OK, going to do timing chain. Easiest way to lower front dif?

[Jukelemon]

Hi all. I am going to be doing the TC soon. I am going to lower the dif, take off the pan and do it right regardless if the guides are a little broken, a lot broken whatever.

So, is there an easy way to do this AND how much does it need lowered?

Thanks all.

[Hilux]

I've never done this, but I'm wondering if you cant just pull the 3 little bolts that hold the diff cover mounting bolt cross member and drop it, and the diff along with the two rear mounts.


It seems there'd be more room and that way. Is this possible MUD?

easier?...harder?



Dropping the IFS stuff to get to the engine bearings

[D'Animal]

22RE?

I think the pan comes off to do it right. There are kits you can get to replace the guides with heavy duty ones instead of the plastic ones. Send hottrod81 a PM since he just did it. Plan on replacing your water pump while you are in there that far.

[Hilux]

heres my kit,

a band saw or grinder is needed to trim down the guide to fit behind the cover, I had my 1st one done at a machine shop(cost me $15). Don't know yet if heat will mess up the glue from the rubber but it shouldn't encounter more heat than sitting in a engine all day.

I did not have to grind down the top of the tab shown in pic 1 the HG should give you enough room. The dozens of times I've held that 20R guide to a 22RE block its been able to go in place.


20R guides (not any news) will not fit behind a 22RE timing cover without modification.


..if you've got the tools $15 sure beats $65 any day IMO

[Jukelemon]

Sorry...22r-e.

Not sure what you mean Hilux about your "kit".

I was thinking that the cross member could be unbolted/loosened. I just do not know how much more room you need in order to get the oil pan off.

Thanks all

[Hilux]

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

Hi all. I am going to be doing the TC soon. I am going to lower the dif, take off the pan and do it right regardless if the guides are a little broken, a lot broken whatever.

So, is there an easy way to do this AND how much does it need lowered?

Thanks all.

Shouldn't be hard, IIRC there only three places the diff mounts. The two rear should be easy enough, but just make sure you keep up with the bolts. The front should be a big'ol to. Have a jack under it.

[Hilux]

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

Not sure what you mean Hilux about your "kit".

1, pair 20R (they're all steel dual row) guides.
1, chain saw file
1, method of removing about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the width of the 20R guides.

Usually parts suppliers have the guides in stock
Usually the modifying is ez.
Usually those two beat @ $65 + shipping + waiting =



Usually,

[KLF]

You guys are all doing this the hard way.

First, don't lower the diff. Raise the engine. Unbolt the engine mounts (4 bolts), jack the engine up, slip a couple scraps of 2x4 in the gaps, then get the jack out of the way. Then unbolt the fixed end of the steering stabilizer, swing it out of the way. I've done this several times. MUCH easier.

Second, why the heck are you guys home brewing your chain guides? Just get the engnbldr kit, or go to DOA. I don't know about you, but my time is worth WAAAAAY more than the $10 or so you'd save with all that work. Sheesh...

[Jukelemon]

Ahhhhhhhhhh...another side of the coin! I like that idea KLF.

I am assuming the stabilizer bar is out of the way for more room to work? I say that because no one else mentions that in any write up.

Also, WHAT exactly are you buying for parts? I see a pretty big discrepancy between DOA and engnbldr-at least I think I do.

Thanks

[KLF]

Yes, getting the steering stabilizer out of the way gains you more access. What I had to do is unbolt the pan, pry it off (it uses FIPG sealant, not a gasket), then also unbolt the oil pickup tube, and wiggle them both out over the tie rod. Reverse to re-install.

I know the DOA guides are a lot more expensive, but here is the engnbldr price list:

BUILD-A-KIT-85-95

You want the kit with the steel guide. $57 to your door, you'd probably have it in a couple of days. I've used this kit a couple of times, it works well, although truthfully I didn't like the timing cover gaskets and the front main seal that came with it, I tossed them and got OEM.

This is important stuff, don't be cheap to save a few bucks. You may be sorry later. When I did my engine a couple of years ago, I bought OEM chain, sprockets, tensioner, and gaskets, but I got a set of DOA guides. I also installed an engnbldr "turbo" oil pump, but unfortunately he doesn't sell them anymore. I had horrible chain rattle before, but it's totally quiet now.

[Jukelemon]

OK. Thanks.

I ordered his set and will get those two OEM gaskets.

Thanks.

[Hilux]

all the pics I've seen look like they are cut downs to, I thought they were full custom?

anyone got any pics?

(look$ like I'll be cut'n my own guides, that I can get in the same day)

LC's





DOA's














(Myth: BUSTED!)

[Hilux]

SlightJack: can you run those guides with out the rubber on them?

Seems to me the constant oil bath would be enough. And the rubber is just to keep noise down.

???

[Jukelemon]

Originally Posted by KLF

You guys are all doing this the hard way.

