the slight off topic, but now that we area in the similar are I thought I would ask...

alvarorb · 07-30-07, 04:48 PM

Mike,

That's a dampener. It's purpose it's to minimize vibrations.
It just hangs there.

Regards

Alvaro

Jacques Villeneuve · 07-30-07, 09:09 PM

Here is a shot of the two rubber grommets I used to help protect the two centre studs. These were bought at a store called Princess Auto and were bump stops from the home-made trailer section. I trimmed them with a band saw. They are held in with a 19mm nut and lock washer. I may still get the Dremel out and trim the stud tips where there is no thread.

YOTAFAN · 10-01-07, 12:30 PM

So after the skid plate is installed, is there anything to protect the front lip of the muffler getting caught up on stuff? It looks like the muffler starts right where the skid plate ends towards the rear of the vehicle.

alvarorb · 10-01-07, 02:42 PM

Yotafan,

The stock muffler hangs down too low. If you need the IPOR skid plate for the type of wheeling you do, you probably want to change the stock muffler for something that is nice and tucked away.

Regards

Alvaro

Quote:

Originally Posted by YOTAFAN

So after the skid plate is installed, is there anything to protect the front lip of the muffler getting caught up on stuff? It looks like the muffler starts right where the skid plate ends towards the rear of the vehicle.

Scott_sFZJ80 · 10-01-07, 07:19 PM

I agree with Alvaro, it would be a good idea to think about a tucked away system. I upload a few pics. I damaged the stock muffler prior to the skid plate install but I may have hung up the front lip of the muffler anyways.

Scott_sFZJ80 · 10-01-07, 07:23 PM

There may be a way to get creative with some additional brackets to the skid plate and the frame to help you slid over a rock.

Keep in mind that my muffler is now pushed up and back.

landtank · 10-01-07, 07:32 PM

After meeting with the NorCal guys last week and upon viewing my skid plate it seems necessary to drill and access hole to be able to grease the front drive shaft while it is still mounted to the truck.

Has anyone done this? I just took a quick look at it but about an 1 1/4" hole properly positioned should to the trick.

Jacques Villeneuve · 10-01-07, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landtank

After meeting with the NorCal guys last week and upon viewing my skid plate it seems necessary to drill and access hole to be able to grease the front drive shaft while it is still mounted to the truck.

Has anyone done this? I just took a quick look at it but about an 1 1/4" hole properly positioned should to the trick.

I thought I could get to the U_Joint with a flexible hose. I'll check again. I may have been dreaming (again).

landtank · 10-01-07, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Villeneuve

I thought I could get to the U_Joint with a flexible hose. I'll check again. I may have been dreaming (again).

I'm running a DC Shaft and it's the center zirk that can't be had.

ERG80 · 10-01-07, 07:53 PM

Did you install the DC shaft while the skid plate was on the vehicle? I took the factory one off no problem but cant fit a wrench on the Tcase nuts because the DC makes it too tight in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by landtank

I'm running a DC Shaft and it's the center zirk that can't be had.

landtank · 10-01-07, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERG80

Did you install the DC shaft while the skid plate was on the vehicle? I took the factory one off no problem but cant fit a wrench on the Tcase nuts because the DC makes it too tight in there.

the plate went on after the shaft. The truck has been sitting all summer so I haven't needed to even try greasing it yet. I'm not sure which CV head I have either. After looking at NorCalSam's drive shaft I can say it's not a spicer. The u-joint zirks are located in one of the cups sticking out of the end.

edit: looks to be a Toyota cv

alvarorb · 10-01-07, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott_sFZJ80

There may be a way to get creative with some additional brackets to the skid plate and the frame to help you slid over a rock.

Keep in mind that my muffler is now pushed up and back.

Scott,

Here's what I did:

As you can see the muffler is tucked away. It does not sound too loud. It just sounds different.
I did this while I still had my Slee Skid Plate.

Regards

Alvaro

Jacques Villeneuve · 10-02-07, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landtank

I'm running a DC Shaft and it's the center zirk that can't be had.

Just out of curiosity, what is the advantage of a Double Cardan (DC) drive shaft over stock?

landtank · 10-02-07, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Villeneuve

Just out of curiosity, what is the advantage of a Double Cardan (DC) drive shaft over stock?

