[landtank]

I've read through the turbo FAQ that has been recently added and decided to work it out as it pertains to our trucks and my goals for a forced inducted system. It was simplified also by the fact that I live at sea level.

All along my thoughts have been on a system in the 330 hp range. This just seems to be the target for me as I have found Plug and Play injectors that are rated at 460cc/min which if used would put the duty cycle back at near stock range when running a turbo.

So I started working out the math to size the turbo for such a system. I'll post up filled equations and you can compare them to the FAQ.

AIR FLOW:

330 x 12 x .55/60 = 36.3 lbs/min


MAP:

36.3 x 639.6 x 590 / .85 x 2500 x 274.59
or 13924731.6 / 583503.75 = 23.86


Compensate for system loss of psi:

23.86 + 2.0 = 25.86


Pressure ratio:

25.86 / 13.7 = 1.89



Now using the pressure ratio and the air flow calculations we determine a good turbo by plugging them into their maps.

Attached is the map for a GT35R Garrett turbo. I've placed a red dot where I believe it should be.

It looks close to ideal I think but wanted more experienced guys to look it over and check my work.

[clownmidget]

Rick this looks fine but what injectors are you sourcing that are plug and play and 460 cc/min

[landtank]

Denso # 195500-2010

They were used in a few years of Mazda RX-7 non turbos. I got six from a guy in Texas off of EBay.

[Dusty]

looks good
cant wait to see how it works. with all the work you have done scott you need to put that thing on a dyno when you are done

oh I found the part number to my turbo while I had it disassemble recently
zamoo1
466290-9008
http://www.mwfi.com/Turbopage.htm
ford 7.8L diesel $614

[GZERO]

Well, first, what do you want? i know you want 330 HP but where at? do you want bottom end? mid or top? plot a couple more RPMS along the area you want it that way you'll know if the turbo is boosting where you want it. Since it's a truck i'll think you'll need it pulling at around 1800 full boost. Now that turbo is a GOOD one, bb, water cooled and for the engine sounds like it would be pulling low in the power band. Now, i don't have the kind of problem of gas, but you guys do, so i wouldn't advice the turbo spooling low in the power band so you can save some gas.

The only peace of advice that i can give you to be very worthwhile is to handle temperatures the best way, meaning, ceramic coating everything exhaust side and try to use the heat wrap. that way electrical stuff will last, things will not get cooked. Also the turbo water cooled passages are a VERY big plus to me. Used them.

[Cattledog]

Originally Posted by Dusty

looks good
cant wait to see how it works. with all the work you have done scott you need to put that thing on a dyno when you are done

oh I found the part number to my turbo while I had it disassemble recently
zamoo1
466290-9008
http://www.mwfi.com/Turbopage.htm
ford 7.8L diesel $614

Dusty, at what rpm do you start making pressure? Seems like a BIG turbo for this engine. But, hey if it works, and works well who care right! Can't beat the price.

Landtank, I agree that the gt35R looks great in the 4.5 engine.

Your 460 cc injectors should be fine during high rpm. Double checked on the rc engineering site and in multiple turbo/efi calcuators. Idling the truck will be the trick. Hope the MAF mod works.

[Dusty]

my turbo starts boosting at about 1800 rpms if under load. remember that a turbo spins in relation to the exhaust gasses it sees. so a big diesel motor that does its work at low rpms isnt giving anymore exhaust gas than a smaller motor that turns faster.

my turbo is a to4e 46trim with 70a/r intake and 86a/r exhaust. not that big

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Dusty

my turbo is a to4e 46trim with 70a/r intake and 86a/r exhaust. not that big

compared to T26 ( that come in all 1HD-T engines 4.2 vs your 4.5 ) is huge .. I thought the T26 ( it's a Toyota unit ) come with .48 ar

[Dusty]

compared to a diesel 4.2 turbo it is big. compared to the avo turbo christo sells its not that grande

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by Dusty

my turbo starts boosting at about 1800 rpms if under load. remember that a turbo spins in relation to the exhaust gasses it sees. so a big diesel motor that does its work at low rpms isnt giving anymore exhaust gas than a smaller motor that turns faster.

my turbo is a to4e 46trim with 70a/r intake and 86a/r exhaust. not that big

Wow, you must have some heavy top end power; my turbo starts boosting at 800 rpms and pulls strong to somewhere around 4200 at which point the tranny typically shifts before I see a power plateau. I betcha yer pullin through 5500 rpms with much more to go.

[Dusty]

turbo
do you mean your boost gauge is seeing boost at only 800 rpms?
I'll bet your safari turbo blows as hard as mine. someone got the specs on that thing? the turbo isn't "pulling" any harder at higher rpms. once you hit wastegate opening pressure that is the highest psi you get unless you have creep or mechanisms to adjust boost. of course a better sized turbo will be more efficient at the rpms you are reving and thus offer less heat and backpressure and so is of course potentially more powerful and responsive at that rpm

my engine rarely sees 4000rpms and I doubt the 1fzfe can fuel much more than 6psi in stock trim. I'm pushing it as it is. there may be craploads of power way out on the right of the tach but I'll never see it.

[Tapage]

I thought are a very complicated turbo setup for wide rpm range .. a short one for lower rpm's and huge one for higer .. or 2 stage turbo setup.

Imop I want all my turbo boost between 1.600 and 2600 rpm .. this is the range that works really well my 2H engine ..

But in the case of my 1HD-T ( totaly diferent engine ) start boosting at 1800 rpm to 3.800 aprox .. ar 11 PSI the wategate start working ..

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by Dusty

turbo
do you mean your boost gauge is seeing boost at only 800 rpms?
I'll bet your safari turbo blows as hard as mine. someone got the specs on that thing? the turbo isn't "pulling" any harder at higher rpms. once you hit wastegate opening pressure that is the highest psi you get unless you have creep or mechanisms to adjust boost. of course a better sized turbo will be more efficient at the rpms you are reving and thus offer less heat and backpressure and so is of course potentially more powerful and responsive at that rpm

my engine rarely sees 4000rpms and I doubt the 1fzfe can fuel much more than 6psi in stock trim. I'm pushing it as it is. there may be craploads of power way out on the right of the tach but I'll never see it.

Yup, boost as low as 800 rpms, and I'm pushing 7.5 to 8psi without ever going lean! Ohh, my engine regularly sees 4000 rpms without knock, without lean, and without overheating!

[concretejungle]

I wish you guys would dyno these things so we could see what you are pushing at the wheels! And compare that to a super....i know christo has, but the rest of you with homebrew turbos and with the safari.

[Dusty]

I agree. It would be nice to put her on a dyno to see what its happening. I would like to stick a wideband in there too

[GZERO]

Originally Posted by Tapage

I thought are a very complicated turbo setup for wide rpm range .. a short one for lower rpm's and huge one for higer .. or 2 stage turbo setup.

Stuff like that already exist, for example the third gen RX7 uses this, altough i don't really think is a good idea to do this for a car that only revs to 4k rpm, a good bb turbo will be more than enough if sized properly

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by GZERO

Stuff like that already exist, for example the third gen RX7 uses this, altough i don't really think is a good idea to do this for a car that only revs to 4k rpm, a good bb turbo will be more than enough if sized properly

Yeah there are also other Diesel Toy aplications with variable geometry turbos .. as 1KD-T engines .. those turbos are ECU controled with a wide rpm range.