[WristPin]

This is a drawing I made of 4 relays, desinged to work together so only 2 wires connect to a window motor. the poles + and - reverse, so the motor operates up and down.

I just wired this up in my truck for the driver window. it works good. it is important to wire it to switched power, cause two of the relays stay on while the switch is off.

You can use it for any power window.

you can substitute the 25A fuses for 15A or 20 A
while brewing this up, I could have used a switch, alone, but I get more satisfaction doing it my way.

[WristPin]

its a lot cleaner looking once the circuit is built. you can see my test motor there, along with the momentary double throw double pole. you can use a momentary double throw single pole, if you want.
im no artist, i know the drawing is kind of sloppy. but the effectiveness of the circuit is 100%!

[foxfab]

I did it using 2 DPDT relays. Same thing I guess

[victorbirdseye]

Where do you mount the new switches?
Where do you mount the relays, how do I know what relays to purchase?
How do I get to the motor in the sun rooof?

[WarDamnEagle]

I must have missed the "Why do this?" part of the thread. LOL

[KLF]

I believe this is to replace the relays that make the rear window work, they tend to fail eventually. Mike's solution is much more durable. I don't like Wristy's "2 relays stay energized" method, but eh... it's not that big of a deal.

For relays that matter, I go to McMaster-Carr. Stay away from the crap that Radio Shack sells.

[WarDamnEagle]

Originally Posted by KLF

I believe this is to replace the relays that make the rear window work, they tend to fail eventually.

Well that I could see but Wristy said "driver's side window" which is why I asked.

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by WarDamnEagle

I must have missed the "Why do this?" part of the thread. LOL

why i did it cause the PO jacked up the window sw so bad i didnt have all the parts to fix it, and it the wires to it were so jacked up i didnt wanna deal wit it so i cut em out and ran the new ones.

i linked this thread for the newb so he could get an idea of how to fix his deal. DUH! LL

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by WarDamnEagle

Well that I could see but Wristy said "driver's side window" which is why I asked.

i designed the circuit to alternate polarity. it can be used on any motor

[WristPin]

[QUOTE=victorbirdseye;4794648]Where do you mount the new switches? where ever you want
Where do you mount the relays, once they are taped up they take up some room. i mouned mine behind my stereo, kinda on the floor.
how do I know what relays to purchase? bosch style
How do I get to the motor in the sun rooof? pull the head liner, use some tools in the right spots

the relays use these numbered terminals. 30, 85, 87, 87a, 86

try frys electronics. or go to the junk yard and find some.

[corax]

wouldn't it be simpler this way?
- 2 Bosch style relays, 1 switch
- motor has ground on both sides when relays aren't energized, switch provides ground to activate relay
- move the switch in one direction, 1 relay is energized and supplies power to one side of motor, other relay provides ground path - reverse scenario for the other direction



. . . is there any reason this wouldn't work?
You could have constant power to the relays with no battery drain

[WristPin]

the first relay for the up, is connected to 87 and when you switch to down, it remains in 87. you have to have the 87a in there cause these relays are normally closed in the 30 to 87 position.

looks yer design wont work. but i wouldnt mind building something similar

[corax]

Originally Posted by WristPin

the first relay for the up, is connected to 87 and when you switch to down, it remains in 87. you have to have the 87a in there cause these relays are normally closed in the 30 to 87 position.

looks yer design wont work. but i wouldnt mind building something similar

when you switch it to down the 1st relay is connected to 87 and ground, the second relay energizes and connects to 87a and voltage, so polarity reverses and the motor turns the opposite way - - this is actually a common dual relay power door lock circuit which reverses polarity to make the actuator move one way or the other based on switch input

[toy4xfun]

hell you boys are making every thing so difficult. i have no drawings but all you gotta do is reach over with your left hand and turn that there cranky thing and the window goes up. unless you are a passenger then you have to use the right hand to turn the little cranky thing.

[toy4xfun]

but if you take the doors off your truck you do not have to worry about it at all.

[corax]

Originally Posted by toy4xfun

hell you boys are making every thing so difficult. i have no drawings but all you gotta do is reach over with your left hand and turn that there cranky thing and the window goes up. unless you are a passenger then you have to use the right hand to turn the little cranky thing.

don't forget the latch and slide if you're in the back seat of a 1st gen 4runner

[Bogo]

Originally Posted by KLF

I believe this is to replace the relays that make the rear window work, they tend to fail eventually. Mike's solution is much more durable. I don't like Wristy's "2 relays stay energized" method, but eh... it's not that big of a deal.

For relays that matter, I go to McMaster-Carr. Stay away from the **** that Radio Shack sells.

DigiKey Corp. also sells relays, switches and other electronic parts.

As the simple design just uses automotive relays I'd go that way and pick them up at the local auto parts store if they aren't priced insanely. If you don't want to bother with sockets, just get the blade type quick connect contact and use faston connectors. Automotive relays can be bought with a mounting tab in either metal or plastic.

This is a Tyco SPDT automotive relay, 30A @ 12VDC: Digi-Key - PB686-ND: If you go to the catalog page you will see sockets and terminals for them. Digikey is $2.93 each but orders under $25 are assessed $5 handling.

PS: don't forget to use dielectric grease on the contacts to keep em from corroding.

[toy4xfun]

Originally Posted by corax

don't forget the latch and slide if you're in the back seat of a 1st gen 4runner

12 bolts and the latch and slides are on the saw horses.

[cruiser88]

Intresting.....when I was using all my power windows I did things completly diffrent.

[WristPin]

F it! im breakin the glass out right now!

[cruiser88]

Originally Posted by WristPin

F it! im breakin the glass out right now!

[sandcruiser]

this look like it would work just fine- are the stock switches ground-switched? if so, this is a fairly simple add-in. otherwise it is more difficult or you just have to add new switches.

either way- I'm getting sick of my 80's switches. they get wet (it rains here) and /or dusty and stop working. I clean them, they work for a while, but it always ends up failing in the end.

a couple relays would be a nice fix.

Originally Posted by corax

wouldn't it be simpler this way?
- 2 Bosch style relays, 1 switch
- motor has ground on both sides when relays aren't energized, switch provides ground to activate relay
- move the switch in one direction, 1 relay is energized and supplies power to one side of motor, other relay provides ground path - reverse scenario for the other direction



. . . is there any reason this wouldn't work?
You could have constant power to the relays with no battery drain

[sandcruiser]

I just did this mod on my 80 passenger side window. It works much better now.
you can read about it here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ml#post4856388

essentially: at the qd for the switch I cut the red wire and the black wire and the blue/black wire.

I put 2 relays w/ the following poles:
relay 1:
30: to black wire to motor
87: to +12v (from blue/black wire)
87a: to ground (new wire)
86: to ground (new wire)
85: to black from switch

relay2:
30: to red wire to motor
87: to +12v (blue/black wire)
87a: to ground (new wire)
86: to ground (new wire)
85: to red wire @ switch

be sure you also reconnect the blue/black wire to itself. Ie: you're tapping into it for poles 87.
It would work even better if you ran +12v from a fuse from the battery. But I didn't do it that way 'cause I didn't feel like putting in the effort.

the window works better, both from the passenger switch and from the driver's seat.
the window lock no longer works (no loss to me).

enjoy