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Old 07-03-08, 02:28 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ooo, if that's the case, I have a killer test light with a switch on it. It's the only one I've ever seen like it...and if it works I'll get some pics of it.


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Old 07-03-08, 02:45 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Dear Mr. Hilux,

When I fly home to Alabama this summer I may have to come see you. We have good friends in Chattanooga. Where in relation to that are you located? Maybe a pilgrimage to Graceland and Hiluxland could be combined? (I realize that's clear across the state from Chattanooga.)

You have to be worthy of the trip. Should I come in the 80, the 4Runner, or the Shelby GT500?

All kidding aside, I admire your tenaciousness with these Toyotas!

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Old 07-03-08, 02:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Pull small wire off of starter, hook test wire with alligator clip there... touch other end to bat +. It will turn, but won't try to start unless the key is on....


no worky

tried twice with a standard test light. I'm getting a connection... but the starter is not even offering to bump...

the little pull out wire?...or the power wire, the one that bolts on?

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Old 07-03-08, 03:04 PM   #34 (permalink)
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What? Cussing classes.

Where? Anytime I'm working on this RTE in my garage.

How much? FREE!!! Just show up and present a picture ID.


oh, and you might want to bring a chair. Stadium seating. 1st come 1st served.

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Old 07-03-08, 07:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
Oh nevermind......

 
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Sorry, I should have been more clear... Just a test wire with at least one alligator clip on the end for the starter. No test light. Yes, the small wire that just clips in. You'll need 3-4 feet if you go out the wheel well and around the fender, or 2-3 feet if you go inside the engine bay.
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Old 07-04-08, 06:58 AM   #36 (permalink)
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uh, do I set the cam at TDC with the crank at 0 or 5°?

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Old 07-04-08, 11:25 AM   #37 (permalink)
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dont worry about the cam. forget that thing exists. unless the chain is off. is your chain still off? you got me replying to both threads, now in just stickin to answering the last reply in one givin thread.

granted the chain is installed:
turn the crank pulley till the mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the numbers above the crank pulley. Align the crank pulley with the english numeral five (5)

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I like it when I can go out on the porch buck naked ...unroll it and take a wizz without somebody saying ......look john is alive and well
22RE Tech hotline- check the FAQ
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Old 07-04-08, 12:10 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Does this look off? The crank is at 0, so if it was backed to 5 it would seem it's a tooth off.

And pin, yeah I'm sorry. I'm working on two at one time so it's even confusing to me some questions I'm asking.

sorry.



I tot the crank had to be at TDC in order to match the cam?...

I wouldn't call that "ignition timing" to me, "ignition" is in the "ignition system" i.e the distributor....





oh god,,,,the charge pipe comes off yet again!!

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Old 07-04-08, 01:04 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Alright, now run it like that. Get that distributor in there, and line it up so the rotor is in the general vicinity of that connector bracket. Now you can see everything, so this should be straight forward.

yeah the cam gear is not exact on yours. I recall mine being a little off too. I really dont want to pull the vave cover off, but If you continue on with this, and findyourself still with problems, I will pull mine and take a pic.

Today I am dealing with problems too. I am trying to get my fuel pressure line which has a M14x1.50 pitch inverted flare nut to thread into my new carter fuel pump, which has a standard inverted flare .500"

fawk.

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Old 07-04-08, 01:10 PM   #40 (permalink)
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***for future serch results***

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Set the T/E-1 connector and now I've got 2 codes, one of which is not supposed to go to that model....?


11 and 14

it's a jan 85 so....?


frapping Chilton's! Note to self: get FSM


Per page FI-24 of the 1985 Toyota truck FSM.


Diagnosis indication


1) including "normal", the ECU is programed for the following 13 (22R-E), 14 (22R-TE) diagnostic codes.

2) when 2 or more codes are indicated, the lowest number (code) will appear first.

3) all detected codes, except 11 and 13 will be retained in the memory by the ECU from the time of detection until canceled out.

4) once a malfunction is cleared, the "check engine" warning light on the instrument panel will go out but the diagnostic code(s) remain stored in ECU memory (except for code 11 and 13)

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Old 07-04-08, 01:45 PM   #41 (permalink)
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dilemma:


truck has run, I herd it, drove it....


