[MTBGUY]

Anyone here ever consider a 160 degree thermostat for the summer and then use the stock 180/190 for winter?

I have had black cars that ran slightly warm in the heat of Texas summers, and this worked great for years- change them in April to 160 degree T-stat, then stock from October to March. Seems like it would help all round on the Cruiser also.

My rig stays pretty normal on the temps, but I plan on replacing the radiator and clutch next year as P.M>.

Any thoughts on this!

[alkaline747trio]

I like that idea, is the 160* OEM?

[Scamper]

It's been discussed a number of times. I recall the general consensus was that the engine was designed to run at the factory spec (190* if I'm not mistaken) and that running it cooler will only decrease the efficiency.

[alkaline747trio]

Correct, but a good cheap band-aid if you normally run hot.

[cruiserdan]

No, actually it's not. It only delays the over-heating. BTDT.

The engine is very inefficent below 180 degrees. In addition the warmer the engine the lower the wear.

[alkaline747trio]

It delays the overheating/getting hot (two close but different things), which is a cheap band-aid. Not the best idea in the world though.

[MTBGUY]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

No, actually it's not. It only delays the over-heating. BTDT.

The engine is very inefficent below 180 degrees. In addition the warmer the engine the lower the wear.

Probably a silly question, but what is BTDT? I thought you meant before top dead center but that can't be right.

I understand the temp+efficiency thing, just thinking that if many Cruisers always run 20 degrees warm in the heat, then the 160 would bring it down to around 185 or so.

After living in Texas for many years I lived in Alaska for 4, and there I ran a 195 degree one in the winter and standard thermostat in the summer, which worked pretty well and made me start thinking about this whole idea.

Thanks again for all of the great ideas everyone!

[RavenTai]

those who run warm when they pursue the problem are able to make it run properly in any condition with the stock thermostat.

[MTBGUY]

Originally Posted by Scamper

It's been discussed a number of times. I recall the general consensus was that the engine was designed to run at the factory spec (190* if I'm not mistaken) and that running it cooler will only decrease the efficiency.

My new (Toyota) one was marked 82C, which equates to 180 degrees fahrenheit. I really need to get a FSM to know what factory spec actually is! I don't know if Toyota makes another one without going aftermarket.

When I pulled the one out of my Cruiser (that wasn't Toyota) with the new OEM one from Dan, the difference in construction was amazing. Nothing compares to Toyota engineering.

[MTBGUY]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

those who run warm when they pursue the problem are able to make it run properly in any condition with the stock thermostat.

When I change the radiator next spring/summer I want to replace my plastic tanked 97 model with one of the all-metal ones. I searched but couldn't find it- was 94 the year that Toyota had an all-metal one that will bolt right into my 97?

Thanks!

[RavenTai]

93/94 has a copper/brass head exchanger instead of aluminum but the tanks are still plastic. it is a direct bolt in on 95-97 trucks.

there are all metal after market radiators but they are a pig in a poke, fit quality and life expectancy vary widely. their life is almost always shorter than the plastic tank OEM radiator.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by MTBGUY

Probably a silly question, but what is BTDT? I thought you meant before top dead center but that can't be right.

Been There, Done That.

[MTBGUY]

AHA! Learned a new expression today. Thanks- looks like I'll be getting a new 93/94 radiator and clutch from you in the near future.

[hadji_85]

wouldn't you want the engine to say the same temp regardless of the outside conditions

in which case you would only want one thermostat?

[cruiserdan]

Yes.