Timing Chain noise... (1 Viewer)

[BlueCruiser84]

I just bought a 1990 pickup with a 22re, all stock as far as I know. I'm thinking it is going to need a new timing chain one of these days, but I am not totally sure what to listen for or where to listen for it. It has 179k on it, but I think it has been changed at least once due to the massive amounts of rtv smeared all over the timing cover and front of the engine.

Using a screwdriver "stethoscope" I can hear all kinds of what I think is valve noise when I put it on the valve cover. When I put it on the front of the timing cover whirr and a light clicking, which I imagined as that chain moving around the sprockets... but what do I know?

Standing by the engine while it's running I can't hear much because of the valves and exhaust leaks.

What sort of sounds/symptoms should I be looking for? I know I can pull the valve cover and look down with a flashlight. What am I looking for when I have the cover off?

Thanks

 

[toyminator]

Timing chain noise usually doesn't have a pattern because the noise is the chain slapping either the timing chain cover or the valve cover. You can take the valve cover off and look at it and usually see if the chain has been hitting it or not. It will look like 2 grooves carved into the aluminum the width of the chain.
The chain gets loose when the guides break or the tensioner gets weak.

You are more likely to hear the noise when it's idleing or as it's returnig to idle after revving it up. It's usually quiet under acceleration.

The 22re is a non clearance engine so if it breaks or jumps time you will bend the valves so don't ignore it.

Here is a pic of the inside of the timing chain cover.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Good info, thanks. I'm ordering the chain kit tomorrow from Engnblder.

For a first timer, what kinda time are we looking at to change one of these? I won't be removing the head or dropping the oil pan. If I have everything I need, do you think I could knock it out in a day? Any tips? I know about the "hidden" bolt. Anything else?

 

[toyminator]

besides the "hidden" bolt in the top of the head make sure you keep track of where the bolts go. They are different lengths and can screw things up if you use the wrong ones.

Make sure you take out the bolts from the oil pan that go into the timing chain cover. I think there are 4 of them.

Throw a rag over the exposed oil pan to keep the broken pieces of the chain guides from falling into the oil pan.

It can be really hard to get the timing chain cover back in between the head and oil pan sometimes. On one of mine I ended up cutting the head gasket off at the block and using silicone between the head and timing chain cover.

If you plan on keeping the truck for a while I would really invest in either factory guides and tensioner or the metal guides from DOA racing. D.O.A. Racing Engines I had to redo one after 20k when I used a cheap aftermarket kit.

 

[arndog123]

If the guides are broken I'd drop the pan so you can get all the pieces out. That's just me though.

 

[toyminator]

If the guides are broken I'd drop the pan so you can get all the pieces out. That's just me though.

That ain't easy on a non lifted IFS truck.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If you don't drop the pan, and just try to slide the cover back in, there's a very good chance you'll end up with a leak...

You can drop the pan on a stock IFS truck without dropping the diff, you just pull the 2 rear mount bolts and let the diff pivot down in the back... You have to take the oil pickup off with the pan still down there and slide them both out together, but it is possible.

 

[arndog123]

Dropping the pan on an IFS truck isnt too bad if you press the shaft bolts off (w/ a c-clamp) and grind the splines off of 'em.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

As far as dropping the pan, I'll have to see how messed up the guides are and then decide if I feel like fussing with it. I am tossing around the idea of a SAS so I was going to put off dropping the pan until then.

I planned on using the timing chain set #TKS900SR from engnbldr with the drivers side steel rail. I have heard tons of people suggest it, but are you telling me to go another route? It is certainly priced well, but maybe it is not worth it? I don't run the piss outta my engine, so I was thinking I would be ok with something that is not quite top 'o the line.

Brian

 

[KLF]

I have used a couple of those engnbldr kits in other engines, they are decent quality, although I have had fitment troubles getting the cover to fit over the steel guide, had to do a bit of grinding. That being said, I have DOA steel guides in my engine, really good stuff, and I will only use an OEM tensioner.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Does the engnbldr kit come with a tensioner? There isn't a description of the kit I was just assuming it had everything I needed.

Anyone have a list of what comes in the engnbldr kit?

 

[KLF]

IIRC I think it comes with a chain, the 2 sprockets, one plastic and one metal guide, a tensioner, and new bolts for the guides. I can't remember if he includes a new front main seal (which I would toss anyway and get OEM). Oh yeah, and gaskets for the cover that IMO were TERRIBLE. They just didn't fit right, and I predicted they were gonna leak. I bought OEM ones.

(do you sense a theme here?)

 

[92 TOY]

Does the engnbldr kit come with a tensioner? There isn't a description of the kit I was just assuming it had everything I needed.

Anyone have a list of what comes in the engnbldr kit?

yep...comes with a tensioner.

the kit i got had the oil pump, water pump, necessary gaskets, metal backed guides / chain / tensioner and timing cover......did the headgasket while i was in there too. i can't remember the price so i'm not gonna guess

shoot Ted an email and ask him any question....he's quick to respond too.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

yep...comes with a tensioner.

the kit i got had the oil pump, water pump, necessary gaskets, metal backed guides / chain / tensioner and timing cover......did the headgasket while i was in there too. i can't remember the price so i'm not gonna guess

shoot Ted an email and ask him any question....he's quick to respond too.

And you are pleased with this kit, so far?

 

[toy4xfun]

i used a kit from lc engineering, with steel guides, no leaks from any thing, also if your engine has a lot of miles get a new harmonic balancer! and i can not stress a new harmonic balancer enough!

 

[EVILSPOTTER]

What models were equipped with harmonic balancers? I'd like to be able to try something other than the crank pulley that all of my 2Xr family engines came equipped with.

 

[toy4xfun]

oh forgive me, crank pulley funny though if you search for harmonic balancer it comes up.and also just to be an ass and i am in an arguing mood, it does have a chunk of steel with a rubber inlay to balance out any thing that needs to be balanced. and i could be wrong but there is some one on this board that knows this better than i do.

and there will always be those that worry about word, crank pulley= harmonic balancer!

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Yeah... my balancer took a dive on me earlier this year I think... It was a good time for sure, I think there's a thread with some pictures... Search this section for theads started by me. I'd at least inspect yours while it's off.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I don't think I can ignore the engnblder kit for 60 bucks. Everything I have heard about him is good.

I also just stumbled across an 85 4runner that I may trade the truck for so we'll see how this all turns out. If I end up doing it it will be with the engnblder kit and I will let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks!!

 

[92 TOY]

And you are pleased with this kit, so far?

yes, indeed.

like i said, shoot him an email from his site and just tell him what you are doing and he will tell you what you need. you can also search him on EBAY and he has kits ready to go there too.

PS....i ordered a new crankshaft bolt from LC Engineering since i banged mine up pretty bad getting it off.

i have a complete build thread on YOTATECH (same user name 92 TOY) of doing the head and timing chain job with dropping the pan and all that while the motor was still in the truck.

almost 4,000 miles since i did the job and no problems.