[reffug]

Ok were gonna stick this for a week and then proceed to clean it up a little if necessary and put it in the FAQ as previously mentioned.

So without further ado.....

>Post up You Dual Battery Solutions/Set-Ups

>Parts where you got them

>How you went about installing the system (step by step if possible)

>Anything else someone would need to know to repeat the process

>Pictures are a MUST!!!


Please keep the chat to a minimum and only relating to someones clarification if necessary in regards to a solution involving there system.

Thank you,

Management (reffug & Romer)

[Cruiserhead05]

IPOR(ironpigoffroad.com) Dual Battery System.

- Washer Relocator Bracket.
- Surepower battery seperator.
- O.E. 2nd battery tray
- All necc. 2ga and 14ga. wire
- Mil-spec terminals
- Battery hold down bracket with different j-hooks for optima

All parts included in one kit, pre terminated, crimped, and heat shrunk.

Straight forward installation: Connecting both batteries, ground new battery at vehicle body and frame. Tap into 12V signal from the cruise control under dash for SurePower battery seperator.

Kit also includes extra 14ga. wire for dash mounted LED to show when self-jump is activated.

No 4-way marine switch neccesary b/c seperator has ECU to control the batteries although a switch can easely be added.

Cost- $500 + 2nd battery of choice

[Mars]

Can we get you folks to give an estimate on the cost of this mod overall? How much cash are we looking at here with the premade kits vs do it yourself??

M

[Beowulf]

Marshall,
We don't like to talk about how much things cost. Ya never know when the CFO might be reading these posts.
-B-

[Cruiserhead05]

Edited post w/ cost

[Cruiserdrew]

This is a year old but details the Hellroaring system:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...t=dual+battery

Cost info: Hellroaring Parts-----$250
D31M Optima-------$200
Wire/Cable----------$80 approx

I still run the same system. Absolutely no issues from day 1.

[clownmidget]

Ken & Reffug, it'd be pretty nice (as well as respectful to one of the pioneers) to link up George Scolaro's website detailing his install (http://george4wd.taskled.com/auxbat.html). It has the Toyota parts numbers right off the top for the tray and battery hold down which would allow folks to call Dan up and get the ball rolling quickly. His "do it yourself" management system works great too. This is what I've got and his washer bottle re-locater with the Corolla bottle allows you to have the dual batteries and a s/c or t/c.

This is an exceptionally crummy photo but it shows the relocated washer bottle that George developed.

[ManrigDude]

My dual-batt setup consists of the following (see more details on my ROTW):

Hellroaring Isolator
Optima Blue Top in primary battery position
Slee washer bottle relocation kit
Factory battery tray (for earlier FJ 80) for passenger side
Mean Green "Hi Output" Alternator


I went with the Optima blue top for its deep cycle / starting capabiltiy and for its terminal configuration (top posts and marine accessory posts). The isolator is mounted on an open/flat spot high up on the firewall. The second battery gets very little use (only emergency starting when the primary batt is low) so any standard starting battery will work fine.

The Hellroaring isolator works GREAT. I would do the exact same setup again. The isolator is totally automatic and the LED indicator light gives you instant diagnostics of your charging system at all times. If the light goes out when the motor is running, you are exceeding your alternator output (either due to high load ie winching, lights, etc or an alternator problem) and the isolator has separated the batteries to protect your 2nd battery.

The Mean Green alternator on the other hand is a complete waste of money. It does NOT put out any more current than the factory alternator. That company completely LIES on their spec sheet and should be ashamed of themselves

Overall, the dual battery system is a must have. With an automatic transmission, if you accidently run the battery down (or have an alternator problem) out in the middle of nowhere, your gonna be walkin'!

[RavenTai]

I refreshed the pics in this post from a wile ago.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/35679-dual-battery-w-pic%92s-verbose-post385788.html

[Hltoppr]

Since mine's a 1992, I had to do things a bit differently....

I used an Optima Blue top marine battery and a simple isolator. Very simple set up, with the accessory battery located in the rear cargo compartment. 4ga. battery cable runs between the isolator in the engine bay and the accessory battery.

Works great!

-H-

[Hltoppr]

A couple more pics.

-H-

[Romer]

Here is another good discussion on Dual Battery Systems:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/85280-simple-dual-battery-approach.html

[Mike S]

There was an exhaustive discussion of this topic in Outfitting about 6 or 9 months ago. Pages and pages of methods, pictures, philosophy, and some BS.

Search is your pal.

