I did a quick search and didn't really get a solution. '94 22re. If the temp gets to around 32 or below, it will not start until it gets warmer. Will turn over (crank) all day long, but will not start. Any ideas?
32 or below.......won't start!? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjfodee
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Sounds like the battery is OK, so must be a fuel issue. Either water in fuel freezing up, or not enough fuel called for by ECU for cold weather. Try a couple of shots of starter fluid(ether) to see if it fires up on that. John
2ndGenToyotaFan
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I'd check for spark when it won't fire as well. You could have an intermittent temp related connection somewhere that's stopping power on it's way to something important... Or maybe try jumping the fuel pump at the diagnostic port.
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- #4
Thanks I'll check it out. Went home for lunch (70 deg) and she fired right up. This is twice thats happened. Both times it had 1/4 tank, but I've never had a problem with freezing before. At least not here in Arkansas.
Cold start system not working? There is a separate injector that goes directly to the intake. You can unplug the electrical connector and check the resistance. Should have between 2-4 ohms according to the repair manual. I'd still check for fuel and fire.
Bogo
FOOF
32F is when water freezes. Sounds like some is freezing and causing a gap to form in a critical electrical circuit for ignition, fuel pump or fuel injection. Check the wiring, and relays going to and from the distributer, coil, and spark plugs, fuel pump, and fuel injection system. Look for water in the crimps, and connectors. Protecting of the electrical connectors from being splashed by water may be needed to keep the problem away. Sometimes dielectric grease is needed at connectors. I know Toyota has some on it's sparkplug wire connectors and says not to wipe it off when you change them. You would need a high temperature dielectric grease for that use which may be hard to find. Toyota also has a rubber shroud that protects the distributer from direct water spray.
Note, usually water in fuel freezes at a bit lower temperature due to the impurities from the fuel, but it is still possible. Run a couple tanks of dry gas, or use ethanol based gas. If you routinely use ethanol gas, then water in the fuel system is not likely the issue, but you could have gotten a contaminated tank.
Without cold start injectors working, it will still start, it will just take longer.
BTW, learn the ways of the FSM. There is a good troubleshooting section for the engine. The path to FSM enlightenment begins in the FAQ thread.
Note, usually water in fuel freezes at a bit lower temperature due to the impurities from the fuel, but it is still possible. Run a couple tanks of dry gas, or use ethanol based gas. If you routinely use ethanol gas, then water in the fuel system is not likely the issue, but you could have gotten a contaminated tank.
Without cold start injectors working, it will still start, it will just take longer.
BTW, learn the ways of the FSM. There is a good troubleshooting section for the engine. The path to FSM enlightenment begins in the FAQ thread.
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- #7
Ok, so about a week ago it got down to 35 and still the same problem. I cranked on it for a good couple of minutes and it finally started up. That made me think cold start injector. I had a spare from another intake, so I swapped them out. This morning it's 35 again, and the same thing. Took a couple of minutes for it to start. I did notice that when I swapped the injectors it seemed like there was alot of air in the line (lots of pressurized fuel/air spray). I don't remember it being like that before, seems like it just dripped fuel when I've disconnected it in the past. Thoughts?
Have you run a fuel pressure test?
Dump some of that heet stuff in the tank.
It is possible that your fuel pump or fuel regulator are bleeding off pressure when starting. The normal pressure is about 35 psi. I hate trying to test pressure for this engine as the fuel plumbing makes testing it difficult.
Also to eliminte the possibility of too much raw fuel during cold starting keep the pedal depressed while cranking if it starts then you have a situation where the mixture is too rich. At cold temperature fuel does not evaporate easily and by doing this you are forcing the ecu to lean the mixture. I am almost leaning to this scenario in which case it would indicate that an injector could be leaking.
Also to eliminte the possibility of too much raw fuel during cold starting keep the pedal depressed while cranking if it starts then you have a situation where the mixture is too rich. At cold temperature fuel does not evaporate easily and by doing this you are forcing the ecu to lean the mixture. I am almost leaning to this scenario in which case it would indicate that an injector could be leaking.
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Next time it gives you trouble and you get it fired up, turn it right off and see if it starts back up... If the fuel pressure is bleeding off it should start up the second time with no problem.
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- #12
Been waiting on it to get cold again so I could do some diagnosis. I'm getting fire, and I'm getting fuel. However, after cranking on it for a bit, when it does finally start I smell raw fuel. I am getting power to the cold start injector per FSM. I disconnected the cold start the other day and it seemed to be harder to start. I have not tried the cold start injector cup test yet to see if it is dripping fuel. I did the fuel pump jump this morning and still no start.It will start, just takes a bit. But only when it's at least 35 or below. It was 37 yesterday morn and it started just fine. After it starts, it has no problems starting again.
If you have power to the cold start injector, key it on when cold but don't turn it over. Crack the banjo fitting loose to see if you actually have fuel at the cold start injector. If not, its probably your coolant temp sensor gone bad. Its to the right of your throttle body when looking at the engine. I believe most were a green plug.
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- #14
I read something about the temp sensor so I got another just to see. First one I tried my CEL came on and gave me a code 22. Took it out, put the old one back in and CEL went off. Ordered another, installed it, and am still having the hard start problem. I'm starting to think maybe an air problem. I know the AFM either works or it doesn't, and the truck runs great. What about the IACV? Could it be sticking in the cold weather? Sometimes my idle does act a little crazy.
Bogo
FOOF
There is a circuit, switch, in the VAFM that must be closed for the engine to run. If you can, put the VAFM into the freezer. Once it is real cold test it when you move the flapper inside it. You could have a joint in that circuit opening up when it gets cold out. When you are looking at the electrical connector on the VAFM the resistance between the two terminals on the left end should be infinite when the engine is off, and drop to zero when air is flowing through the VAFM. Another thing you can do to test it is on a cold no start day you can use a hair dryer to heat it up to see if it works. The hair dryer heat test can be used on other parts too. When doing the heat tests, use some some cardboard pieces to keep the heat from effecting areas you aren't currently heating to test.
I still think you have a bit of water in an electrical connector and it is breaking the circuit when it freezes.
I still think you have a bit of water in an electrical connector and it is breaking the circuit when it freezes.
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- #16
Thanks Bogo, I'll try that.
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- #17
Okay, the VAFM is not the problem. Gonna take a hard look at the time switch.
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- #18
Alright, I tested the switch as per FSM (linked below). Between terminals STA-STJ checked good. The STA-Ground came up open (no resistance at all). So does that mean the CSI is dumping fuel all the time? That would explain alot of the other problems I've had, but I don't see how that would cause the hard start issue. Or, could it not be sending enough fuel when cold? Either way the switch is not within specs. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/39colds.pdf
Looks like an open right there would cause the switch not to operate. I think #2 is more likely. Not enough fuel on cold start. In the diagram it basically looks like a relay so if the STA is not energized it doesn't close the switch side to close the circuit on the STJ side which is the side that the cold start injector is on. Hope that helps.
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- #20
Thanks Sam, I just robbed a switch from a friend of mine. It checked out good, so I will find out for sure in the morning if that's the problem.