Getting code 11

short circuit in terminal "T" (well duh, T-E1) when ac switch ON or IDL point off.

1) air condition switch

2) Throttle position circuit

3) Throttle position sensor

4) ECU

DK the what the "IDL point" is...

do I need to adjust (some thing I'm not familiar with nor have I ever done) the TPS?...If I've herd it run and drove it?



I might have broke some trash in the fuel lines free. But that doesn't make sense as much as I have run through it.... prolly a gallon

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Old 07-05-08, 10:33 AM   #42 (permalink)
Oh nevermind......

 
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I would at least check the TPS, you'll need feeler gauges and a multimeter. There should be a link in the FAQ, but if not, search 4Crawler.com for it (although I can't say for sure that the RTE specs are the same as the RE...)
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Old 07-05-08, 04:35 PM   #43 (permalink)
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durka durka....

the tank is lacquered and so is the level indicator(liar!)....


gonna go get some petrol

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Old 07-05-08, 05:16 PM   #44 (permalink)
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well of course I can't be THAT lucky...

Now I've got to drop the tank!(the gauge is flashing) yay, oh happy day!



ok, back to my original problem.....


it will not time. T-E shorted, lets say it runs best at 30(3-0, thirty)deg BTDC. The closer I try and put it the worse off it gets till it stutters and stalls.


DO I:

Have the cam off?

Just HTF does one set the timing on a 22RE?



Do crank go at 12deg or 0...or 5...or what?...then cam at what?...the match marks?...the dowel at 12:00?

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Old 07-05-08, 06:22 PM   #45 (permalink)
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now it needs a windshield.....anyone got a couple sticks of dino mite?

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Old 07-06-08, 06:46 PM   #46 (permalink)
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it's got to be my TPS....


22RE Timing Issues! - YotaTech Forums


god...I've done so much IH8 to do anymore...even if it's just a little to see it through....


it's idled at 950 and sounded real good. but why would the TPS being bad make the time at 25°-30° BTDC?



Death toll to date:

Removed engine from donor

Removed engine from 4Runner

Got completely finished installing donor motor only to break off the #4 spark plug flush off in #4.

Spent weeks trying to get the piece out of the hole

Spent a week at a friends, a life long mechanic to remove...he couldn't

Brought 4Runner back home,

Removed engine.....

Drove engine 2hrs to another friends to remove...

Drove engine with damaged hole due to the removal 2hrs back home....

RE-installed motor in 4Runner...

Bad FP, so changed it.

Bad FP so took it back and got another

No fuel, so cleaned out the tube for the slosh tank

Finally get it to start and it won't idle so I can check the timing....

Gage lied to me so I removed FP to look, messed up fuel level sending unit...no prolly have to remove tank to replace


uh,....

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Old 07-06-08, 10:31 PM   #47 (permalink)
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When I was unbolting my head off this turbo, I checked the mark on the cam gear. The crank is at zero.

The mark does NOT line up. Its off to the passenger side a bit.

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Old 07-06-08, 10:32 PM   #48 (permalink)
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the TPS has nothing to do with timing.

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Old 07-06-08, 10:34 PM   #49 (permalink)
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And yeah, you gotta drop the tank to mess with the sender.

look at it this way, R&R the tank is too easy to F up. so at least youll get it together right.

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Old 07-07-08, 09:07 AM   #50 (permalink)
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so it would run, smooth, and at 30° BTDC if the cam was one tooth off to the left?

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Old 07-07-08, 07:12 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Well I wouldnt say its off. Off indicates a problem. its more of a wacky design. And its the way it should be.

I cant explain your insane timing though. I am surprized you got it that retarded. How can you even know its 30 anyway? the numbers dont even go that high on the little tab down there.

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Old 07-07-08, 07:15 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I cant explain your insane timing though. I am surprized you got it that retarded. How can you even know its 30 anyway? the numbers dont even go that high on the little tab down there.


yup, it's about 3x the width of the timing tab off,...with a timing light...


right at about a 45 degree angle from 0

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Old 07-07-08, 08:21 PM   #53 (permalink)
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well that aint right. just like the sun dont rise in the west.

are you 100% positive you are using the actual timing mark, not a nick?
That thing wouldnt run if its at 30 degrees. well maybe but only one once cylinder half the time, and sound like a stuck hog.

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