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Old 06-17-06, 11:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1/4 panel rust fix... how far do I need to go?

any thoughts on patching rear fenderwells? I plated a small area on my front fender, it looks ok, still need to apply some putty to smooth it out. This truck is a 87' with original paint and stripes in good condition. I just want to touch up the paint.

Sound I plate the rear edge or buy a patch panel for the rear fender lip? That rear bubble in the 1/4 looks kinda tricky to form without alot of putty. Not to mention the rolled edge wound be pretty visable.

anybody make a fenderwell panel?


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Old 06-18-06, 07:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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so it has the 3pc side? or is it a 4runner?

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Old 06-18-06, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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87' 4runner 1st generation, Damn IFS!!!

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Old 06-20-06, 08:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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http://www.toyotafiberglass.com




there is absolutly NO point in trying to repair the rust ..


but if you must ..

http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/sheet_metal.htm
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Old 06-24-06, 08:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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wow, prices are pretty high. But you get what you pay for most of the time...
I'm breaking out the bean bag, plastic hammers and the mig. Gonna make Jees James look like a Fag!

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Various other toys 87 4runner, Motorcycles Ducati and Triumphs with an old Mach III in the mix.
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Old 06-24-06, 10:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by F-junker
wow, prices are pretty high.
your kidding right ? .. phone the dealer and compare ..... or have you another source ????





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Last edited by BJ_bumperboy; 06-24-06 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 07-13-06, 07:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I can fab up a panel to repair what needs replaced in about 1-2hours and weld it in in about 20 min. finish time on the metal with a grinder and flap wheel 1hr max. body putty/ glazing putty and airfile time 1hr, primer and sanding then finish.

Yes, it's alot of work but less than stiching in a whole fender panel, there are very few, people on this earth that can do a fender bubble without any mud or glaze. It's a ness. evil so why go further than what you need to do and create more work. I'm old school, when you could get a patch panel for any car practically for under 30 bucks. Those days are long gone along with all the old VW's they where welded to.

I'm sorry I didn't buy a set of factory steel quarter panels when I had the chance, at 250 bucks a side they would have been a great investment keeping my old bucket nice and tidy for thhe 20 odd years.

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Old 07-16-06, 05:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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your right for the most part ... on your "OLD SCHOOL THINKING"

thing is , you now CAN buy a complete replacement panel for 250 ish ... 20years ago prices and modern technology.



problem is ... you know nothing about fiberglass.


and i'm just the guy to educate you .. I can't say for all shops , but these guys use only the best . http://www.toyotafiberglass.com

Like any other industry , the "fiberglass industry" has come leaps and bounds from the "old days" new resins .. new production ways .. new application equiptment , new new new ... for the most part .. shrinkage .. spider cracks .. and telephotoing are gone with the Dino. we're now in the 21 Century , and "old school thinking" has to be changed .

These guys use a special ISO resin in ALL there products ... NO shrinkage ..NO telephotoing .. and tough as nails .. I would put them up against a steel one anyday .


This WHOLE panel ... both sides ... can be replaced in a weekend easly , 12 hrs min ... and with NO bondo .

They can even do a complete panel in *kevlar (bullit proof) or even Carbon fiber ... are you kidding me .....




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Old 07-17-06, 11:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Education of a hillbilly

You telling a mulitiple corvette owner about fiberglass, That a good one. How many of these projects have you done? I'm not being a smartass here, I'm fairly open minded. I would like to see some more really world photos and info on this panels being used? I'm still stuck on steel for the most part as it can be repaired fairly easily. Have you ever seen a panel on a Corvette that's been hit, it cracks and nbot just in one place, thay are a bitch to repair. I have had many buddies with firberglass jeep bodies how really WHEEL, far harder than I ever will, and they have all been taken with the extensive labor in repairing tree rubs, and trail rash.

Please don't take it personally, but I'm still hainging with steel. Too bad it won't flex and return to shape as many newer fiber-composites will. I had an MGB-GT with fiberglass fender flares grafted, they were beautiful and to do it in steel would have cost a fortune. I think I would definitely go with fibre panels if I had extensive reust of damage, but for me it's just overkill at this point. thanks for the Education! Take care kenn

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Old 07-21-06, 07:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-junker
You telling a mulitiple corvette owner about fiberglass, That a good one. How many of these projects have you done?
well first of all heres my last vette ...
YES ... I do know corvettes .. and I do KNOW fiberglass ... and YES .. I'm the guy to tell ya .

your buddies "JEEP TUPS" were all built with a method called chopping ... if you dont know what that is .. just ask me . Its not a strong product at all ... there in the business of production , sorry to say .. NOT quality . =ing a good looking product ... but not durable .

These panels , from toyotafiberglass.com are all HANDLAID .. Way stronger and WAY more durable .

Bottom line ... I have done Many .... Many of these ... I have been working with glass for quite a few years ..

THIS IS THE BEST OPTION .
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Old 07-21-06, 08:12 PM
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Old 07-28-06, 11:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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76? Now if we could just figure out that nose cone tailcone warpage thing! Good info!

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