locked hub in free mode???

alteredraptor · 08-31-09, 06:04 PM

87 runner... ifs... manual hubs... im having an issue with my passenger side hub... its in the free position but yet its still locked... now im new to the 4 wheel drive world, so i dont really know what needs to be where, but im slowly learning... it is missing the bolt that goes into the middle of the half shaft... now is that whats causing my problem or is it something else...???

2ndGenToyotaFan · 08-31-09, 06:08 PM

There is usually a bolt, or a C clip that holds the axle out where it's supposed to ride in the hub... So if you don't have either, then you are missing something. Go through this thread and make sure your hub is assembled correctly.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

alteredraptor · 08-31-09, 06:22 PM

holy cow nuts... somewhere down the road of previous owners, someone really did a number of losing things and welding where there should be no welding... sunofa... whats the best place to get new or used but still everything is there parts?

KLF · 08-31-09, 08:21 PM

Something else is weird in that pic. Where are the 6 studs that hold the hub on? And those bearing locknuts look like the ones used in auto hubs.

alteredraptor · 08-31-09, 10:54 PM

theres no studs... its actually bolted on... normal or no... i dont know anything about the history of the truck, except it got a new vin plate from the illinois police, other than that i dont know... and 2ndGenToyotaFan also said the same thing about the nut...

corax · 09-01-09, 04:28 AM

I would recommend getting the 6 studs and the cone washers for that before you play too much in 4wd - when the hub is locked, power flows from the front axle, to the locking hub, through those 6 studs to turn the wheels - without the cone washers to keep everything tight and centered, the hub can shift back and forth which will eventually elongate the holes and slop everything up

pappy · 09-01-09, 06:22 AM

What Jerod said. Check your assembly and get some studs/cone-washers/nuts. It's real easy to get things turned trying to get the hub lined up to go on. This would cause a partial engagement of the splines. The hub needs to go on straight with no turning of the body to line things up.

alteredraptor · 09-01-09, 12:35 PM

im sorry, i forgot to mention that it has the cone washers, i have all the cone washers, but instead of the studs, its bolted on with the cone washers... and im not really planning on doing any kind of serious off roading or wheeling... my location and my truck not running all that good prevents me from doin so

missouriman · 09-02-09, 09:22 AM

cone washers will not work right with bolts.
get the studs and put them back in.

a cone washer grips the stud tight as you tighten the nut down.
holds the hub in and removes any rotational slack that a bolt might leave.

not only are you forcing the hub down tight. but at the same time you are tightening it in rotation as well.

I would pick up new cone washers, and the washers that go on top of the cone washers as well, I bet they are hosed from the bolts.

I hope I said that in a way that makes sense.

DanS HJ-45 · 09-02-09, 10:50 AM

What these guys said....

I'll add that when you reassemble the lockout hubs, make sure to just use enough grease to let it move freely. Too much grease and the hubs will not disengage. The grease will essentially suck the splined ring down, no matter what you do with the dial.

Dan

cruiser88 · 09-02-09, 12:12 PM

The hole in the middle of the axle is only for screwing a bolt in and pulling on the axle to assist you on insalling the c-clip

KLF · 09-02-09, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser88

The hole in the middle of the axle is only for screwing a bolt in and pulling on the axle to assist you on insalling the c-clip

Not on the IFS axles. There's supposed to be an M8 (12mm head) bolt with a large captured fender washer on it, just under the dial.

cruiser88 · 09-02-09, 02:15 PM

oh yea..............sorry I was thinking birf

Quote:

Originally Posted by KLF

Not on the IFS axles. There's supposed to be an M8 (12mm head) bolt with a large captured fender washer on it, just under the dial.

alteredraptor · 09-02-09, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by missouriman

cone washers will not work right with bolts.
get the studs and put them back in.

a cone washer grips the stud tight as you tighten the nut down.
holds the hub in and removes any rotational slack that a bolt might leave.

not only are you forcing the hub down tight. but at the same time you are tightening it in rotation as well.

I would pick up new cone washers, and the washers that go on top of the cone washers as well, I bet they are hosed from the bolts.

I hope I said that in a way that makes sense.

it makes sense... granted im slow at times but the way you put it makes complete sense for it, czu i know what you mean about the whole tightening in rotation

alteredraptor · 09-02-09, 05:25 PM

and as for the studs, washers, and nuts... i will certainly be putting them back on when i get them and the money

corax · 09-03-09, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KLF

Not on the IFS axles. There's supposed to be an M8 (12mm head) bolt with a large captured fender washer on it, just under the dial.

Yes, but with or without that bolt the axle isn't going anywhere - that bolt is missing on the RF of my 4runner, I've been through several streams and whatnot with no water or dirt getting past the seals because of the missing bolt

KLF · 09-03-09, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corax

Yes, but with or without that bolt the axle isn't going anywhere - that bolt is missing on the RF of my 4runner, I've been through several streams and whatnot with no water or dirt getting past the seals because of the missing bolt

Agreed, I'm not really sure what that bolt is there for, given the thrust washer and C-clip/snapring under the hub body.