Bleeding the rear Load Sensing Proportioning Valve

Jonathan_Ferguson · 02-15-08, 12:59 AM

As the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve doesn't have a screwable nipple, is the Bolt that sought of points downward do the deed?

inkpot · 02-15-08, 02:50 AM

Howdy! My 85 pickup does have the normal bleeder nipple on there. I think it is aimed towards the front of the truck. Too dark to see right now, so I will check it in the morning. John

H2o · 02-15-08, 05:52 AM

can someone post a picture of this setup? i bought my truck with a flatbed and was wondering what that looked like. right now, i just have a rod sticking out of the valve.

thanks.

the truck doctor · 02-15-08, 10:29 PM

maybe this will help

Jonathan_Ferguson · 02-15-08, 11:41 PM

Jonathan_Ferguson · 02-16-08, 04:48 AM

Enlighten me fellas.

ms018kmf · 02-16-08, 09:39 AM

Mine's slightly different for the year but I've got my bleeder by that part of the LSPV. Both year LSPV's seem to have the other lines running the same. It looks sort of like the red circled part used to be the nipple.

FredTJ · 02-16-08, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ms018kmf

Mine's slightly different for the year but I've got my bleeder by that part of the LSPV. Both year LSPV's seem to have the other lines running the same. It looks sort of like the red circled part used to be the nipple.

Yup, mines the same.
Looks like the red circle in the photo is the bleeder.
Maybe yours broke and someone simply replaced it with a bolt.
Hard to tell from the photo.

Fred

ms018kmf · 02-16-08, 12:27 PM

The metal is pretty clean, like what you see when a bolt breaks. Tiny rocks pepper the hell out of parts down there.

inkpot · 02-16-08, 03:55 PM

Howdy! Mine looks pretty close to that. The red circle should be the bleeder, and the other one is just a nut/plug fitting, maybe for a pressure bleeder, or a check valve? Mine's a long bed, if that might make a difference. John

muiradaker8 · 02-19-08, 04:39 AM

Nice Photos It Is Explaining Me Each And Every Thing In The Photo. Good Photo Graphy.

missouriman · 02-19-08, 05:13 PM

ok, here is a little brake bleeding thing.

go to the vet's office, get a 60cc syringe. a bit of vacuum tube.
put some grease around the bleeder valve, open and pull out the fluid. you can get a 120cc.. but I find the 60 is easier to pull.
keep the rez full.

forestdan7 · 02-21-08, 10:09 AM

Loosening the bolt lets you bleed out the nipple which should be right next to it, under a rubber cap. This is unlike other bleeders, where the nipple itself unscrews.

I just did mine after replacing the hard brake lines. Bleed LR, RR, RF, LF, master cylinder, LSPV. That should do it.

purerockfury · 03-20-08, 06:09 PM

Not to pirate a thread, but it's better to keep all of the information
together in one place, instead of starting a new thread.

I have a 93 4Runner. Just replaced the front calipers and rubber
brake lines leading to them. It has new brake lines all around
that are about 2 yrs. old. The passenger front brake keeps
hanging up. It did before and after the new parts.

My question is:
Has anyone experienced the Proportioning Valve sticking?

Thanks

inkpot · 03-20-08, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purerockfury

Not to pirate a thread, but it's better to keep all of the information
together in one place, instead of starting a new thread.

I have a 93 4Runner. Just replaced the front calipers and rubber
brake lines leading to them. It has new brake lines all around
that are about 2 yrs. old. The passenger front brake keeps
hanging up. It did before and after the new parts.

My question is:
Has anyone experienced the Proportioning Valve sticking?

Thanks

Howdy! Sounds like you might have a warpped rotor. If not, then maybe a bent spindle or backing plate. the Proportioning valve makes a difference from front to rear, not side to side. I don't think it would be your problem. John

purerockfury · 03-22-08, 12:53 PM

I forgot to post up that with the new calipers, I put new rotors on too.

There are 3 lines on the Prop. valve. From what I can see, 1 input & 2 output.
Each leading to individual front brakes. That's why I was asking about it,
because of the 2 lines.