M

[Mickldo]

I fitted my 80 with a ARB dual battery kit. The kit came with a battery tray, solenoid and wiring. The wiring was only about 6mm from memory but was sufficient while the only accessories were the fridge,rock lights and fluros. After I got my winch I upgraded to 32mm wire (2B&S). As my 80 has a 1HZ I don't have to worry about the ECM so the solenoid is fine. The solenoid is fitted with a diode. I asked an autoelec mate and he said this helps prevent surges while the solenoid is switching. The battery is a Trojan deep cycle and have found it to handle dual battery duties admirably. As I have a 35min each way commute to work every day I can run my fridge 24/7 with out having to worry about the batteries.

[Boston Mangler]

Here is a link to the details of mine:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/dualbats.htm

Here it is in a nutshell:

[Romer]

4dmalamute's setup from this thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/88996-i-finished-dual-battery-set-up.html

I will copy it here for completeness

Originally Posted by 4dmalamute

Well, I finally finished up the project. It was actually really easy and straight forward. I ordered up the painless battery kit, and the painless auxillary battery terminal kit, along with the battery tray and parts from Cdan (Thanks again for all the parts and info). It is a simple set up and only takes a few hours.....even though I extended it over three days..........little by little then off to work was the reason. Anyway, here are some shots of the set up. Opitma red for main and Optima yellow for second. I sort of ran out of places to mount the switch so I put it next to the fuse box in the dash. It will work fine there. Anyway, here it is. Now time to save for the winch.

[elmariachi]

My Painless Wiring Install is here

[tech_dog]

Here's one more approach.

This is a custom marine based system, and includes a description of what I did to relocate the resonator/silencer instead of removing it:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/93130-my-dual-battery-setup.html

T.

[Romer]

Here is a Sure Power Set-up that is posted in the following link:


http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/94148-my-surepower-dual-battery-install.html

Originally Posted by stlcruiser

Greetings:

After extensive reading and searching on what would be the best dual battery system to meet my needs and future needs, I decided to go with the Surepower. This unit is a selenoid based system that automatically isolates the batteries when they are not being charged (engine off). It automatically combines both batteries for charging once the main (starting) battery has recharged to its full capacity (engine on). I have a manual switch to combine both batteries for jump starting a weak main battery or to conect both batteries with the engine off. This is a lighted switch that lets me know if I have it in the manual mode. This switch overrides the automatic functions.

As it was time for a new battery, I choose to get 2 identical Walmart Everstart Maxx's. As my accessory usage is light I felt a deep cycle would not be necessay. Also, the constant charging from the alternator I felt would shorten deep cycle's life. As there is a 3 year replacement warrenty, I felt is was worth a try.

I had to eliminate the silencer and use the Napa hose that was recommened in another thread for us 94' owners. I used Slees washer bottle relocation kit. Second battery tray and hardware from Cdan. Two gauge welding cable (very flexible and high grade). 150 amp fuse and holder from Hellroaring (thanks Beo) to fuse the long run from the main battery to the Surepower unit. All cable was cut to custom length, soldered lugs, heat shrinked, and protected with split loom. The long run between the radiator and condensor was further protected with 1/2" flexible conduit (the 2 gauge fits perfectly inside.) The dash switch was run through the firewall. Military style battery terminals were used. Auxillary battery was grounded to the chassie from an existing threaded nut welded to the frame.

For those of you considering the Surepower, I hope this answers some of your questions. All in all this has been one of the most satisfying mods to date.

Steve
94' 160,000

[Romer]

There are a lot of good choices for a Dual Battery Systems. I debated between them in this thread

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/93700-dual-battery-controller-choices-decisions-decisions.html

I almost went with the painless because I liked the manual configuration. I also wanted to run my accessories of the backup.

I decided on the Hellroaring system from:

http://www.hellroaring.com/

You get the same manual configuration capability with the other systems, PLUS you get the automatic protection capability. I decided to follow the advice of the manufacturer and have all the accessories run off the main. This meant I needed a deep cycle main battery.

So, I am running a Optima Yellow Top for my main battery and an Orbital for my back-up battery.

I used Cruiserdrews technique and installed the unit and the ground fuse on the backside of the battery tray. I do plan on covering the terminals and battery posts better.

I made one modification to the Hellroaring system not posted here. I took out a cover plate for the a dash "Spare Slot" and drilled two holes. I then took apart the remote case that came with the unit (Optional purchase) and installed the switch and led in the cover plate. This integrated the switch and led into the dash, rather than having the remote box attached somewhere.

[Cruiserdrew]

I like the way you did the switch/led in the cab. I may copy that with your permission! Looks like a clean install.

[Beowulf]

Nicely done Ken. As I mentioned in another thread, I also copied CruiserDrew's Hellroaring install.

It meets all the criteria... Exceptionally low voltage loss, automatic, easy to operate and much, much cheaper than the "perfect" alternative that I won't mention. The owner of Hellroaring is a guy named Mike and he is also who I spoke with when asking questions. He is knowledgeable and not pushy at all.

