RTE will not idle and left over night seems to start w/ low compression and tick (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 2, 2008
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36
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2,165
Location
Nashville Tn.
Like the title says. It'll run and ALMOST idle when warm.

The truck has been sitting for atleast 3-4 years. I just flushed pure tar out of the equalizer tube for the slosh tank that the FP sits in. Bottom of tank has sludge but its got 3 gallons of fresh after removing the old. I know its got some junk in it but its running spot on in the 1k and up RPMs.

I go to hit it in the morning and it's like there is NO compression in it. It sounds like I'm trying to turn the engine with no spark plugs. And I swear its hitting a valve but its got good compression once warmed and running (assisted running)


could a guide be slipping down the valve?

Again; cold, turns over as if NO compression, tick tick tick (not the air flow meter tick either).

foot cracking the throttle hard to start but does.

after hot, cracking the throttle starts ok-poor and runs smooth 1k- and up RPMs assisted.

No smoke. Can hear the turbo spool. No cat and exhaust after the down pipe. Cannot set idle or timing and the adjuster that has some intake from the PS lines has been fiddled with. Donor ran fine. But owned by Mo-Rans so...:rolleyes:

New FP and filter, DK/ D't remember if the upper is new. New HG TC and steel guides.
 
start at the beggining. work thru all the regular areas.
fuel, air, spark.
the ground lugs on the side of the intake manifold is what i thot of first. running the gunk out of it, get that nasty gas out of there. you try adding heet?
vacuum leaks?
check the valve lash
clean the cap rotor contacts
clean all possible electrical connections.
while its running like crap, jiggle wires, maybe some meices got in there and munched some wires
 
compression issue? metal gets hot and expands. *rings* do a cold and hot compression test. bad rings right there will rule out all the other things i just said to check.
 
well the frippen thing is wearing me out.

I have never been able to put the timing marks of the cam at TDC along with the crank so I spent an hour f'ing that up.

I cannot get it to idle so I can even check the timing....:bang:

She's close to becoming skrap....

It ran and around the block and back again this morning idled but poorly. I checked the timing and it was off the adjuster, pulling the dist, I got lost and another hour wasted wound up putting it back in the same spot. So? I thought the cam was off. Like I said I HAVE NEVER been successful at the moronically easy task of "just line the marks up". The mark was in the trough, a half a link away and I didn't know what else to do so I made it in the trough on the other side of the timing mark :bang:


I have the worst luck timing these freaking things CUZ I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO LINE THE MARKS UP.
 
Pin, yer box is full :flipoff2:


I lost the prime on my 84 22r

Do you have any tricks to get back the prime on the 22Rs?

The pressure line into the filter is in the center right?

I had oil in the pump prior to install but I guess a couple days in the sun, its run down.
 
why dont you take off the valve cover and watch the valves to get it lined up on TDC. if there is no mark on the pulley, take off the bolts and use the wooddruff key as a guide to make a new one.

you can also pull out the #1 plug and put a pen or some kind of rod in there, to see TDC.

to prime the pump, i have no tricks. i would first make sure the inlet hose is flowing well, by disconnecting it and putting it below the level in the tank. watching for strong (but brief) flow.

hook er back up and crank it. it shouldnt take much to get her to flow. if it takes way too long its got a problem.
this fuel question has got to be about your 20R, right?
 
why dont you take off the valve cover and watch the valves to get it lined up on TDC. if there is no mark on the pulley, take off the bolts and use the wooddruff key as a guide to make a new one.


I trust the crank TDC, I can see the mark on the rocker assembly and the mark on the sprocket...i can just never line them up EXACTLY.

Like the book and everything else states. Sorry I've just never done it. It's always been a half a tooth off and I've gotten lucky with the distributer and timing it.

Only in this case it won't idle so I can check it. :mad:

And since it's RTE I think the computer will allow it to advance/ retard way more than a RE and if my foot's on the gas I think its advancing so far to compensate. So that to me rules out trying to check the timing with it running assisted.

And the woodruf key does not line up with the "dot" timing mark.


Am I centering it to a mark that's supposed to be for the link. And then center the link with the arrows?
Or is it the dot that is centered to the arrows?

As I'm doing it now it's off a half a link from the arrows atop the rocker assy. I have never been able to put the dot on the arrows and the crank be exactly at TDC.
 
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I trust the crank TDC, I can see the mark on the rocker assembly and the mark on the sprocket...i can just never line them up EXACTLY.

Like the book and everything else states. Sorry I've just never done it. It's always been a half a tooth off and I've gotten lucky with the distributer and timing it.

Only in this case it won't idle so I can check it. :mad:

And since it's RTE I think the computer will allow it to advance/ retard way more than a RE and if my foot's on the gas I think its advancing so far to compensate. So that to me rules out trying to check the timing with it running assisted.

