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Old 03-22-08, 04:52 AM   #1
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Is there much of a muchness between Adjustable Drop Draglinks?

Which ones have the adjustable portion on the straight part of the Draglink? - Or am I being lame thinking that one end needs to be removed so it can be adjusted?
NZ$538.79
AU$330.00


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Old 03-22-08, 09:54 AM   #2
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much of a muchness?? You guys crack me up.

Jonathan, my Procomp adjustable draglink adjustment is on the straight part of each end. Here's a pic. You do have to undo one end or the other to adjust it. I think the Pitman arm end is the best to undo. It took me at least 5 tries to get the arm adjusted so that I had the same steering wheel rotations to each side. After you get it adjusted, remove your steering wheel and put it on straight....much easier than trying to get the rotations correct AND the steering wheel centered. Btw, took me 2 or 3 tries with the steering wheel to be satisfied as well.

Mine cost about $160US if I remember correctly.
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Old 03-22-08, 10:21 AM   #3
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In theory, shouldn't the drag link, if properly adjusted, not require any steering wheel adjustment?


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Old 03-22-08, 11:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobiesbestfriend View Post
In theory, shouldn't the drag link, if properly adjusted, not require any steering wheel adjustment?
Yes, my initial thoughts as well. If you start with the pitman arm exactly centered and the steering wheel is also exactly centered (should be that way if it was with your old draglink). The problem is in knowing exactly how long to adjust your new drop draglink. You see it has these incredibly tight springs, two on each end, that sandwich the the balls on the pitman arm and the J arm. Then you have to get a very large, shallow screw started and tighted on both ends. When you tighten it, both springs compress which changed the effective length of the draglink. If you can manage to get it right on the first try, then viola, theory has met reality. I couldn't manage it.

Now it would seem that if you do play around with the new draglink until the roatations from side to side are perfect, then your steering wheel should be centered (again, assuming it was before). Well mine wasn't but it only takes a couple of minutes to pull the steering wheel.

Maybe the steering geometry changed with the lift and the new draglink? Don't know.


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Old 03-22-08, 11:47 AM   #5
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I must have gotten lucky first time, both times I've lifted Runners. I put the wheel in the middle with the pitman arm(presumably) in the middle of its rotation(straight down). Tires as straight ahead as possible. Then hold the drag link beside both the pitman and steering arm balls. Adjust threaded portions as necessary to lengthen or shorten drag link. Pull the tires as if turning to the right so that balls are further apart enough to get them into their mounting locations. pop drag link ends onto their respective balls and tighten. As you tighten tire will begin to center itself(or drag link if steering isn't locked. First time I did this I was off by maybe 10 deg. on the wheel, so adjusted slightly as the ball doesn't sit all the way into the socket on the drag link end. Next time I knew that so got er right. If it's not right, whether or not you adjust the steering wheel, you will have less turns to one side than the other. In other words larger turning radius one way than the other. Unless of course your lift/tires/backspacing doesn't allow you to get all the way to the ends of your pitman arm, and you hit steering stops first.


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Old 03-22-08, 02:42 PM   #6
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You are better off just to save your money and put X-over on it, no matter how well you adjust it, push pull steering SUCKS on lifted trucks!
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Old 03-26-08, 12:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoloco View Post
You are better off just to save your money and put X-over on it, no matter how well you adjust it, push pull steering SUCKS on lifted trucks!
2x. What he said.


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Old 03-26-08, 06:41 PM   #8
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I put a drop drag link on my 85 shortbox. Has a lot of play, never had before I put it on. I have the screw turned in tight too. Can't wait to get x-over steering. Next on the list.
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Old 03-28-08, 08:16 AM   #9
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Yes, X-Over is definately the way to go, but in the meantime, can be wheeling with a DDL until X-Over.
Shouldn't be any play at all in the steering. If the DDL is installed properly there should be almost no lost motion between the steering wheel and tires. Make sure you have all the little parts in there.


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Old 03-28-08, 08:32 AM   #10
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Yes, X-Over is definately the way to go, but in the meantime, can be wheeling with a DDL until X-Over.
Shouldn't be any play at all in the steering. If the DDL is installed properly there should be almost no lost motion between the steering wheel and tires. Make sure you have all the little parts in there.


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Old 03-28-08, 09:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85yoda View Post
I put a drop drag link on my 85 shortbox. Has a lot of play, never had before I put it on. I have the screw turned in tight too. Can't wait to get x-over steering. Next on the list.
I Agree with Hobiesbestfriend. Mine has no play. It had quite a bit until I figured out that one of mechanic's helpers that was helping me install the new suspension "conveniently" left out a spring in each end. He said it was easier to install that way!!


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