89 1/2 ton 4x4 SR5 Pickup

kiddo · 04-10-05, 05:38 PM

I bought this truck used from the original owner, and the body/interior is in excellent shape. Very little rust and no dents etc.

One thing he did bring to my attention is there is a definite ticking inside the engine, I almost think that one of the lifters is making it. My question is, does anyone have a write-up on how to change camshafts, lifters and valves? I haven't picked up a haynes book yet, its on my to do list for the week. Figured i'd poke around the internet and see if I can pester some of the pros for some un-biased answers before i go see a toyota dealership!

Also, whats the best way to check that the 4x4 is as it should be? I cruised around a bit in 4H and 4L going from wheel stop to wheel stop and it seemed smooth enough. Any other tips/hints?

Really appreciate any answers, thanks everyone!

tonkota · 04-10-05, 06:15 PM

Is this a 22R-E or a 3.0 V6?

The ticking noise could be the injectors working. They are kinda noisy.

If you want to change the cam shaft on the 22R-E, Just take off the valve cover. It's right there. If you have the V6, I have no idea.

Bear80 · 04-10-05, 06:29 PM

it's hard to say about the clicking. is it the 3vz engine or 22re? I have both and I know my 3ve makes alittle clicking sound that is heard really only inside the cab....if you define clicking like I do. Never worried about it either, since I don't notice it with the hood up. Figure it's valve adjustments, and I don't want to mess with pulling the valve covers again. My 22RE make a "knocking" sound which I am lead to believe is wear on the rocker arm shafts since I rebuilt it and it has a new cam and the valves are set correctly. Also the injectors on both engines do make a clicking noise, which is only heard with the hood up.

Ok if you read all that HERE is probably what it is: check the seal on the steering shaft at the fire wall. I bet it's worn out and is letting alot of engine noise into the cab. It's really cheap to get and easy to fix.

For the 4wheel drive, if the axle boots are not busted, and you don't hear any gear noise from the transfercase...ie while in 4hi or low then you're golden. Since it's new to you, better to check all fuild levels and give it a good once over with grease at all joints and zerk fittings.

Oh and it's also good to pull the hubs and repack wheel bearings, it's not as bad as you think, I can do mine in about 3hours for both sides.

Bear80 · 04-10-05, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonkota

Is this a 22R-E or a 3.0 V6?

The ticking noise could be the injectors working. They are kinda noisy.

If you want to change the cam shaft on the 22R-E, Just take off the valve cover. It's right there. If you have the V6, I have no idea.

Whoa, never just pull head bolts and change cam! You have to remove the head bolts to change cam and in doing so you will compromise the head gasket! To change cam you MUST change head gasket to do it 100% correctly.

tonkota · 04-10-05, 06:48 PM

I don't remember the cam being held by the head bolts, but it's been a long time since I've been into my engine that far. So, if you have to take the head bolts loose to change the cam, then yes, get the head gasket too.

Sorry if I confused anyone.

Bear80 · 04-10-05, 08:50 PM

yeah I never figured out why toyota made it that way. But you have to pull the rocker arms which are held by the head bolts, to get the cam out. I guess it was kinda one of those things that just don't get changed.

Also if it is the cam, it's due to parking on an incline or decline. The lobes of the cam oil kinda like the crank, by diping into standing oil. If you park on an inlince the number 1 lobes wear and delince it's number 4 lobes. By parking on the inlince or decline oil drains from the valleys in the head and the lobes do not oil until oil pressure is up and trown around in the valve cover. You should be ok parking on hills for short periods but not for long periods like over night.

kiddo · 04-11-05, 09:25 PM

Thanks guys, just getting my saftey inspection done so I can register and insure it. My brother knows a guy in town here who is supposed to be really good with toyotas. Before I go tinkering around i'll stop in and check out his opinion.

I will check that seal by the steering shaft, but i'm not sure if thats it because the noise inside the cab is quite loud.

