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Old 07-25-08, 05:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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You wouldn't believe me if I told you...

Well....


I found out why I was leaking oil at the timing cover so bad. After a 2 day timing cover pull and 10 minutes of it running and it wasn't fixed, I pulled the motor today.

If I hadn't of thrown my phone I'd show you a pic.

The timing cover had a wrong size bolt in it. I found this out while re-installing the cover. So I put the right one in it and it fought with me the whole time until I made a tap to re-chase the threads. I could not see what was causing the leak previously b/c of all the sh.. Mr.T put in the way.

It was leaking BAD from somewhere at the top around the top 14mm timing cover bolt. The one on the D side that holds the adjuster for the alt. The cover had...get this, evidently been torqued just right and it crushed the tapped hole for the top 14mm bolt.

The iron is minorly mushroomed b/c the timing cover I guess had compressed it and it had such a short bolt...







Great way to find out...

Timing cover 1

Block 0


I believe the block in now bad


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Old 07-25-08, 06:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 07-25-08, 07:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it's not stripped. The surface is split and mushroomed....weird...


it's like if you took a sledge and hit the hole just under the deck where the 14mm bolt goes

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Old 07-25-08, 09:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I read thru all that 3 times, and I STILL can't figure out WTF the problem is.

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Old 07-25-08, 10:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
Oh nevermind......

 
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A helicoil would fix the problem... I'd just smack the mushroom back down with a steel block, run a tap down it, and get the right length bolt. No need by far, to ditch the block.
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Old 07-25-08, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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do they make a vat big enuff thats full of FIPK that you could just dip your entire engine in?

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Old 07-26-08, 05:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
Oh nevermind......

 
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That's what I need.......Get it all together and dip it!
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Old 07-26-08, 07:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So someone used the wrong size bolt, you put the right one in, and the block shrumed' itself? Or was it shrumed' cause of the wrong size bolt?

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Old 07-26-08, 09:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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here's what I think happened.


The top 14mm was too short. I think it went in about 2-3 or 4 threads. Then, as it was being torqued, it pulled those threads apart from the block and crushed then against the timing cover. What broke off the block is about as wide as a quarter or two.

it is weird and I'll try to get pics,

Regardless, it's causing a place where the TC will not fully seal. It prolly damaged the TC but IDK for sure. It's not tore down right now, and might not ever be. I've now got to jury rig a motor to go in it.

I've got about 5 R/Es and the one other 22R that I have, came out of it has a shot crank.



fun times...

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Old 07-27-08, 09:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
Oh nevermind......

 
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Ah ha, so it's broke good huh? I'd still weld that hole in where it's no sealing, but I feel you on the engine trouble, that's for sure!
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Old 07-31-08, 05:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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FUBAR

Red: Cracked and completely broke off

Black: Bulged out. Like a sleeve or liner being pulled out.




.This is the best internet pic I could find. Not mine...The bolt that was in it, and I assumed long enough was like a reverse press that tried to pull the threads out.
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Last edited by Hilux; 08-29-08 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 08-04-08, 01:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well....it's either fix this somehow, or rebuild another block...which I don't have the time and money for...


I've got it tore down. With the iron totally broke off and in the shape it's in, could it be possible to just put some black oil resistant RTV on it instead of gaskets and re-install? It's got a nice surface, but how will it react to torquing? If I torque it, what's to keep it from slowly forming around the broke area?



I can't figure out how, unless it was coming through the HG, and why the oil was getting out like it was.

Just prior to me installing the particle type(flake?) HG, I did spray it off with break parts cleaner and did remove some type of layer that was made into the gasket. Could it be flowing from between the particle layers of the HG?


Timing Cover: It does have an area for the gasket to go, but around where the bolt for the TC goes in is fawked...
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Old 03-08-09, 01:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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sorry, these were the best pics I could take.


I don't know if my problem can be seen good. I reckon it's toast...

My 20/22R Hybrid motor hinged on this block. Pretty much as soon as I got it in, it had to come out. It just would not hold oil. I tried to grind it off and put a washer there but that didn't work either.

