Conewashers on manual hubs

Mpowered1 · 09-06-08, 06:33 PM

I just bought my first truck! A 1990 4wd pickup with the V6. I'm working on replacing the front CV shafts. My question is how do I get the conewashers out. I've just been taking it slow, I didn't want to start hammering on anything, I have an older BMW that i've done lots of work on but 4wd is brand new to me. Thanks.

Hilux · 09-06-08, 07:36 PM

I like taking a small regular skrew driver and inserting it in the slot at an extreme angle. Then tapping on it to spin the washer. A couple of taps gets them out for me. And damage free.

NOTE: Don't hit it "in" it. Hit it to "spin" it.

pappy · 09-06-08, 07:42 PM

Second method.

Get small brass hammer. Back off nut, but leave it on the stud (assuming open nuts, acorns need to be removed). Place brass hammer on stud, holding onto the handle. Give the brass hammer a whack with a 2lb hammer. Might take a few blows. Nut should be on the stud to keep the cone washer from flying across the garage floor. Brass hammer will keep the stud from getting boogered.

You can also tap on the hub body like the cheapy brake shops do, but I guarantee you will dent the body. Cosmetically bad? Yes. But it can also deform the body enough to where the gasket will not seal.

2ndGenToyotaFan · 09-06-08, 08:57 PM

Welcome to Mud!!!

Glad to have you..... we're gonna need to see some pics!

liljlandon · 09-06-08, 08:57 PM

Third method:

If you are skilled in the ways of cheapo depo pliers, you take thoes and apply just enough pressure to get the lip of the washer and pull. Simple and easy. Pappy's way is easy to. Hilux's way Ive never tried but then again, check the chit chat thread to fully understand hilux.

raydouble · 09-06-08, 10:50 PM

The brass hammer or punch method is most effective IMO.
Welcome x2 on the pics.

Isotel · 09-08-08, 02:43 PM

i like the Brass drift method, but if you dont have one, just hit the metal hub body, and not the Aluminum lockout hub and you will be fine!

use anti seize to ensure they are easier to come off the next time

toyminator · 09-08-08, 04:52 PM

Brass drift and a hammer. put it right on the end of the threaded stud and tap it a few times. The cone washer should pop out. Heck in a pinch you can use a chunk of aluminum to do it. As long as the alloy is softer than the stud it won't damage the threads.

missouriman · 09-08-08, 10:18 PM

ok, you have gotten alot of good advice.. spray them also, like wd40 ect..
but really this shows why there are cone washers. they are awsome for holding power. if you have a rubber hammer or one those yellow, red hammers.. the plastic ones beat the sh1t out of it. some times you can use a small straight screwdriver and get them to turn..

jonb96150 · 09-08-08, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyminator

Brass drift and a hammer. put it right on the end of the threaded stud and tap it a few times. The cone washer should pop out. Heck in a pinch you can use a chunk of aluminum to do it. As long as the alloy is softer than the stud it won't damage the threads.

X2.

Just buy a brass drift if you don't have one. You need it to remove the wheel bearing races anyway when you replace the wheel bearings. And you will want to use it every time you remove cone washers.

Back the nut out to the end of the stud, and place the brass drift on the end of the stud and give it several good hits with a big ballpeen hammer. The impact causes the cone washer to back out. Keep the drift and hammer with your trail tools.