[Miescha]

Greetings to all.

I've been lurking on the forums for quite a while with only a few questions/comments here and there.

That said, I'd really like to tackle a few mods this year (maybe in the next month or so) and I'm looking for help. The two most pressing issues for my '96 FZJ80 daily driver are the brakes (or lack thereof) and the lack of power since the modest move to 285/75/16 tires.

I figured I would tackle the gearing issue first as it has bugged me more (seems like zero torque from a standstill or on the highway). I've searched the forums and read through a ton of great stuff in the tech pages. In the end though, all I really know is that a change from the OEM 4.11 gears to "something else" would be better - but I don't know where to go.

Can someone explain a few things (or point me to an existing guide for dummies).

1) What exactly will the gearing change do for me given my modestly larger tires over stock?

2) What gears are being changed (front and rear axle)?

3) What are my gearing choices and what are the cost/benefits of each? (4.11, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29 - I'm lost).

4) Given that everyone seems to think this job should be left to a pro, how do I go about finding a qualified person - I've done everything else myself so far?

Thanks for helping the helpless

[DanKunz]

My money is that the lack of power has more to do with the engine and not the gears. Have you gone through the truck in terms of tune up? Check the plug wires for the date, consider cap, rotor, etc.

I have no lack of power at all in mine. Granted, I have 35s and 4.88s. You shouldn't need to regear for 33s on stock gears.

[Grench]

Um, is it just me...

Fix your brakes first. Your '96 should be able to make you slide forward into your seatbelt on your leather seats.

I had to bleed my brakes 4 times before they worked right. They were weak at first when I got it.

YMMV

[Miescha]

DanKunz: Good point. My local dealer does all the routine work - including a fairly recent tune-up. However, no one has ever mentioned wires, caps, etc...

Is there a check-list of items I can go through?

Many thanks.

[Miescha]

Grench: I have never slide forward in my leather seats (but I've grimaced a lot hoping I would stop in time to avoid an accident).

The brakes have always been poor (comparison to any recent BMW), but I always figured that was just b/c the cruiser is big and heavy. I also have a F*rd F350 though (diesel, crew cab, long bed, 4x4) which weighs a whole lot more than the cruiser and stops a whole lot better.

Since the OME suspension upgrade and tire change, the braking stinks and the acceleration really sucks (worst of both worlds?). I love the ride though - so I would never go back to stock.

I know I'm asking for trouble, but where should I start throwing money? I've been letting the dealer service the vehicle (including only OEM brake pads and rotors) but I seem to go through pads every 10k miles and I do a lot of engine braking in daily driving.

On the lack of acceleration side, I run full synthetic oil from the dealer, and only the dealer has ever looked at the tune-up issues - so only dealer wires and plugs. Is there an aftermarket option on the electrical side that would greatly improve performance?

[Cruiserdrew]

With those tires, I wouldn't do any gearing changes at all. Land Cruisers are not fast. If you do move to 35 inch tires, then change to 4.88s. Save your $$ for other stuff you will want.

[Grench]

Originally Posted by Miescha

I know I'm asking for trouble, but where should I start throwing money? I've been letting the dealer service the vehicle (including only OEM brake pads and rotors) but I seem to go through pads every 10k miles and I do a lot of engine braking in daily driving.

Buy 4 quarts of brake fluid and a 12 pack of beer.

The beer is for the buddy you need to have help you do it.

Bleed at least 1/2 a quart through EACH corner, adding fluid as you go. Drive for 2 weeks. Repeat.

Your pads are wearing even faster than mine have. Buy OEM pads from Cruiserdan. For some reason they cost 1.5x as much and last 2x as long compared to parts store specials.

Are they wearing even? You may have a caliper sticking. Any vibration/surging? If so, you may have a rotor issue.

Fresh OEM pads all the way around turned my wife's new to us truck in May from an OK stopper to where it pulls the concrete with it.

My truck on 285 MTRs sounds like it is shredding the tires when I brake hard.

Neither one "locks up" on clean dry pavement as they are ABS, however if you put the pedal through the floor suddenly, you can hear the ABS kick.

No, my FZJ80 will never brake like my Z-28 on dry pavement. The FZJ80 weighs nearly three times as much.

My grey truck was -scary- under heavy braking when I got it. It is MUCH better now despite weighing close to 800 lbs more and having MUCH heavier tires. I bled the brakes, replaced the pads, replaced the master cylinder and it still sucked. The pads helped, but it was clear it wasn't right. The solution was bleeding it a rediculous amount. So I have my old master as a spare. Read the FSM for the procedure on bleeding the brakes. Over and over and over again...

Don't be discouraged. Your 80 should outbrake your pickup.

If you want this done at a shop, tell them that you want to replace the brake fluid by bleeding/adding. They will look at you real strange and say it will cost you an arm and a leg. Just nod.

YMMV. I take no responsibilty for any damage you do anything or anyone by working on your own brakes. When in doubt, refer to the FSM or use a professional's service.

[Miescha]

Grench: Thanks a million for taking the time to point me in the right direction re the brakes. I was considering a master cylinder replacement/upgrade and possibly even a 6-piston caliper upgrade (sounded nuts to me when recomended by a local hot-rod shop, but hey - it could work :-)

The good/bad part is that I need new pads NOW - so timing is perfect. You mentioned staying with OEM, but I've always taken it to the dealer for brakes (don't trust myself) so I guess I've always had OEM.

