Speed bump getting daily driver running, help plz

MStars · 07-01-09, 12:46 AM

Amateur mechanic here and recently decided I needed to replace the U-joints on my 87 2wd pickup. After further investigation I realized they were so bad and the driveshaft was so bad that I would more likely need to replace the driveshaft itself.

I got a driveshaft from a yota yard (out of an 84 and in really nice shape), the measurements were all pretty much right on, got it shipped here, removed my driveshaft after much struggle with a lot of corrosion. Laying the 2 shafts side by side they appear exactly the same in every way. I got it all together, slid it under the truck and it's about 1/4 inch off. Every single thing is exactly the same except the rear shaft of the 2 measures about 1/4 inch too long on the new one. It even bolts to the rear differential fine, matches up to the front shaft that slides in the tranny but the bracket that mounts the joint in the middle of the two shafts is now off by 1/4 inch or so. What are my options from here? I am taking on project after project in my attempt to learn but now I am stuck looking for a solution. This little truck is my daily driver so I need to get it back on the road. Any help would be appreciated.

Can't get to work without this poor little truck.

Matt

WristPin · 07-01-09, 01:12 AM

even when both are compressed its too long? dont forget they slip in and out...

MStars · 07-01-09, 01:19 AM

thats the thing, the two shafts themselves fit together. I have the one slipped into the tranny and the other bolted to the diff, and the middle is even resting on the bracket that it's meant to be on. However, it needs to go towards the rear about 1/4-1/2 inch in order for me to connect the 2 bolts that hold the middle joint of the two shafts to the hanging bracket. I see how it slides more or less inside the tranny but theres nowhere for it to give towards the rear right? I can take some pictures tomorrow afternoon if that helps more but I'm stuck and now it's 4:20am =( heh.

inkpot · 07-01-09, 01:51 AM

Howdy! Ther rear half of the drivehsaft has to have a slipjoint in it. It may be full of dried up old grease, which could prevent it from collapsing all of the way. Remove the zerk on it and then try to force the shaft to make it shorter. Be sure to replace the zerk and re-grease lightly when your done. John

Bogo · 07-01-09, 09:20 AM

If you can get the rear half of the drive shaft pulled apart, some oil may help loosen up the dried up grease.

Injecting some oil into the grease fitting may also help get it freed up.

One you get it freed up, clean out the old grease.

MStars · 07-01-09, 02:39 PM

Which part actually slides in and out. I feel that the splines can go in or out of the tranny a little bit either way but are you saying that middle joint will slip in and out? I took a picture of my old driveshaft that I took out. Could someone show exactly which part slides in and out and if theres a good way to free it up? I'll obviously be doing it to the "newer" one I have but since that one is under the truck it was easier to take a picture of this one. The other one is exactly the same except for the 1/4-1/2in difference I am talking about.

Thanks for the responses so far guys.

inkpot · 07-01-09, 03:49 PM

There should be a slip joint on the long end that bolts onto the axle. Should be just a skinny section of tube that slides in and out of the fat section that is shown in your pix. John

"N8" · 07-01-09, 10:07 PM

not for nothin but try and get a photo of the two drive lines next to eachother and point out what is short. If I follow correctly your saying that the section of drive shaft with the carrier bearing is just s smidge too short for the pillow block bearing to mount up correctly. If this is the case then there is a discrepancy in parts. If im speaking correctly get an exact length of what you need, Maybe I or someone else has one that you could get for the cost of shipping.

WristPin · 07-01-09, 10:22 PM

Doctor CheeseBurger has spoken his piece

toyminator · 07-01-09, 10:23 PM

Are both of the driveshafts from a 5spd truck? Remember, a 5spd was optional in a 2wd in 1987. 4spds were strill around. Also, fuel injection and carbed trucks may have had different trannys too.

"N8" · 07-01-09, 10:38 PM

Wristy who you callin a meat sandwich??? =D

WristPin · 07-02-09, 12:24 AM

I have an alter ego

MStars · 07-02-09, 12:44 AM

Thanks for the responses guys. I took both shafts and laid them side by side. At first glance they appear to be exactly the same until I took the measuring tape to them. The front half of the shaft is EXACTLY the same length, but the rear part of the shaft is exactly 1/2 inch longer than my original one. I find it hard to believe that they'd make an entirely different shaft that was exactly the same in every way except 1/2 of 1 inch?

My truck is an 87 2wd automatic, fuel injected, with overdrive. The replacement shaft is supposedly out of an 84 2wd fuel injected truck.

