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04-28-08, 07:04 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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photosynthesizing
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Palm trees and cool streams
Posts: 4,273
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Stripped Crank Bolt
Over the last 10 years or so I've been lurking Toyota sites on da'Web I've seen several posts about solving this problem. Thing is, I've only seen conjecture and great advice, but nothing from somebody that has actually done it. Sooo,
My front crank seal gave out just in time for CM2008. The bolt was slightly rounded and I tried and tried to be careful to get the sucker off without damage. NOT! Taking a clue from several posts I decided to weld on a socket to the bolt. As you can see from the pic the bolt has a very broad shoulder which made it fairly easy.
First attempt I used a 3/4" deep impact socket I had lying around. I didn't notice it was 3/8" drive until I tried to move it. Didn't matter. The welds didn't hold.
Second attempt involved a trip to Sears. I bought a standard length 19mm, 1/2" drive impact socket. This one I welded on real good - or as least as good as I could lying on my back.
Result? SCHAZAM! It took a lot of pull, but it did come off.
__________________
aka Bushrat
1969 FJ40 Project TOROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC, 4WDB ... assembled!
1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage.
"EFI Jon, EFI." - Juane
Last edited by pappy; 04-29-08 at 07:12 AM.
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04-28-08, 07:19 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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export.japan4x4.com
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Hyogo Japan
Posts: 567
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Excellent!
__________________
Importer and distributor
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04-28-08, 08:21 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tuscaloosa Ala. ROLL TIDE!!!
Posts: 414
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pap, did you need to use a repair sleeve also?
__________________
Heart Of Dixie Offroad Club
The truck doctor
1989 excab 33" procomps, E-locker
SAS'D 1987 excab 5:29's welded f/r,flatbed,37"s 9.5xp wireless
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04-28-08, 08:25 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Oh nevermind......
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Yreka, CA
Posts: 5,163
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I bet the heat helped out a bit too... Very nice Pappy! 
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04-28-08, 08:30 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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photosynthesizing
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Palm trees and cool streams
Posts: 4,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the truck doctor
pap, did you need to use a repair sleeve also?
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I didn't. I probably should have considering the truck has 300K on it. I used a factory seal which is thinner than the aftermarket seals. I probably could have pounded it in further to clear the groove on the pulley.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenToyotaFan
I bet the heat helped out a bit too... Very nice Pappy! |
Ya, I thought that too.
__________________
aka Bushrat
1969 FJ40 Project TOROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC, 4WDB ... assembled!
1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage.
"EFI Jon, EFI." - Juane
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04-28-08, 08:43 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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photosynthesizing
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Palm trees and cool streams
Posts: 4,273
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BTW, I need to give props to the boys at American Toyota (aka CruiserDan's crew). I called them this morning about the availability of the bolt. Jim told me they usually stock them, but they just sold the one they had. He checked the other Toyota dealer in town and they had the bolt in stock. It was transfered from that dealer to AT and I picked up the bolt at 2pm.
I feel real lucky to have a dealer in my backyard with a quality parts department.  to American Toyota.
__________________
aka Bushrat
1969 FJ40 Project TOROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC, 4WDB ... assembled!
1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage.
"EFI Jon, EFI." - Juane
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04-28-08, 08:58 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The NW, Cascade Mountian Range
Posts: 2,395
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rather see you have a stripped crank bolt, than stripped threads in the crank 
__________________
Wristy
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser88
Jebus...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser88
 I like it when I can go out on the porch buck naked ...unroll it and take a wizz without somebody saying ......look john is alive and well 
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22RE Tech hotline- check the FAQ
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04-28-08, 09:08 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tuscaloosa Ala. ROLL TIDE!!!
Posts: 414
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gotta ask, did you need to pull the rad? need to do this to mine as well
__________________
Heart Of Dixie Offroad Club
The truck doctor
1989 excab 33" procomps, E-locker
SAS'D 1987 excab 5:29's welded f/r,flatbed,37"s 9.5xp wireless
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04-28-08, 09:12 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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photosynthesizing
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Palm trees and cool streams
Posts: 4,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the truck doctor
gotta ask, did you need to pull the rad? need to do this to mine as well
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Nope. Only removed the belts. Also, I didn't weld all at once. I did one quarter, let it cool, then did another. Took awhile, but I didn't want to get either the pulley or the crank too hot.
__________________
aka Bushrat
1969 FJ40 Project TOROTE: Tim@DOA 3FE stroker (aka 2FE), H55F, SOA/SR, 35" MT/R, 3:1TC, 4WDB ... assembled!
1985 4Runner: lifted, locked, Tim@DOA 22RE, 4.7 tc, with 33" training wheels. R151F with dual 23-spline TCs in the garage.
"EFI Jon, EFI." - Juane
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04-28-08, 09:29 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 416
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MAN,,, it is nice to win one now and then huh....
good job...
bad job on the 3/8 drive.. lol. that is something that I would do.
DUOH... .. HOMER simpson sounds.
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04-27-09, 02:07 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
Posts: 298
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had the stripped out crank threads problem once,threw the bolt away and tacked thepulley to the crank,if that engine is still alive and you now own it im sorry 
__________________
1985 4runner,softop,22re,5.29 yukons,rear detroit locker,5 inch lift,33's, Warn M8000,armor,swampers,rust,etc
1975 FJ40 "Monongahela Monster" Buggy Project 2f,LincolnLocked,snorkel,Mini-truck PS,33's,full cage,more to come
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pappy
Bushrat
Milli Da'40
Japan4X4