I have a 4" lift and when correcting for caster you end up aligning for a DC shaft. It's not an advantage thing at all but a design driven application.

tashby · 10-02-07, 10:56 AM

Rick, did you "aim" your rear pinion at the T-case, similer to the front w/caster plates?

landtank · 10-02-07, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tashby

Rick, did you "aim" your rear pinion at the T-case, similer to the front w/caster plates?

no I didn't. At 4" the rear seems fine. I've worked through quite a few 4" lifts now and I don't think anyone has adjusted the rear arms or even installed the parts for that.

YOTAFAN · 10-03-07, 06:44 AM

The point where the exhaust wraps underneath the frame (between the cats and the muffler) seems like another pinch point to me. Has anybody had any problems hitting the exhaust in this spot on rocks?

Scott_sFZJ80 · 10-03-07, 07:22 AM

Alvaro, that looks good. I would like to hear that set up at SNT this year. As YOTAFAN fan references, is there a reason you didn't go over the frame? Mine is a "93 so I have the different cats but is there really no room to route over the frame just behind the cats?

concretejungle · 10-03-07, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott_sFZJ80

is there a reason you didn't go over the frame? Mine is a "93 so I have the different cats but is there really no room to route over the frame just behind the cats?

If you look under there, it's REALLY tight! It has been done, but it's a tight fit and most muffler guys look at it and shake their head no. At least that's what i had one muffler guy tell me. He didn't really want to earn his money i guess.

Koffer · 10-03-07, 10:02 AM

I got 2 of these plates . I have one installed in the back of my 91 Ford E150 van and the other was installed in the garage right next to the compressor

One more part I had the money but not the time

One day I'll get everything done and I wont have anything to do

07-29-07, 08:51 PM	#31
Jacques Villeneuve IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: S. Ontario Posts: 248	Thanks to all for the advice. The skid plate is in. While waiting for my youngest son to arrive to give me a hand, I decided to replace the A/C belt and alternator belts. First I took off the mini-skid plate beneath the front end of the engine. I broke one of the four bolts holding it on even though I had used PB Blaster a couple of days ago and tried to loosen them by using the one turn out half turn in method. There was just too much rust on the top end of this bolt. I may dirll it out if the plate rattles with just the three remaining bolts holding it on. I then went at the A/C belt by loosening the nut on the idler pulley. Then I backed off the adjustment bolt and it broke too! I took off the idler pulley and then pried off the little flange that holds the sliding adjuster to the idler bolt. This allowed me to take off the adjuster with the broken adjusing bolt in place. Luckily it is really long so I put it in a vice and used vice grips, PB Blaster and a soldering torch. I broke two more pieces off the bolt with the vise grips before it finally turned and I managed to get the remaining part of the bolt out. So it's off to my local Toy store for a new bolt (unless the the local fastener specialist has one!). The alternator went by without a hitch. To loosen the adjusing bolt you really have to use a box end wrench, but that's OK. The IPOR skid plate went on with a few grunts. I figure it is best to but the central two nuts on first. You really have to make sure that the jack holding up the rear flange of the tranfer case is way back at the far end of the TC oterwise it gets in the way. I will be experimenting tomorrow with some rubber grommets I have in order to protect the center two bolts that protrude way down. I am going to get two new nuts, flat and lock washers tomorrow. If it works or not, I will take and post some pics. There was not enough time left to do the Pin 7 mod (it got dark fast). My son's help will make that job go a bit easier too. All in all, a fun day. Good to work with my son. That was the best part. __________________ '97 LX450 : Lockers : IPOR skid plate : Heated Seats : 305/75R16 Firestone Destination A/T's - 1.25" Wheel Spacers : CDL switch : Pin 7 mod : 4x4Labs bumper w/carrier/ladder: Breathers for TC/AT/Diffs/Lockers Boot Hill Cemetary Here lies Lester Moore, Shot in the head with a '44, No Les, No Moore.

