[WristPin]

Originally Posted by darichmon

Skull camo is badass but what really got me was the big ass Misfits Fiend skull on the tailgate. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my bed and bumper and I think I found it! As long as you dont mind me mooching off your ideas. I have a bunch of rust above my wheel wells so I was thinking about tubbing them to accomidate bigger wheels but Im still trying to figure out the lift/ wheel size I wanna go with. Props again bro! Will be looking foreward to progess. Oh ya, I dont think I will cover the bed welds either...looks tough like a scar.

Thanks!

its actually called the crimson ghost, not fiend. the fiend is the club name. the misfits jacked the face from a old 1940's Serial at the drive in. A villian who sought to destroy the city with a doomsday device.
I dont mind you copying. just know the facts, and give wristy credit. I have never seen anyone with the same trucks as me, as far as paint goes. I have been stopped many times. One guy came to where I was working, and really wanted it done to his truck.
So, i brought my stencil the next day, and painted him a black crimson ghost on his tailgate.
all mine are white. My skid plate on my 89 is got the ghost too.
Paint what you want, man. And i have been getting a lot of excellent feedback on this, people wanting to do the exact same. I may just start making a few extra stencils, and turnin a buck.

[hobiesbestfriend]

As far as the shackle angles go, mine sit like that. Partly because my rear springs are bought new and are still stiff and riding high. Also cuz I wanted em that way. When my rear springs are compressed enough to just hit the overload leaf, my shackles are at 45 deg. I seem to notice the shackle angle more often on expedition type setups or trucks that are planning on carrying more load more often. They ride high when there's no load but they're ready for it when needed. Only problem really is limited droop for fear of inverting the shackles upon compression.

Sweet skull camo, sadly I fear the wife and neighbours view me as too old and responsible to be driving my DD around with skulls plastered on it, but 5-10 years ago, I would have been out there now making my own stencil!

Nice job on the bob

[WristPin]

got the cab back on

i had to do it differently than before, as the come along is junk

hooked my 4Runner up to a strap, then to a cable, around a pulley, and to a strap around my cab.

redneck engineering at its finest

[WristPin]

Jerod, could you please change the name of this thread to
Wristy's 1980 Meatmobile build up

thanks
oh, i'd PM it too you but its full, and i dont wanna delete stuff

[WristPin]

I also sealed up by welding a plate, every single hole in the frame except two in the rear, i put plugs in there. and of course i did not weld up the round holes for the cross member above the rear tire. that hole there can come in handy if you break a birf on the trail. you put your axle in it and then persuade the birf

[WristPin]

oh, when i pulled the trans out of my 89 i noticed there are plastic plugs along most of the frame.
i imagine those same plugs once were on my 80

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Originally Posted by WristPin

Jerod, could you please change the name of this thread to
Wristy's 1980 Meatmobile build up

Done, Meathead.... Does this mean there's more to come?

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by 2ndGenToyotaFan

Done, Meathead.... Does this mean there's more to come?

Cool thanks

Yeah, theres much more.

bumper in front
new paint- well finishing the skull camo in front
a quick section on my custom wiring setup to make the new 22RE work with other accessories not found on either truck stock
winch
exhaust info on how a glass pack works
other stuff

[WristPin]

I am contemplating doing some hood art on there. like on my 4Runner. but instead of skull and cross bones, i want a big fat juicy steak. painted right over the skull camo. either a rib eye, or porterhouse.

[WristPin]

I have swapped in my 89 22RE into my 80 truck, formerly with a 20R

Since I am using a separate circuit for an external inline pump, i am able to eliminate the factory circuit opening relay.

Here is a diagram I made using the info here, and the info from my FSM. the colors i have written does not apply to anything you will come across. I used the stock fuse block and made note of stuff, for future reference. The injectors, igniter and O2 are essentially all tied in with the ignition. a separate wire to each of those parts is not nessicary.

the fuse amperage values on the side is for me only too, you can do the same, but again, its for my specific truck using the stock 80 fuse block.

on the alternator, you see values listed as 1/3 2/3 3/3 and 1/1
its how the FSM referes to a wire in a plug. all of these colors and values are of significance to you when doing the swap. since this was built off a 89, the alternator is internally regulated. you should use these wire colors to help you along the way.

The swap was quite simple really. I did make hard on myself cause i built a new body harness too.

[WristPin]

I did not use any of the factory relays or fuses from my 89. all mine i installed uunder the dash using Bosch 4 pin relays.
if you opt to do it this way, its IMO easier than pulling the whole harness out of your donor truck

[WristPin]

i made the switch panel. thats all wired in now

4 LED's 2 turn, charge and check engine

i couldnt afford 4 more switches. they will be for aux lights any way. now i have everything i need to drive it down the road legally. or at least close to it

[WristPin]

im not going to label any of the switches. i know its not much theft prevention but every little bit helps i suppose

[WristPin]

and of course the rear drive shaft and the crossmember the way the are dont work.
i modified the crossmember, but its only temporary, and there is no way i am posting that pic on here

the rear shaft from the 80 is too long, and the one from the 89 is too short.

so i will use the half and half, so the flanges bolt up, and build a square shaft. i dont give a damn about vibration, and besides, i will use grade 8 bolts and lock tight...