Just wont hold oil.





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Old 03-08-09, 01:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hilux is that a crack on that ear?

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Old 03-08-09, 01:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you're looking at the above view, no. That's FIPG.

If you're looking at it from the side, that's how much broke off the block. About 2 or 3mm.

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Old 03-08-09, 01:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
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80 grit sandpaper.....clean real good.

Buy some Harris 15 and the flux.

Buy some Mapp gas not propane.


Fill slowly with the silver solder...worth a shot. I really cannot see what is broke other than a crack in the first picture on that ear. Harris 15 is buildable and strong as hell.

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Old 03-08-09, 01:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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88. What you see in the pic is not a crack. It is a ridge. I put a bolt that was too short in it and instead of the bolt stripping as I torqued it, it broke the iron that was from the threads of the block back to the timing cover.

Now there is a difference in surfaces. What broke off was about the width and size of a nickle. Somehow I have to get the surface back-up before the TC will seal properly again.


But I really think it's just skrap metal now. Great running block, and all that work I did to make the Hybrid work, gone...sucks b/c of that little break.


slightly different pic.


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Old 03-08-09, 02:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I was focusing on the 1st picture

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Old 03-11-09, 04:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I was focusing on the 1st picture
Great Place to Store your Bolts


Those Timing Covers Suck, 30 Bolts Each a different size and length

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Old 03-12-09, 10:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Only solution my little brain can think of is to take a die grinder and a file to your block and square off that broken piece so that the missing part is uniform all around. Then measure the depth with a set of calipers and make a d shaped washer out of some flat stock steel. make sure the seems are tight as a nuns cunny, and fipg the hell out of it when it goes back together.

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Old 03-12-09, 11:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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JB weld to buildup area and put thread release on a bolt and thread it into the hole. once dry file flat and lots of silicone to help seal.
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Old 03-12-09, 01:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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JB weld to buildup area and put thread release on a bolt and thread it into the hole. once dry file flat and lots of silicone to help seal.

ehh I use the rule of thumb in that I will use jb weld on things that are able to fail. Being that jb weld does eventually fail... always.

I wouldn't trust that stuff for anything even remotely close to my engine let alone trust it to keep oil in the sucker.

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Old 03-12-09, 02:06 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Only solution my little brain can think of is to take a die grinder and a file to your block and square off that broken piece so that the missing part is uniform all around. Then measure the depth with a set of calipers and make a d shaped washer out of some flat stock steel. make sure the seems are tight as a nuns cunny, and fipg the hell out of it when it goes back together.
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JB weld to buildup area and put thread release on a bolt and thread it into the hole. once dry file flat and lots of silicone to help seal.


Thanks for posting guys. I did try to grind and put a washer behind the cover, like N8 said. But it didn't help at all. I eyeballed it and got the finish you see. All told I redid it about 3 times, in 3 or 4 days...talk about pissed.


I am still open to suggestions, but I'm pretty sure the effort to get it back won't be less than just swapping out the internals to the block I have with bad internals...It's gonna cost me; machine, parts, time, but I think the end result would be better.


I've given up on it for now, and can't wait till I get 99% done with my next project (see sig), so it'll take a dump on me as well.

Not going to be needing a hi-deck, 22R for a while now.

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Old 03-12-09, 02:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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nooooooooo JB Weld anywhere close to that block. I seen that stuff harden and soften up to many times near heat. Yes it works for a little while on the rad. but even that fails sooner or later. I hate to see Hilux loose a engine when the oil shot out the patched spot .

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Old 03-13-09, 06:19 AM   #25 (permalink)
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have you thought about braising in that washer and then grinding down the excess?

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Old 03-13-09, 09:29 AM   #26 (permalink)
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No. If I did, or built it up with anything, would I have to get the surface machined?

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Old 03-13-09, 09:46 AM   #27 (permalink)
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nope absolutely not if I can make a gasket surface for a toyota e-locker with a crappy mig welder, you can grind and file your block for some fipg

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