80 Slider Powdercoating coming off.

Skillet · 10-27-06, 05:31 PM

Hey folks,

Just got back from my 3K mile trip through Sonora, MX and Baja.

While getting setup for the trip, I did not put the mudflaps on as I did not know what I would encounter (deep sand, etc) and did not want to tear them off.

Well, I figured I would get a rock ding or two on the rockers and the sliders but take a look at the pics.

The first set shows how much of the powdercoating came off of the fronts of the cross braces. I thought that it was just the tires kicking up road debris but the funny thing is, the one with the most damage is the (edit) second one back, still far away from the front tires line of fire.

Then, I looked at the other side (second set of photos), there is little to no powdercoating missing from that side.

What the?

Could it be a bad coating job?

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Skillet · 10-27-06, 05:34 PM

Passenger side.

e9999 · 10-27-06, 05:53 PM

well, if it's only one side, that would suggest that road grit is not to blame, unless you drove extensively with one side over the berm.....

Skillet · 10-27-06, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e9999

well, if it's only one side, that would suggest that road grit is not to blame, unless you drove extensively with one side over the berm.....

No, I did not.

Always both wheels in the sand, dirt or both on the road.

Very puzzled about this.

airlaird · 10-27-06, 06:04 PM

Looks like it was SPRAY painted with a rattle can...not powdercoating.
airlaird

Tools R Us · 10-27-06, 06:05 PM

Looks like typical desert rock blast to me, one slider probably had a thicker coat than the other. The bottom 1/4 of my rear shocks are paintless just like that.

Skillet · 10-27-06, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airlaird

Looks like it was SPRAY painted with a rattle can...not powdercoating.
airlaird

Mr. Hannah might have an argument about that one...

I cannot see him rattle-canning his sliders.

Josh83 · 10-27-06, 09:56 PM

My hanna's started rusting at the seams in less than one year. Right were the outrigger supports are welded to the tube under the pinch weld. I think his powder coater is not the best.

Slomo · 10-27-06, 10:38 PM

Some road dirt sand blasting is normal but that much is excessive if they were coated well. Also to have that much of a difference side to side I have to agree with those above that Ken might want to find a new powder coater. I bet there was bad prep and/or very light coating of the powder before baking. It seems to be on one one surface direction which would make sense if the guy putting the powder on didn't shoot enough from a given direction. My Hanna's haven't seen nearly that much dirt road driving but they have a nice thick coating clearly visible on the area's they have been dragged over rocks and no signs of the above flaking. Sounds like you just got the "lucky" set.

-Spike- · 10-27-06, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

Looks like typical desert rock blast to me, one slider probably had a thicker coat than the other. The bottom 1/4 of my rear shocks are paintless just like that.

Mine too. Oddly, the shocks are the only thing damaged. I wonder if the coating is the reason, perhaps powdercoat doesn't like being sandblasted. I don't know if my OME shocks are powdercoated, but I wouldn't be suprised.

-Spike

drsales · 10-28-06, 03:55 AM

Powder coating only attaches itself as well as the prep work on the steel. If the steel was properly wash and a chemical primer (Iron Phos) for an example was incorporated then a chemical etch would have happened and the powder coating would have (bit) into the steel. What I see there is a poor prep job. The coating is not bonded to the surface. Thus the sheeting or pulling away in small patches.

When done properly the coating is one tuff mother....depending on prep, chemistryof the coating and cure cycle. In most cases where welds happen is the first place for failure. Always is even if you use a very aggressive cleaner /phos combination. But properly done I would expect better than you show.

Just my opinon. 22 yrs in the business.

Skillet · 10-28-06, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slomo

Sounds like you just got the "lucky" set.

Yea, the story of my life.

Just like the #6 injector that failed on me and according to C-dan, he has never, EVER, seen one of those fail in his 20+ years of dealing with Toyota.

We all know his experience.

Guess that everthing I spend my hard earned money on will just be half-ass. Nice.

Got a target on my head.

Now I have to spend another $100 on my $850 sliders to get it re-powdercoated due to some asshole powdercoater's lack of ability to do is f*cking job correctly.

My checkbook and I are getting sick of this shit.

e9999 · 10-28-06, 08:57 AM

My Hanna sliders look fine so far.

I have had trouble with other items though (other manuf), where rust was starting under the powdercoating, invisible -the worst-, and then big flakes would come off...

strangely, I read someplace that powder coating is cheaper than regular paint to put on, and that's why some manufacturers love it. Hard to believe, though....

alkaline747trio · 10-28-06, 09:04 AM

It's not all that visible, spray some clear coat over it and leave it alone. Just keep it touched up. 10 cans of spray paint (enough for 10 years of touch-up) is cheaper than that re-powder coating.

sleeoffroad · 10-28-06, 10:21 AM

Wheter it was a good prep job or not I can't comment on. However powdercoating will not stand up to sand blasting. Eventually it will come off. I would suggest you look at some of the 3m clear bra type stuff to put on the leading edges to protect them.

Tools R Us · 10-28-06, 10:43 AM

I agree on the spray bomb, don't know what Hanna uses, but Krylon semi flat black matches ARB bumpers well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleeoffroad

Wheter it was a good prep job or not I can't comment on. However powdercoating will not stand up to sand blasting. Eventually it will come off. I would suggest you look at some of the 3m clear bra type stuff to put on the leading edges to protect them.

On our desert racer we zip tied hose over the rear nerf bar. If we didn't the constant pebble blast from the front tire would work harden the tube causing it to crack.

FirstToy · 10-28-06, 11:07 AM

skillet,
the best thing is to call Ken and ask him about it.

I touch up the sliders/bumpers w a little sanding (or a file for gouges) and hit it w/ some semi-gloss black spray paint. You can't even see the diff. it looks great.

that's a big area so maybe hit it w/ some primer and then spray. should look good as new. that's the quickest, cheapest way.

I have hit rocks w/ where it only marked the powdercoat, while others go thru... in the same areas as you, I have 'sandblasting' but more minor (like your pass. side). i'm starting to get a bit on hte rocker cladding as well but that's what happens w/ you run w/o mudflaps...

groucho · 10-28-06, 11:50 AM

The pictures look typical of undercure, causing the powder to become brittle. This is especially the case when primer is used.

Remember, powdercoat has long been sold as a "tougher than wet-paint" finish. While it does have certain advantages over wet paint, it is not indestructable. When powdercoat fails during application due to cosmetics and such, it is then sandblasted off for re-application. The cure process is the most critical in proper adhesion.

Therefore, it might be understandable for powdercoat to chip off when driving where lots of gravel and sand are going to beat up the powdercoat finish.

Listen to Slee, his idea is probably the best for the $$$ once you touch up the bare spots.