Have any hints/tips on repacking the bearings? hehe

Bear80 · 04-11-05, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiddo

Have any hints/tips on repacking the bearings? hehe

Practice and some

Getting the hubs off are the hardest becuase of the cone washers on the hub body. If they have never have been off, they will be alittle stubborn. My technique was to take a steel not brass punch, and hit each stud. BUT put an old nut on the suds before you wack away so you don't mess the end of the studs, or any threads.

kiddo · 04-11-05, 09:40 PM

Forgot to mention, its the 3.0 V6!

Bear80 · 04-11-05, 09:46 PM

check that fire wall seal, I bet that's what it is. In my 4runner with the 3ve, it let alot of sound into the cab, on my min with the 22re the seal didn't make a diff same on my fzj80. I think it's just the exhaust, valves combo that makes the 3ve so loud when the seal is toast.

kiddo · 04-12-05, 06:45 PM

Got the safety inspection results back. Got a few tiny things to fix. One is a hot spot on the left rear brake drum (easy fix!). Another is the Pittman Arm and Idler Arm, they have a lot of play in them. The last one is the Inner CV boots on the front driveshafts are torn.

So umm, anyone got a pittman arm and idler arm I could buy?

So, on saturday, the junkyard shopping commences for a few lenses and a drum. Stepdad is gonna help me with the CV boots though!

Tools R Us · 04-12-05, 07:19 PM

If the idler arm bushings are bad, replacing them is an easy deal and will save some cash.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

Bear80 · 04-12-05, 07:22 PM

I'd just get the pit and idler arm at autozone, that's if they are that far north. They carry the "555" brand and for the price they aren't bad.

lenses?? like tail lights are pink? also autozone they're really cheap, or ebay.

so are you saying the drivers side rear drum is warped? in hotspot do you mean it's dragging and heating up? had this same problem in my 86 and it isn't the drum, check the e-brake cable adjustment, most likely it's to tight.

also when you do the inner boots you should do the the outer boots also. the inner joint just slips apart, the outter has to be hammered off because of a c-clip. I know they tell you to pull the outter joing apart to change boots and grease but you can still clean and repack it while its together. After you get the boot off(outter joint), just use some brake cleaner and clean all the old grease out, and just make sure you really work the new grease into all the balls and down into the joint.

also when you pull the axles out, don't try and fish them out like the crappy repair manual tells you to. take the shocks off and pull the 4 bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the lower a arms. If the ball joints have never been changed, they will not want to let go of the a arms, just spray some PB before you start the work and by then a few smacks with a rubber hammer and the arm sould fall away. With the arm hanging down you can get the axles out so much easier. And don't worry about letting the hub hang by the upper ball joint, that's what it does anyway.

Bear80 · 04-12-05, 07:29 PM

oh and for the axle boots, go to O'Reilly's again if they are that far north. Their boots are the cheapest same brand as all the other retailers and carry a lifetime replacement....yeah but you have to pull them off.

anyway, yeah if the ball on the idler arm isn't showing play, get the two new bushings from toyota. I actually put the toyota bushings in my autozone idler arm, since the ones they come with are kinda soft.

one more thing about the cone washers in the hubs, I forgot to mention, a little hammer an't going to work so great, I use a 5lb hammer.

The hubs, and axles should keep a greeny like you busy all weekend. Better get a few packs

kiddo · 04-13-05, 06:00 PM

Lol, thanks a ton for the tips. My stepdad is gonna be helping me out so hopefully it'll go smoothly, hes done it before on some of his trucks.

I'll post again later and let ya know how it turned out.

I checked a couple places here today, I can get the boots for $16 canadian each. I'll go to a toyota dealership on Friday and check into those bushings, would be really nice if that is whats wrong with em!

kiddo · 04-18-05, 07:38 AM

Finally got everything all done up on Sunday. Once we figured out how to squeeze the outer CV boot past the shock and swaybar, it went pretty fast. The Pitman arm and idler arms took about 10 minutes too

One thing that happened however, took out the bearing, cleaned and regreased everything and then when putting it back together one of the nuts that use the cone washers got broken. What is the part called with the bolts attached to it? (Freewheel Hub, or is it part of the brake rotor assembly?). Not sure if im explaining myself properly here, so let me know if its a little foggy and i'll go outside and take a picture!