Stripped Crank Nut

pappy · 04-28-08, 07:04 PM

Over the last 10 years or so I've been lurking Toyota sites on da'Web I've seen several posts about solving this problem. Thing is, I've only seen conjecture and great advice, but nothing from somebody that has actually done it. Sooo,

My front crank seal gave out just in time for CM2008. The bolt was slightly rounded and I tried and tried to be careful to get the sucker off without damage. NOT! Taking a clue from several posts I decided to weld on a socket to the bolt. As you can see from the pic the bolt has a very broad shoulder which made it fairly easy.

First attempt I used a 3/4" deep impact socket I had lying around. I didn't notice it was 3/8" drive until I tried to move it. Didn't matter. The welds didn't hold.

Second attempt involved a trip to Sears. I bought a standard length 19mm, 1/2" drive impact socket. This one I welded on real good - or as least as good as I could lying on my back.

Result? SCHAZAM! It took a lot of pull, but it did come off.

Japan4X4 · 04-28-08, 07:19 PM

Excellent!

the truck doctor · 04-28-08, 08:21 PM

pap, did you need to use a repair sleeve also?

2ndGenToyotaFan · 04-28-08, 08:25 PM

I bet the heat helped out a bit too... Very nice Pappy!

pappy · 04-28-08, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the truck doctor

pap, did you need to use a repair sleeve also?

I didn't. I probably should have considering the truck has 300K on it. I used a factory seal which is thinner than the aftermarket seals. I probably could have pounded it in further to clear the groove on the pulley.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndGenToyotaFan

I bet the heat helped out a bit too... Very nice Pappy!

Ya, I thought that too.

pappy · 04-28-08, 08:43 PM

BTW, I need to give props to the boys at American Toyota (aka CruiserDan's crew). I called them this morning about the availability of the bolt. Jim told me they usually stock them, but they just sold the one they had. He checked the other Toyota dealer in town and they had the bolt in stock. It was transfered from that dealer to AT and I picked up the bolt at 2pm.

I feel real lucky to have a dealer in my backyard with a quality parts department.

to American Toyota.

WristPin · 04-28-08, 08:58 PM

rather see you have a stripped crank bolt, than stripped threads in the crank

the truck doctor · 04-28-08, 09:08 PM

gotta ask, did you need to pull the rad? need to do this to mine as well

pappy · 04-28-08, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the truck doctor

gotta ask, did you need to pull the rad? need to do this to mine as well

Nope. Only removed the belts. Also, I didn't weld all at once. I did one quarter, let it cool, then did another. Took awhile, but I didn't want to get either the pulley or the crank too hot.

missouriman · 04-28-08, 09:29 PM

MAN,,, it is nice to win one now and then huh....
good job...
bad job on the 3/8 drive.. lol. that is something that I would do.
DUOH... .. HOMER simpson sounds.

04-28-08, 07:04 PM	#1
pappy In debt to the Shaman Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Back in Reality TLCA# 10004 Posts: 2,540	Stripped Crank Bolt Over the last 10 years or so I've been lurking Toyota sites on da'Web I've seen several posts about solving this problem. Thing is, I've only seen conjecture and great advice, but nothing from somebody that has actually done it. Sooo, My front crank seal gave out just in time for CM2008. The bolt was slightly rounded and I tried and tried to be careful to get the sucker off without damage. NOT! Taking a clue from several posts I decided to weld on a socket to the bolt. As you can see from the pic the bolt has a very broad shoulder which made it fairly easy. First attempt I used a 3/4" deep impact socket I had lying around. I didn't notice it was 3/8" drive until I tried to move it. Didn't matter. The welds didn't hold. Second attempt involved a trip to Sears. I bought a standard length 19mm, 1/2" drive impact socket. This one I welded on real good - or as least as good as I could lying on my back. Result? SCHAZAM! It took a lot of pull, but it did come off. __________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage. Last edited by pappy; 04-29-08 at 07:12 AM.

04-28-08, 07:19 PM	#2
Japan4X4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Hyogo Japan Posts: 507	Excellent! __________________ Importer and distributor

04-28-08, 08:21 PM	#3
the truck doctor IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tuscaloosa Ala. ROLL TIDE!!! Posts: 144	pap, did you need to use a repair sleeve also? __________________ the truck doctor 1989 excab 33" procomps E-locker 1987 excab 5:29's welded f/r,flatbed,35's

04-28-08, 08:25 PM	#4
2ndGenToyotaFan No longer pre-approved... Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Yreka, CA TLCA# 13872 Sign Up!!! You know you want to! Posts: 3,528	I bet the heat helped out a bit too... Very nice Pappy! __________________ Jerod The 79-95 Truck/4Runner FAQ 89 4Runner "The James Caird" 01 4Runner, for my Jefferson State Cruisers

04-28-08, 08:43 PM	#6
pappy In debt to the Shaman Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Back in Reality TLCA# 10004 Posts: 2,540	BTW, I need to give props to the boys at American Toyota (aka CruiserDan's crew). I called them this morning about the availability of the bolt. Jim told me they usually stock them, but they just sold the one they had. He checked the other Toyota dealer in town and they had the bolt in stock. It was transfered from that dealer to AT and I picked up the bolt at 2pm. I feel real lucky to have a dealer in my backyard with a quality parts department. to American Toyota. __________________ aka Bushrat 1969 FJ40 Project TEROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC ... assembly in process 1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage.

04-28-08, 09:08 PM	#8
the truck doctor IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tuscaloosa Ala. ROLL TIDE!!! Posts: 144	gotta ask, did you need to pull the rad? need to do this to mine as well __________________ the truck doctor 1989 excab 33" procomps E-locker 1987 excab 5:29's welded f/r,flatbed,35's

04-28-08, 09:29 PM	#10
missouriman IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 185	MAN,,, it is nice to win one now and then huh.... good job... bad job on the 3/8 drive.. lol. that is something that I would do. DUOH... .. HOMER simpson sounds.

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