2ndGenToyotaFan
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So the Caird sat for 3 months this summer with no windsheild, and once it was back together I noticed some goo coming out of the rear axle... First I assumed it was a bad wheel cylinder, but that checked out. So it was rear axle seal time!
I'd say this is about a 2X
job....
Safety first!!! You can't use the parking brake while you're doing this job, so you need to chock the tires. I also put the tire under the axle in case something unforeseen happened.
You can see the goo on my brake drum.
If your brakes haven't been compromised by the leak, then you don't need to remove the drum from the axle. Here's the mess I had on my hands...
Remove the E brake cable pin. (Note: 2nd Gen 4Runners have a different E brake cable set up, you will have to remove the drums and pull the cable out from inside.)
Remove the 4 mounting nuts on the back side of the axle. I like to use the wrench trick on them for extra leverage.
Once the nuts are off all that's left is to loosen the brake line from the back side of the wheel cylinder. I have a small rubber cap that fits on the end of the line nicely to stop too much fluid from coming out, you can wedge the brake pedal down just a little and it will cover the hole in the master cylinder, which will stop the fluid as well.
Once the line is off and plugged, pull the axle out.
With the axle out you should inspect the bearings for excessive play. Mine were tolerable for 317K, but I will be ordering a set next time I have reason to get into the rear axle.
And there's the trouble maker....
Make sure the seals you got are the right size... You did buy Toyota seals right?
There is also a large O ring that keeps dirt and water out of the bearing, I did not get new ones at this time, I just cleaned them up for now.
My preferred method of removing seals... Screwdriver plus hammer...
After cleaning up the end of the axle, use a block of wood or a proper seal installer to tap the seal back into place. Don't forget the O ring and to grease or oil the new seal lip so you don't have a dry start up!!!
Clean up the back side of the axle and bearing before assembly.
Slide the axle back into the housing and assemble in reverse order.
My new used brake shoes installed.
I used:
Rock
Lug wrench
Jack
Hammer
3 or 4 screwdrivers
Small needle nose pliers on E brake cable pin
14 and 18 mm wrenches (18 was to get leverage)
10 mm flare nut wrench for brake line
Wire wheel on a drill
Lots of paper towels and brake cleaner on my nasty brake drum
The bad side took a while because of the cleaning etc. The side that had not failed yet only took 15 minutes or so. Happy wrenching!
I'd say this is about a 2X
job....Safety first!!! You can't use the parking brake while you're doing this job, so you need to chock the tires. I also put the tire under the axle in case something unforeseen happened.
You can see the goo on my brake drum.
If your brakes haven't been compromised by the leak, then you don't need to remove the drum from the axle. Here's the mess I had on my hands...
Remove the E brake cable pin. (Note: 2nd Gen 4Runners have a different E brake cable set up, you will have to remove the drums and pull the cable out from inside.)
Remove the 4 mounting nuts on the back side of the axle. I like to use the wrench trick on them for extra leverage.
Once the nuts are off all that's left is to loosen the brake line from the back side of the wheel cylinder. I have a small rubber cap that fits on the end of the line nicely to stop too much fluid from coming out, you can wedge the brake pedal down just a little and it will cover the hole in the master cylinder, which will stop the fluid as well.
Once the line is off and plugged, pull the axle out.
With the axle out you should inspect the bearings for excessive play. Mine were tolerable for 317K, but I will be ordering a set next time I have reason to get into the rear axle.
And there's the trouble maker....
Make sure the seals you got are the right size... You did buy Toyota seals right?
There is also a large O ring that keeps dirt and water out of the bearing, I did not get new ones at this time, I just cleaned them up for now.
My preferred method of removing seals... Screwdriver plus hammer...
After cleaning up the end of the axle, use a block of wood or a proper seal installer to tap the seal back into place. Don't forget the O ring and to grease or oil the new seal lip so you don't have a dry start up!!!
Clean up the back side of the axle and bearing before assembly.
Slide the axle back into the housing and assemble in reverse order.
My new used brake shoes installed.
I used:
Rock
Lug wrench
Jack
Hammer
3 or 4 screwdrivers
Small needle nose pliers on E brake cable pin
14 and 18 mm wrenches (18 was to get leverage)
10 mm flare nut wrench for brake line
Wire wheel on a drill
Lots of paper towels and brake cleaner on my nasty brake drum
The bad side took a while because of the cleaning etc. The side that had not failed yet only took 15 minutes or so. Happy wrenching!
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