I'm considering a local well-known shop that has many, many locations and offers "lifetime parts and labor" on all repairs - including brakes. I went by there today and read over their paperwork and spoke with the manager and it seems to be on the level (they advertise heavily on local radio/tv). For a mere $299 they will replace all pads and guarantee them for 2 years or 24k miles INCLUDING the labor to replace them later (generally, I find this to be the key in "lifetime" guarantees).

To get the full lifetime deal, you have to replace the pads, rotors AND calipers - so they make their money up front.

Either way, I think they are betting I won't still own the car when the pads are gone OR they will last at least 24k miles - but they don't know anything about FJ80 brakes :-)

On the down side, they may use really crappy pads that make the stopping performance even worse.

Either way, I'll ask them about the bleeding process and the cost - but probably just do it myself.

FYI, I'm told the pad wear is even (don't know for sure b/c I don't do brakes - yet), and the braking is certainly smooth (no vibration or surging) it is just smooth for a really long time - until it finally stops :-)

Anyone have thoughts on cross-drilled, slotted, checkered, solid gold, etc... rotors? Worth the cost or just stick with the OEM?

I'll start a new thread for the possible electrical run-down regarding my overall lack of power - given that I've already completely goofed-up this one.

Thanks again.

[Miescha]

As a quick addition - in case it matters - I've noticed that the hand brake (e-brake) is completely worthless.

If I stop on even the slightest hill and apply the e-brake to the fullest, put the 80 in neutral and let off the brake - it will start to roll.

Any connection - or just usual for the mileage?

I mentioned it to two different dealers and they both said the e-brake was "adjusted to specs" so I'm assumming the specs are very poor her in 'ole STL.

[KliersLC]

If you don't have pedal pulse, use 100 series pads from cruiserdan. They will last much longer.

DO NOT let that shop replace your Toyota parts with their off brand junk.

Bleeding the brakes is an excellent idea, and for slightly better performance you can get the SS lines as well. Also make sure to bed in your new pads properly. Search for "bed in" on the forum and you will be assaulted with info.

The aftermarket rotors you mention are a good upgrade, but they don't ereally help that much with stopping. They do help keep your brakes cooler and keep them from fading, but no real stopping distance improvements. If you need new rotors, give them a try, but if your rotors are fine, leave them be.

As far as you power issues go. Electrical problems are not always the answer. Clean your throttle body and advance your timing just a bit and you will be pleasantly surprised. You might also consider one of the engione treatments like seafoam or redline to clean everything out.

Also, Engine oil viscosity can have a significant effect on performance. I run 15w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter and I can definately see the difference in speed pulling the same grades. Many folks use the Mobil 5w30, but I can't comment on that because I haven't used it.

Good Luck,
Dan

[KliersLC]

Search for Bellcrank or Bell crank or belcrank or something like that,

The ebrake is Pretty easy to play with

[BROKEROB1]

Originally Posted by KliersLC

Search for Bellcrank or Bell crank or belcrank or something like that,

The ebrake is Pretty easy to play with

Miecsha,

I agree with Dan. This would be a good time to diagnose and repair the e-brake. I ordered new shoes tore everything apart, used a ton of grease in putting things back together, and it works great. I had to shave the shoes a bit to get them to fit in.

Couple of
and get to it.

[Grench]

Originally Posted by Miescha

Grench: Thanks a million for taking the time to point me in the right direction re the brakes. I was considering a master cylinder replacement/upgrade and possibly even a 6-piston caliper upgrade (sounded nuts to me when recomended by a local hot-rod shop, but hey - it could work :-)

The good/bad part is that I need new pads NOW - so timing is perfect. You mentioned staying with OEM, but I've always taken it to the dealer for brakes (don't trust myself) so I guess I've always had OEM.

I'm considering a local well-known shop that has many, many locations and offers "lifetime parts and labor" on all repairs - including brakes. I went by there today and read over their paperwork and spoke with the manager and it seems to be on the level (they advertise heavily on local radio/tv). For a mere $299 they will replace all pads and guarantee them for 2 years or 24k miles INCLUDING the labor to replace them later (generally, I find this to be the key in "lifetime" guarantees).

To get the full lifetime deal, you have to replace the pads, rotors AND calipers - so they make their money up front.

Either way, I think they are betting I won't still own the car when the pads are gone OR they will last at least 24k miles - but they don't know anything about FJ80 brakes :-)

On the down side, they may use really crappy pads that make the stopping performance even worse.

Either way, I'll ask them about the bleeding process and the cost - but probably just do it myself.

FYI, I'm told the pad wear is even (don't know for sure b/c I don't do brakes - yet), and the braking is certainly smooth (no vibration or surging) it is just smooth for a really long time - until it finally stops :-)

Anyone have thoughts on cross-drilled, slotted, checkered, solid gold, etc... rotors? Worth the cost or just stick with the OEM?

I'll start a new thread for the possible electrical run-down regarding my overall lack of power - given that I've already completely goofed-up this one.

Thanks again.

$299? For brake pads? Just so you know... The brake pads are under $150 if you buy all 6 IIRC. Changing the front pads took me an hour the first time and 20 minutes each subsequent time. 15 minutes of that is with a jack and a tire iron. The rear pads are only slightly more involved, but after the first time are cake.

The parking brake... That can be easy or a real PITA depending on corosion.

What I'm saying though, is $299 for a 24 month pad waranty and calling it lifetime on a vehicle that you'll have forever? I think it may be cheaper in the end to just take it to a dealer and get better parts.

YMMV... Usual disclaimers apply.