What are my options now? Is there a way to cheat that half inch somehow to make the carrier bearing line up? Remember it is 2wd so theres no slip fitting on the rear half of the shaft. The original intent was to replace the rear U joint and the "yoke?" (still learning terminology ; ) as it is badly badly worn. The joints on the replacement shaft are all in good condition and don't really need replacing. What do I do now guys? Sorry if this is all elementary to most of you, just learning as I go here.

Thanks for the help guys and Dr. Cheeseburger for taking my call

Matt

MStars · 07-02-09, 12:46 AM

once I uploaded it it's hard to see the numbers for my measurements. Both the front halves measured in at 27 inches. The replacement one, rear section, from the points I marked, is 34 inches. On my original from the same points that I marked it is 33 1/2 inches.

Bogo · 07-02-09, 10:16 AM

What is the damage that made you decide to replace the drive shaft? Photos? What I'm wondering is is it rebuildable? It isn't too difficult to replace u-joints.

Mike C · 07-02-09, 10:40 AM

Is the center carrier the part thats worn out? Replace the u-joints on the rear section of your old shaft, and bolt it up to the new assembly. Sand them down and blast them with some fresh paint while you are at it.

inkpot · 07-02-09, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MStars

once I uploaded it it's hard to see the numbers for my measurements. Both the front halves measured in at 27 inches. The replacement one, rear section, from the points I marked, is 34 inches. On my original from the same points that I marked it is 33 1/2 inches.

Howdy! If the rusty one has a bad yoke on the diff end, and since you already have the nicer one, find a driveshaft shop and see how much for a cut and balance. Brobably less than another shaft. The carrier bearing is press fit onto the shaft, so you can't really bump it to fit. If you did retro-fit the mounting bracket, it might fit, but then the front section may still be 1/2" too long when it is pushed into the transmission. I suppose you could trim that off with a hacksaw. John

"N8" · 07-02-09, 12:58 PM

Ya depending on what part is really messed up I would put the new front section in and temporarily run the old rear section while you take the replacement to a driveline shop and have it cut down that 1/2 inch and rebalanced.

Could be that your u joints are to the point where its dangerous to use the old rear shaft, but if you get new u joints for the old rear shaft, theirs no reason you cant swap em into the new rear section after its cut down. But thats a lot of work and if i could squeeze out a couple more weeks on the old shaft's u joints while this stuff is happening i would.

MStars · 07-02-09, 02:01 PM

The rear yoke is the part that is really worn. Prior to removing the old shaft it would sound like the entire shaft was gonna spit out the back. Worst vibration and metal on metal noise I've heard. Obviously waited to long to address this problem but I guess thats how I learn.

I called a driveline shop and he said he could cut and balance it for $65. Is that a fair price?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys thats what I need.

Matt

Bogo · 07-02-09, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MStars

I called a driveline shop and he said he could cut and balance it for $65. Is that a fair price?

Sounds good to me.

Personally I'd also have them redo the u-joints, but use Toyota OEM parts.

inkpot · 07-02-09, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MStars

The rear yoke is the part that is really worn. Prior to removing the old shaft it would sound like the entire shaft was gonna spit out the back. Worst vibration and metal on metal noise I've heard. Obviously waited to long to address this problem but I guess thats how I learn.

I called a driveline shop and he said he could cut and balance it for $65. Is that a fair price?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys thats what I need.

Matt

Howdy! I'd say that is a real fair price. I would say anything under $100. I'd get there in a heartbeat and get it done ASAP before he changes his mind. John

"N8" · 07-02-09, 03:32 PM

Ya thats a good price, but like what was stated before you might consider installing new u joints before you have the guy balance it, or just have him cut it down and install the joints tho that'll probably cost more.

MStars · 07-04-09, 12:13 AM

Took the shaft to the driveline shop and the guy was gonna do it for $60. I brought my old shaft in though as a reference for the cut and the guy said that if I cleaned up the yokes a bit that they weren't all that bad. He suggested I change the U-joints and it would be good as new. Took her home, picked up a new U-joints, spent a few hours on my first U-joint project *mostly banging the old ones out* and bingo. Truck drives like new, no clunk into gear, no rattling metal, no entire cab vibration.

Thanks for all the help boys, I am indeed learning on the job.

Hope you all have a good 4th of July

Matt

2ndGenToyotaFan · 07-04-09, 10:21 AM

Glad it turned out well!

You can check U joints off the list now...