First, don't lower the diff. Raise the engine. Unbolt the engine mounts (4 bolts), jack the engine up, slip a couple scraps of 2x4 in the gaps, then get the jack out of the way. Then unbolt the fixed end of the steering stabilizer, swing it out of the way. I've done this several times. MUCH easier.

Second, why the heck are you guys home brewing your chain guides? Just get the engnbldr kit, or go to DOA. I don't know about you, but my time is worth WAAAAAY more than the $10 or so you'd save with all that work. Sheesh...

Hey man, I was looking in the bay and those engine mounts look pretty tight in terms of access. Any tricks before I start e.g. fender wells out etc...

Also, how much do I need to raise the engine i.e. how many 2x4's?

Thanks

[WristPin]

since the diff lowering scam is lame, i decided to lift both of my trucks when i did the timing chain job.
it makes it so much easier.

once its lifted, you never have to worry about it again

if you decide not to, i would imagine you unbolt the three bolts on the triangle mount and take out the long bolt for the round rubber mount.

i imagine this would allow all the room you need with out having remove any thing else.

[WristPin]

you cant take the inner fenders out, but there is a some small access cover on the inside. use a 10mm socket.

i think i saw a picture of you workin on a toyota in 4WDTO mag.

[Hilux]

Originally Posted by WristPin

you cant take the inner fenders out, but there is a some small access cover on the inside. use a 10mm socket.

i think i saw a picture of you workin on a toyota in 4WDTO mag.

that sides not gonna be the problem,,,, its the D side that is.

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

Hey man, I was looking in the bay and those engine mounts look pretty tight in terms of access. Any tricks before I start e.g. fender wells out etc...

Also, how much do I need to raise the engine i.e. how many 2x4's?

Thanks

loosen the alt and shove it up as far as it will go. This will clear up a little room.

The D side is the PITA side.


Nobody said this was gonna be fun? hope you brought your little hands

[Jukelemon]

No little hands here-that is how I made up for, uh, other smaller things.

Now, wtf here, how can one say lifting the engine is easier and others different. Why is the diff so hard to lower?

I am going to invent a suction that will suck up all the debris from the oil pan LOL!!!

By the way, for shits and giggles I called a mechanic and asked about this-he states no way to do that tc without pulling the engine. I said really. He said yeah not in a 4wd. Damn crook. I mean come on.

Anyway, I will start the removal tomorrow. I will see how it goes. Most the time, it all works out and it becomes clearer when I am in there.

Thanks guys.

Juke

[Hilux]

Originally Posted by Jukelemon

By the way, for ****s and giggles I called a mechanic and asked about this-he states no way to do that tc without pulling the engine. I said really. He said yeah not in a 4wd. Damn crook. I mean come on.

Don't feel bad, oh 5-6 years ago when I couldn't turn a bolt...and still cant now, I got two TC replacement estimates one was $900 and the other $1,000


NO JOKE!....for a $60 part???


And "the book" calls for dropping the diff. Thats why both the guys I called defended their prices. Remember, you get charged "the book" regardless of how much faster a skilled mechanic can do it.

[locknload]

OK, you don't have to lower the diff or raise the engine to drop the pan. Remove the ider arm from the frame and let the steering drop. Unbolt the pan and let the front drop enough to get your hand in there and clean out the broken timing parts. The pan doesn't have to come completely out for this. It worked for me.

[KLF]

I honestly don't remember having that much trouble reaching the 4 mount bolts, and I know I did this on my truck before I installed my 1" body lift. Do you have GearWrenches? If not, this is an excuse to get some. Maybe removing the wheels would help, and ya there's a little access panel on the passenger side that you can take out, it will help some.

Once I got those bolts out, I put a 2x4 on the jack, and positioned it so it was lifting the engine from the very front of the pan, at the block surface, but not by the crank pulley. I lifted until I could see that I was starting to lift up the truck, then I shoved a scrap of 2x4 in the gap at each mount. I've since done this a couple more times, it's worked fine.

There's no way you have to pull the engine out to do the TC, that guy is nuts.

[bkg]

I've never dropped the pan... ever...

Never raised the engine, either.

Just loosen the pan enough to drop the front about 1" and you're good to go.

[Jukelemon]

Originally Posted by bkg

I've never dropped the pan... ever...

Never raised the engine, either.

Just loosen the pan enough to drop the front about 1" and you're good to go.

Sorry, I don't see how 1" is going to help you. What do you with 1"?

Thanks all

[locknload]

I had to lower mine more than one inch (my hand is thicker than an inch), I lowered the front of the pan just enough to get my hand in there to remove pieces of the guide. Like I said above, I just lowered the steering. That's all I needed.

My pans bolts were all removed but the pan stayed under the truck, I just dropped the front as much as it would go. Keep in mind the only reason you're 'dropping' the pan is to clean our the debris. Don't do more work than you have to

[Jukelemon]

OK, thanks all.

I am just going to get in there and see what I see.

Juke