What's a '85, carb, longbed worth?

mabrodis · 02-10-05, 02:16 PM

Someone my brother works with has a '85 Toy truck he's going to sell as soon as he find a dealership with a new Tacoma instock. I haven't seen it yet. It's this guy's daily driver, has been since '85, he bought it new in '85, is a engineer (only one anal enough to drive it that long). Has had many other vehicles, but this was always his DD. It has 120K miles on it, some rust (my brother said, he's seen it, but hasn't yet looked at it up close). It is the carb model, std cab, long-bed. Never been wheeled or anything like that, heck never even taken on the highway (side-streets from where he lives, he's lived in the same house for 27 years!! Again, only a engineer would be that anal!!) He thinks it needs a new clutch, says it feels odd in 4th and 5th sometimes, like the engine is revving up a bit, clutch slipping, etc. With only 120K miles that seems odd to me, but who knows how he drove it. He said it uses about a quart of oil per oil-change. That seems way high, and my guess is a plugged PCV valve or something, I can't imagine a 22R with only 120K miles should use any oil.

I have read gawd-awful amounts on Pirate's site about what you can do to Toy trucks. I probably wouldn't build it up, more buy it to drive for a few months, do some maint on it (replace clutch if actually necessary, do knuckle joints, I'm sure they have never been done, etc), then sell it.

My brother is going to take some pics tomorrow of it, and I'll tell him to look closely for rust on the frame, since apparently that is a known problem area. Yes I've read all I could find on here, timing chain guides, smog items, etc.

Any other things to really check, and from what I described (assuming frame is ok, etc), what kind of price would this fetch?

The guy was willing to sell it for $1000 I think, which initially seemed like a great deal, but honestly I don't know alot about Toy trucks...

Edit: Yes I've already read this thread.

Thanks!
Mark Brodis

Arya Ebrahimi · 02-10-05, 03:09 PM

I bought the one picture below for $700. It's an '86 Xtra Cab w/ auto tranny but no other "luxury" options. 172k miles, bench seat, hand crank windows, etc etc. The cab is solid, bed has VERY minor rust, rear frame rails have surface rust, but nothing major. Motor runs good, tranny shifts well most of the time.

For what you described I'd say $1000 is definately fair.

Ary

theo · 02-10-05, 03:41 PM

Mark, it's easy to imagine a slipping clutch at 120K. I've known one or two people who habitually leave their left foot resting on the clutch pedal while they drive. Small, small impact but could add up after many thousands of miles. (I tried to beat this habit out of my teenagers as soon as I noticed them doing it. Worked with one, the other one no way!) You might get lucky and find you can adjust the linkage to stop the slipping. When you look at it, check for free play in the clutch pedal.

Holding on hills with the clutch, habitual slipping while shifting, etc. can wear them out too soon also.

A quart of oil every 3000 would scare me some. Depends on how badly you want it. I would probably turn away. On the other hand, 1-owner trucks are rare. This one could be in super nice shape otherwise, especially if this guy is as anal as your STEREOTYPE suggests!

ps - those mondo tire chains are awesome. Make me feel so manly I scratch my balls and spit every time I walk by them. I sized them for my 33s but will need overload springs to haul them around.

mabrodis · 02-10-05, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theo

ps - those mondo tire chains are awesome. Make me feel so manly I scratch my balls and spit every time I walk by them. I sized them for my 33s but will need overload springs to haul them around.

Cool, glad you like the chains and finally got the (shipment from CO to Montana went via Ohio thanks to DHL Ground)..nice...

Hmm..well I use to scratch my nuts WITH them and spit on them, so be careful..

Not sure on the truck, $1000 seems cheap, and at only 120K miles, it's got alot of life left in it, as far as drivetrain is concerned...

Arya Ebrahimi · 02-10-05, 05:39 PM

If you were going to build this truck, I'd say jump on it in a heart beat. If you just want it 'cause it's a deal......well, I'd probably still jump on it.

Honestly I think this type of truck is a prime candidate for a build-up, but I don't know that you'll make any profit flipping it in a couple months, especially if you value your time at any decent rate.

Ary

Sir_Titus · 02-10-05, 07:35 PM

I bought my 81 for $500 put $100 in it for a tune up and upgrade lights. No problems yet

mabrodis · 02-18-05, 07:58 PM

Ok, here are some pics of the '85 I was referring to in this post. To me it looks descent atleast. I just want someone who knows what to look for as far as rust on the frame to see if these pictures give some clue about if it has issues. The front bumper is completely rusted and falling off from what I've heard, yet the cab has no rust at all, the bed has the spots shown. This has been in Colorado it's whole life (120K miles, still with original owner). Things rarely rust here, so any continued rust I'm not really worried about. What do you guys (with alot more knowledge about what to look for) think?

mabrodis · 02-18-05, 08:02 PM

It would probably be a DD for me for a few months, then maybe my brother (who works with the guy who owns it now) then maybe in a few years the first vehicle for my neice.

Arya Ebrahimi · 02-19-05, 03:15 PM

As I learned this weekend by stabbing a screwdriver through my frame (

ops: ) the most common place for frame rot is right where the frame turns up behind the cab, just in front of the spring hanger for the rear spring. Take a screwdriver and hammer and tap the frame around that area, both on the side and bottom. Also check the frame alongside the gas tank, that is another common area for rust to rot the frame away. From the pics though, it appears to be in pretty decent shape, at least compared to mine.

Ary

mabrodis · 02-20-05, 12:48 AM

Cool, thanks Arya, my brother said he beat on the frame in many spots and it was solid, but will beat on it some more on Monday...