All in all, this is a great alternative for those seeking an inexpensive and bullet-proof dual battery system. Just follow Andrew's install notes and you'll be good to go. He even gives cable lengths, wire sizes, and sources for all the bits and pieces.

-B-

[spressomon]

Hey B...I know you still have a burr over the whole Powergate pre-sales info thing but I gotta tell ya mine works great. Yes it costs a little more but it's significantly smaller (which has made a difference in my engine bay with everything I have stuffed in there) and virtually no heat-up...which tells me the darn thing is working pretty efficiently and no mechanical connections (other than the battery cables of course )


Just another perspective...

[Romer]

Originally Posted by spressomon

Hey B...I know you still have a burr over the whole Powergate pre-sales info thing but I gotta tell ya mine works great. Yes it costs a little more but it's significantly smaller (which has made a difference in my engine bay with everything I have stuffed in there) and virtually no heat-up...which tells me the darn thing is working pretty efficiently and no mechanical connections (other than the battery cables of course )


Just another perspective...

Do a write-up on your system and post it here. This is an FAQ thread and I don't want to get into the same discussion we have had in other threads.

[Grench]

OK. I know that this doesn't have a lot of finesse. It is, admittedly, an overkill brute force dual battery install.

The first thing you're likely to notice is that there are two big ass marine switches. These are rated to 1200 amps for 30 seconds each. They're also radioactive. The dials are black lettering on a Tritium background. Pop the hood at night and they're two ghostly circles.

I custom bent the switch mounting bracket and brace using 12ga galvanized steel and a 100 year old brake. It fits -barely- -at an angle- where the horn used to mount.

Yeah, I have more work to do on the horn. I'm wanting to put in something nicer than factory. Unfortunately, all of the auto parts stores here sell the exact same crap for aftermarket horns, and they're all plastic shelled junk. If anyone has a line on high quality LOUD horns, I'm all ears so to speak. I'll be relocating them regardless. I had room for one of the factory horns, so I left it in for the moment. Sounds pathetic though.

The batteries are both new Optima D31a Yellow tops. Each one has 1125 CA @ 32 F. So, if you think about it, it is more like a quad battery install...

The left battery tray is new and is the part for a 1992 FJ80. I got it and the requisit bracket & J hooks from www.toyotapartsdealer.com. That was before I knew about Dan or this website.

The water bottle is on a Slee relocation kit.

The cables are stout. They are Ancor Marine tin coated copper 2/O battery cables. These 'double ought' cables are a bit of a bitch to work with. They bend, but those 180 degree turns you'll see on the bottom of the switches were a trick.

All 4 terminals are mil spec with 5/16" bolts.

The cable lugs are Ancor Marine tin coated copper and were put on with an impact crimper tool. All lugs have heat shrink. I've tried to put reinforcing looms on the cables where they might rub.

The left switch runs the winch load. When I get around to it, I also plan to run a fork lift charger connector out the front and connect it to this switch as well. This will be my 'jump start anything' port as well as 12v DC power to whatever I want from the front end.

The right switch runs the house load. The output from this feeds back over the top of the DS battery to the (+) bus stud mounted to the back side of the DS tray using stainless steel fasteners.

The (-) bus stud is on the back of the DS tray as well. Both batteries and the winch ground to this point. The batteries ground using OO tin coated copper marine cables as well.

The Warn M12K is opperational now and no longer the worlds most expensive license plate bracket.

Next steps?
1. Circuit protection. I realized after I finished the install that although there is protection via fusible links for the house load, there isn't anything on the winch load OR on these cables I have. If one of these monsters grounds out it will weld pretty quickly with these batteries. So, the plan is to put a 300 amp fuse in line between the cable lug and the mil-spec terminals. They're on order.

2. Get new horns and mount them somewhere new. Whats the opinion on using train air horns mounted inside the ARB?

3. Run a pair of cables from the house buses back through the firewall and to the pannel where the factory sub is. I have a lot of toys in mind that require electricity back there. Yeah, 1 would be power, but I'm big on making sure that I have adequate ground. Body grounds are fine for lights. For anything over a 15 amp load, I want a direct to battery (or near so) ground if I can get it.

Fun fun. Next posts are the pictures.

[Grench]

First set of pics....

[Grench]

Second set of pics.

[Grench]

Third set of pics.

[Grench]

Oh, the little red bows on the optimas are actually tubular webbing tied around the battery and knotted with a water knot. Although not as heavy as the type 27F batteries I had in it, these are still heavy batteries. I wanted handles to be able to get them in and out.

[tech_dog]

Originally Posted by Grench

Oh, the little red bows on the optimas are actually tubular webbing tied around the battery and knotted with a water knot. Although not as heavy as the type 27F batteries I had in it, these are still heavy batteries. I wanted handles to be able to get them in and out.

Grench,

Can we get a schematic? There's a lot going on there.

Thanks,

T.