["N8"]

I really like the piston/rod shift handle

and the switch plate came out terrific wristy keep em comin!

[WristPin]

Thanks Nate

that switch panel is made from the a section of the 13" i bobbed from the bed

[WristPin]

my front plow
kind of strange looking. meh.
its stought







hers my lil helper

[beatdown83fj60]

Originally Posted by Hilux

while were on the subject, can anyone tell me why a vertical shackle is so popular?

I see them on EVERY Aussie rig I've ever looked at. Truly a W.T.F.

I cant figure out why this would be intentionally, seems as though its in the most prominent off road country's or areas. Do they know something I dont?......Like how and where to achieve useless flex?

The Man-a-Fre catalog is full of pics of them.


.another case in point

There are a lot of manufacturers that make stock length springs that are stiff by nature because they are very short (Toyota front and rear) and are supposed to provide lift. Those springs will almost always have a vertical shackle angle. I've had Superlift springs, Pro-comps springs, and 53 inch (or so) Deaver springs on the rear of the same 80 pickup. The pro-comp springs were too short and almost provided a negative shackle angle/vertical shackle with the stock shackle. I returned them because they ddin't flex worth a damn and were too short. The superlift springs were the appropriate length for a little bit more positive shackle angle but were stiff and still didn't flex (Toy factory hangers are just too close together for any real flex) so I took a 1 leaf out of each spring. They flexed GREAT 1 trip but fatigued to the point of riding on the bumpstops after 1 hour on a pretty rough trail. The deavers I had were already broken in and my friend welded them in according the deavers instructions and I ended up with a great shackle angle. Most AllPro/Marlin/Sky/Trail gear setups you see will have a relaxed shackle angle once broken in. 90% of the time a crappy shackle angle just comes from an aftermarket stock length lift spring.

[beatdown83fj60]

Originally Posted by WristPin

my front plow
kind of strange looking. meh.
its stought







hers my lil helper

It kind of looks like a big angry bullfrog with that square cattle killer on it. I like it.

[SarahSam]

Originally Posted by WristPin

rear half of frame is all done. i made a new wire harness, too.
then make a cool skull stencil, and made skull camo. what do you think??

[WristPin]

i pretty much finished the interior.
painted it all black. painted my switch panel and CB radio olive drab.

i put my special box some of you may know what is is and my cd player in the glove box. i had to cut out the rear of the box to fit the cd player.

this looks way better than the boring tan.

the floor will remain the way it is. i see no point in spending money on anything, as it will soon be covered in mud.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Well done Wristy!

[WristPin]

i cant get my pics to upload

[WristPin]

So I won this fan off a taurus, and i installed it today. every thing was going fine untill i went to put on the power steering belt. the belt hits the motor case.
I used the radiator off the 89 22RE. the deck height of that one is 2 3/4" the 80 20R is 1 7/8"

I will swap the fan around and I think that will give me enuff room for the belt.
So, FYI, use the stock radiator when installing a electric fan

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by WristPin

i pretty much finished the interior.
painted it all black. painted my switch panel and CB radio olive drab.

i put my special box some of you may know what is is and my cd player in the glove box. i had to cut out the rear of the box to fit the cd player.

this looks way better than the boring tan.

the floor will remain the way it is. i see no point in spending money on anything, as it will soon be covered in mud.

I painted my CB radio OD green


the check engine and charge light


i used some honda delsol seats. i ripped the cottin pickin head rests off there. i hate those things





used a ammo box for a center console. sweeeeet

gotta have a fire extinguisher

[WristPin]

The drivers side vent hole, i taped off the hole in the cowl. I always hated that. then made a home for a little 4" speaker.

the passenger side vent, i used the outer grommet and ripped apart a coffee cup, duct taped em together, and now i have a storage hole.

the cup holder affixed to the switch panel is from the swivel vents, the ones i just described.
a 12 oz can fits in there PERFECT.

the heater unit is pretty much worthless. there are vents in front, but never blew warm air, it was always cold. so I taped off the hole, removed the louvers, and now have a second storage hole.

since i now have no heater controls, i wired up a Hi only switch for the fan, and rigged all the flaps to fresh~defrost at all times. if i want no hot air at all, all i gotta do is open the hood and close the heater valve.

[WristPin]

the del sol seats fit in there pretty good. i wouldnt say it was a direct bolt in, but dang close. the front mounts, i only had to drill one hole. the rear, only one side touched the floor, and drilled a hole there.
the other rear mount sits about one inch above the floor. and below that hole but off to a side is a weled nut. so making a spacer and drilling a hole would interfere with the nut. so i screwed in a 1.25" bolt, and the seat bracket sits on top of it. once the other three ate tight, the seat does not move around on that one bolt. its alllll good

plus these honda seats are wayyy more comfy than the old worn out yota ones

[WristPin]

check it
i installed some beehive lights on my roll bar, and wired em up with my parking lights

what do you think about this?

[WristPin]

this pic gives me an idea. how cool would it be to have glow in the dark paint foe the skull?! awesome!

and this truck is still along ways from being done. i need a fuel pump (external, NOT in tank) and i need to make the driveshafts.
all i really need is money. i am BROKE. literally. i paid rent today, and im flat broke!

[D'Animal]

You taking it to Rubithon?