Thanks!
Mark Brodis

teapot · 02-21-05, 02:51 PM

Keep in mind rust never sleeps.

calamaridog · 02-22-05, 02:24 AM

$1000, are you kidding? What a find...

Screw the rust. Pull the body and clean up the frame and use some POR on it. Replace some sheet metal, paint it, new carpet, swap some seats in, new tires, rebuild the motor, heck, upgrade the suspension and the tires while your at it.

Maybe $3000 total into it and you can drive it for another 120,000 miles.

And yes, it may use a quart of oil if he only changes it every 10,000 mi. or so

birddog019 · 02-24-05, 04:00 PM

My 1st toyota was an 85 and it was a solid truck. The rust on the bed is very typical but also very minimal for the age. The thing that I noticed is that the engine looks like it may be leaking around the timing chain cover and that may be the cause for the use of oil. If so that means the rings should still be good and at 120k they should be, but replacing the gasket sucks! When I had mine it leaked at the timing chain cover and used oil because of it. The correct way to replace the gasket is by removing the head because a portion of the head (a couple of inches) sits on the top of the cover. I've heard of people being able to replace without removing the head but I just ended up doing a rebuild and the 22R is very easy to rebuild. You may try to tighten and retorque the timing chain cover bolts and that may solve the leak if it is leaking there. If it has a/c that would definitely be a good price but too bad the dash is cracked. 85 has great resale because of the front solid axle.

Brian

mattlock · 03-01-05, 10:30 AM

If the truck was in wisconsin it would easily get 2500. I would jump on it if I were you. Solid front axles are hard to find these days. That all looks like surface rust except the wheel arches. Check the frame on the gas tank side and see if there is any rust where the frame rises to except the bed. That is usually the worst spot. I think you could probably sell it on ebay to some yokel from wisconsin for more than a 1000 tommorrow.

mabrodis · 04-17-05, 10:09 PM

Ok, thanks to those that replied. I just got this truck yesterday and brought it home from my brother's tonight. First impressions (I test drove it yesterday too, so today wasn't the first I'd felt of it), is that the shocks are shot. Bumps cause the frontend to go a bit crazy, not overly crazy (my '81 40 goes crazy, so and this is nowhere near that!), but just a bit loose, undamped, not surprising since it has factory shocks. Engine starts great, idles good, everything is in shockingly good shape. The one thing that doesn't seem quite perfect is the clutch. The engagement point is right at the end of the pedal, like the last 3/4" of the pedal. I looked under it thinking there was an adjustment under there on the rod that the slave-cyl pushes, but couldn't find any adjustment (I thought my 40 had an adjustment there, but maybe I'm losing it, or maybe the 40 does and this doesn't). The clutch seems to engage good, doesn't slip, but way, way out at the end of the pedal. Anyway to cure that? It would seem the slave cyl would need to be moved further from the clutch fork or make that rod shorter, or maybe having the clutch out at the end like that is the sign of a almost shot clutch? In either case I feel rather good about it, and definetly worth $1000 I'd say.

Thanks!
Mark Brodis

Cruisin'Carolina · 04-17-05, 10:23 PM

That is a good deal, and I would have jumped on it in a second.

My 94 mini saw limited towing events, but I pulled some really heavy stuff a few times, and replaced the clutch at 127K.....

Good luck with that, 20yr old one-owner trucks are scarce...

bigndn · 04-22-05, 08:40 AM

I'd say it's a good deal. I bought my '85 for $3000, but that included a reman. motor and new clutch ($1200 for the truck, $1800 for the 22R carbed and clutch installed). The bed was in about the same shape as the yellow one pictured above. Some concerns I'd have are the slipping in 4th/5th.......might have to have the trans rebuilt (approx. $1000). Since I've had mine (currently has 229K miles) I've rebuilt the trans, installed 4" lift springs and new shocks (Explorer Pro Comp 9000s), installed Warn locking hubs, new alternator, new mechanical fuel pump, redone the knuckles and seals, built custom front and rear bumper, Pioneer CD player, and other misc stuff. I blew the lower radiator hose flying down the highway and red lined, which resulted in a warped head, which resulted in antifreeze leaking into the cylinders. That all resulted in boring the block .030 over and all the stuff that goes with that......new rings, rods, etc. At the same time, I upgraded to a radiator out of a V-6. SOOOOOOo, long story short, in my case I've dumped about $5K more into mine, but will probably be able to give it to my daughter in 8 years and then my son in 16.

trailcarnage · 04-22-05, 02:28 PM

I would say that is a good deal provided that the frame is cool. I just paid $2500 for this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:US:6 The price was a bit high but it is nearly impossible to find a clean frame around here.

bigndn · 04-24-05, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailcarnage

I would say that is a good deal provided that the frame is cool. I just paid $2500 for this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:US:6 The price was a bit high but it is nearly impossible to find a clean frame around here.

Trail........nice rig. That's a twin body to mine! SCHA-WING!!!!!

turbocruiser · 04-25-05, 07:04 AM

Hi Mark, if you ever decide to sell it, drop me a PM, I've been looking for something like that for awhile, so, if you dont pass it on to yer brother then yer neice, let me know please. Thanks.

Bob_Garrett · 04-25-05, 10:30 AM

Sounds like you got a good deal. I bought a one-owner 83 last year for $800. Spent about 1/2 of its life in CO, rest in WV. Had about 250k on it. Had about the same amount of body rust.

Listen closely for any rattling noise from the engine at idle or rev it up to 2k or so. If you hear anything, you may want to pull the valve cover and check the timing chain guides. If they're broken, you'll need to replace them asap, as the chain will eat into the water jacket, if not repaired. Somewhat time-cosuming the 1st time you do it, put not particularly difficult or expensive. A kit from engnbldr.com is about $60.

Bob