07-30-07, 04:48 PM	#33
alvarorb Cook Free or Die Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Sacramento, California TLCA# 12833 Posts: 1,547	Mike, That's a dampener. It's purpose it's to minimize vibrations. It just hangs there. Regards Alvaro __________________ Alvaro Rodriguez 96 FZJ80 "La Cabra" 08 Tacoma Double Cab 4x4 TCLA #12833 / BRC # 41799 KI7FZJ New web site with blog and pics Norcal wagons website INTI Roof Racks - Make a loan, Make a difference - Kiva.org

07-30-07, 09:09 PM	#34
Jacques Villeneuve IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: S. Ontario Posts: 248	Here is a shot of the two rubber grommets I used to help protect the two centre studs. These were bought at a store called Princess Auto and were bump stops from the home-made trailer section. I trimmed them with a band saw. They are held in with a 19mm nut and lock washer. I may still get the Dremel out and trim the stud tips where there is no thread. Attached Images __________________ '97 LX450 : Lockers : IPOR skid plate : Heated Seats : 305/75R16 Firestone Destination A/T's - 1.25" Wheel Spacers : CDL switch : Pin 7 mod : 4x4Labs bumper w/carrier/ladder: Breathers for TC/AT/Diffs/Lockers Boot Hill Cemetary Here lies Lester Moore, Shot in the head with a '44, No Les, No Moore.

10-01-07, 07:19 PM	#37
Scott_sFZJ80 release the hounds Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: over yonder TLCA# 13283 Posts: 443	I agree with Alvaro, it would be a good idea to think about a tucked away system. I upload a few pics. I damaged the stock muffler prior to the skid plate install but I may have hung up the front lip of the muffler anyways. Attached Images __________________ 1993 FZJ80 ROTW - October 23-29 2005 Snorkel install , Skid Plate install , Rear Bumper

10-01-07, 07:23 PM	#38
Scott_sFZJ80 release the hounds Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: over yonder TLCA# 13283 Posts: 443	There may be a way to get creative with some additional brackets to the skid plate and the frame to help you slid over a rock. Keep in mind that my muffler is now pushed up and back. Attached Images __________________ 1993 FZJ80 ROTW - October 23-29 2005 Snorkel install , Skid Plate install , Rear Bumper

10-01-07, 12:30 PM	#35
YOTAFAN IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 190	So after the skid plate is installed, is there anything to protect the front lip of the muffler getting caught up on stuff? It looks like the muffler starts right where the skid plate ends towards the rear of the vehicle.

10-01-07, 07:32 PM	#39
landtank ThinkTank Waterboy Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Boston MA Posts: 10,880	After meeting with the NorCal guys last week and upon viewing my skid plate it seems necessary to drill and access hole to be able to grease the front drive shaft while it is still mounted to the truck. Has anyone done this? I just took a quick look at it but about an 1 1/4" hole properly positioned should to the trick. __________________ Rick Bigelow '96 215k Groveland MA 01834 If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes

10-02-07, 10:56 AM	#47
tashby IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 78	Rick, did you "aim" your rear pinion at the T-case, similer to the front w/caster plates? __________________ 1977 FJ40 1995 FZJ80 T Ashby Layton UT

10-03-07, 06:44 AM	#49
YOTAFAN IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 190	The point where the exhaust wraps underneath the frame (between the cats and the muffler) seems like another pinch point to me. Has anybody had any problems hitting the exhaust in this spot on rocks?

10-03-07, 07:22 AM	#50
Scott_sFZJ80 release the hounds Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: over yonder TLCA# 13283 Posts: 443	Alvaro, that looks good. I would like to hear that set up at SNT this year. As YOTAFAN fan references, is there a reason you didn't go over the frame? Mine is a "93 so I have the different cats but is there really no room to route over the frame just behind the cats? __________________ 1993 FZJ80 ROTW - October 23-29 2005 Snorkel install , Skid Plate install , Rear Bumper

10-03-07, 10:02 AM	#52
Koffer IH8MUD Thread Killer Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Hopewell NJ Posts: 969	I got 2 of these plates . I have one installed in the back of my 91 Ford E150 van and the other was installed in the garage right next to the compressor One more part I had the money but not the time One day I'll get everything done and I wont have anything to do __________________ Todd 64' FJ40, 79' FJ40,(gone) 86' BJ70, 92' FJ80,(gone) 96' FZJ80 just 3 cruisers now 66'M416 and a 92' M101CND

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