And the woodruf key does not line up with the "dot" timing mark.


Am I centering it to a mark that's supposed to be for the link. And then center the link with the arrows i.e. setting the proper tension on the timing chain. Of course, I am assuming that the rte is identical to the re in that regard. Not sure though.

I know on mine, I would have been a link off IF I would not have manually rotated the cam in order to get the cam sprocket on/aligned.

Maybe that is the secret?
Or is it the dot that is centered to the arrows?

As I'm doing it now it's off a half a link from the arrows atop the rocker assy. I have never been able to put the dot on the arrows and the crank be exactly at TDC.

First, Take a pic for us of the misalignment.

Second, have you tried to manually rotate the cam so that the timing marks/chain links will align?
 
Ok, IH8 to ask such dumb questions but like I've said I've never lined the marks up EXACTLY in any 22R/E


So...

The cam TDC appears to be 7deg before crank TDC. Shouldn't I be able to pull the dist and match the dot to the cast line, slip it in and it'll be right. Right?


Once again, when the crank is at TDC and the cam is always 5-8 degrees off.

The dist goes to the cam. So, if the cam is off 7deg, then if the dist is dead on #1 then that should be it, right?
484DA37A0001251C00002A2F22070245530A900E0BCB98CB0E020D.jpg
484DA319000A5D3E00001D2F22070245530A900E0BCB98CB0E020D.jpg
 
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here's as close as I've gotten w/ my 20/22R

My thumbnail is at the "dot" and the crank is at 0deg TDC.
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20r.jpg
484DA3F100001D75000031D822070245530A900E0BCB98CB0E020D.jpg
 
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why dont you take off the valve cover and watch the valves to get it lined up on TDC. if there is no mark on the pulley, take off the bolts and use the wooddruff key as a guide to make a new one.

you can also pull out the #1 plug and put a pen or some kind of rod in there, to see TDC.

the key does not "exactly" match the "dot" :confused:

:crybaby:


It's only a turbo...and if it only pre-detonates could throw a rod..:meh:
 
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well....

Set the cam timing again, its not perfect but its allot closer. I then turned the engine over with the cam to get it ahead of the crank and be close. I think I had too much tension....IDK.

I can set the timing and get it to idle, no check engine light is on but the location of the adjuster and bolt will not let me bolt it down. Move the dist and it all goes to ell.


I think someone rebuilt the dist and it was off....? So I threw another I had in there.

Set the T/E-1 connector and now I've got 2 codes, one of which is not supposed to go to that model....?


11 and 14

it's a jan 85 so....?


and I thought the T/E-1 was was for the setting the timing w/o the correction for altitude.
Not the diagnostic terminal. Running there is no check engine light on....?


frapping Chilton's! :mad: :bang: Note to self: get FSM
 
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:bang:

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TDC WTF2.jpg
TDC WTF.jpg
 
this sounds like me as well...

22re timing issues - YotaTech Forums


wonder if they gave me the wrong chain, I put the wrong chain in it, the sprockets for the 22r (tall block) are different than the RE (short block) ...?
 
:crybaby:


I don't know WTF I have....so I guess I'm staring down the 4th engine removal in this one GD vehicle, in a row....


at least I got to drive it around the blocks a couple times....long enough to get a seat belt ticket...on the next street.
 
could this be a problem?

1st off the pic is wore than it looked from the view finder...but that's what I get for buying the cheapest phone.

2nd, there are two match marks, one is a paint on and one is a mark on the rim of the dist. I've never seen the mark on the rim so I don't know if it's a Toyota thing or something someone put there but it looks factory, very well made.


The paint means someones been in it. NOTICE: I tried to match the button with the mark and the signal rotor.

NOTICE it is way off...

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dist.jpg
 
hold on, I'ma go get some better pics.....:mad:


Does the signal rotor have to match the button?


Is a RTE distributor type specific?
 
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these pics are of the one that came on it. It was a donor so I had little time with it before the motor came out. Looking (Waaaayyyyyy) back, it seems the dist was turned as far one way (???) as it would go, and that's the only way I can get it to run.

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RET1.jpg
RET2.jpg
RET3.jpg
 
this is a pic of another dist, I have no idea what it came off. I'm hoping the dist's for RTEs are not specific...but I would think so...

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486C1D62000AC48E00006B5022007623020A900E0BCB98CB0E020D.jpg
 
you can use any distributor off all the 20/22R/E's as long as the plug fits together.

dont use the marks inside the body of the dist. line it up with the center of the bracket that holds the plug.

Are you sure you are putting it in there when its TDC at the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke, and while the crank pulley mark is at either 5 or zero?
 

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