[JCook5003]

Hey Guys-

I'm completley stumped, after swapping a new motor into my 89 4Runner (3VZE). I have no spark.

I've done the FSM tests and all the contacts in the distributor check out good, then I check voltage up to the igniter(ignition control module) and I have 12V, then I check voltage at the coil and I have 12V between hot side on the coil and the negative battery terminal. I pulled the coil and cleaned the bracket that I guess acts as it's ground to the fenderwell.

Seems like if I have voltage at the coil and no spark it could only be a bad ignition module, which I hope it isnt since they run $350 new.

Does anyone know another way to check the module to see if its bad before I go hunt a used one down to buy?

Also is it possible this could be a grounding issue? How would I know? I have a ground from the manifold to the firewall, exhaust manifold to the fenderwell, and the battery negative is grounded to the frame, is it possible I am missing a ground or have a bad ground connection, also how would I check that short of just pulling them all and cleaning them? The two small manifold ground wires are the only engine grounds should the battery negative cable be attached to the block? Could this cause a no spark condition?

Thanks
Josh

[WristPin]

remove any aftermarket tachometer if there is one.

its not uncommon for the module inside the distributor to fail.

instead of buying one new try a used one. you dont have one off the old engine?

[JCook5003]

No aftermarket tach.

I checked the modules in the distributor, according to the FSM they are all in spec.

Only thing I bought was a new engine didnt come with a coil or module....

Found several on car-part.com for $50 think I'll go that route, atleast I'll only be out a couple hours pay instead of a day

Thanks

[pappy]

Run a ground wire from the coil bracket to the battery and see if that solves the problem. After discovering that little know fact I modified both my 4Runner and my 3FEFJ40. Otherwise, get a boneyard ignitor instead of buying new ... unless you really want new. Did you price the new ignitor with your local dealer? Sometimes they jack up the price over list and it's best to price it at a discount dealer. You can go online and lookup the list price, then figure 25% off that. Cruiserdan (parts geek at American Toyota) here at MUD is a great resource.

[JCook5003]

I'll try the ground wire trick and see what happens I just really want to get this thing running again.

I'm going to buy an ignitor from car-part.com if the ground wire doesnt solve it.

Also I noticed my battery negative cable runs to the frame only, should it run to the block then the frame? or is the frame good enough?

[Jukelemon]

Cant speak for a 4 runners, but my truck has two main ground straps off the battery-one to the block and one to the body (not frame) right beside the battery.

Regardless, it is always a good idea to have a ground to the block.

[pappy]

My 85 4Runner only has one ground off the battery to the fender next to the battery. There is another ground from the firewall to the engine, and I believe a third from the engine to the frame. There is nothing wrong with adding grounds off the battery. Fake it, you won't hurt anything.

[HJ-45CrewCab]

Encountered same symptoms on my 4runner. ECM was bad. Put the ignition to ON, without starting it. If the CEL doesn't come on, the ECM is bad. I found one at a junk yard for $65. The ECM has to communicate with the ignitor to cause spark.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...-starting.html

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Or the CEL bulb could be bad or removed to hide a trouble code the previous owner couldn't be bothered to fix.... Ask me how I know...

[raevenzero]

Make sure your dizzy is rotating! I was getting no spark on a 22RE and when through all of the electrical before I realized that the dizzy wasn't turning due to a broken t-chain.