Any experience or thoughts?

inkpot · 03-22-08, 01:12 PM

Howdy! Hmm, well so much for that idea. The block you are describing sounds like it could just be a "T" junction box. Does it have anything else on it like a set screw or adjuster in the middle? Does your rig have the valve under the rear end like the pics earlier in this thread? Check all the hard line to the right front, looking for crimps or bends that were not originally there. Like something that has been moved to make access easier for maintenance. Good chance it would be at a mounting bracket, and that would be hard to see without removing the rubber grommets that hold the lines. Braking pressure in the line is much greater that the return pressure after you release the pedal. Are your calipers "hard" mounted to the knuckle like earlier trucks, or are they "floaters" like Chevies where they can move lefty righty on two large pins. If floaters, then pull the pins and buff them up with some fine sandpaper in case they are dragging. John

rockrash · 03-23-08, 12:50 AM

Heres my set up.Oh silly me I forgot I took mine off.

ms018kmf · 03-24-08, 01:41 PM

Brakes can stick if the wheel bearing is a bit loose. If there's a shudder at the sticking brake as it releases then I'd jack up that wheel and see if it can shake.

02-15-08, 12:59 AM	#1
Jonathan_Ferguson IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia TLCA# June 9th, 2002 Posts: 781	Bleeding the rear Load Sensing Proportioning Valve As the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve doesn't have a screwable nipple, is the Bolt that sought of points downward do the deed? __________________ 1986 Nuclear Reactor 1985 Toyota LN65R *LIFE AIN'T WORTH LIVING WHEN YOU DIE BEFORE YOU'RE MEANT TO!*

02-15-08, 02:50 AM	#2
inkpot IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chandler, Az. TLCA# 10338 Posts: 1,884	Howdy! My 85 pickup does have the normal bleeder nipple on there. I think it is aimed towards the front of the truck. Too dark to see right now, so I will check it in the morning. John __________________ 76 FJ55, Safari Grade. 350 SBC, Lockrightx2, SO, SR, PS, York on board, 35" Krawlers, and way too much junk in the trunk!!!! 85 Toyota mini truck for chase/support! CSC #41

02-15-08, 05:52 AM	#3
H2o IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2005 TLCA# 15012 Posts: 306	picture can someone post a picture of this setup? i bought my truck with a flatbed and was wondering what that looked like. right now, i just have a rod sticking out of the valve. thanks. __________________ 1974 Black FJ40 1987 Green Mini Truck

02-15-08, 10:29 PM	#4
the truck doctor IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tuscaloosa Ala. ROLL TIDE!!! Posts: 198	maybe this will help __________________ The truck doctor 1989 excab 33" procomps E-locker SAS'D 1987 excab 5:29's welded f/r,flatbed,35's 9.5xp wireless Last edited by the truck doctor; 08-19-08 at 08:58 PM.

02-15-08, 11:41 PM	#5
Jonathan_Ferguson IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia TLCA# June 9th, 2002 Posts: 781	__________________ 1986 Nuclear Reactor 1985 Toyota LN65R *LIFE AIN'T WORTH LIVING WHEN YOU DIE BEFORE YOU'RE MEANT TO!*

02-16-08, 04:48 AM	#6
Jonathan_Ferguson IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia TLCA# June 9th, 2002 Posts: 781	Enlighten me fellas. __________________ 1986 Nuclear Reactor 1985 Toyota LN65R *LIFE AIN'T WORTH LIVING WHEN YOU DIE BEFORE YOU'RE MEANT TO!*

02-16-08, 09:39 AM	#7
ms018kmf I'm freakin Irie damnit Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ethiopia Posts: 166	Mine's slightly different for the year but I've got my bleeder by that part of the LSPV. Both year LSPV's seem to have the other lines running the same. It looks sort of like the red circled part used to be the nipple. Attached Images __________________ 1994 Pickup 3.0, Total Chaos Caddy kit, Bilstein 9100's front/7100's rear, Centerforce Dual Friction, Red Optima, Flex-a-Lite Fan, TC Idler Arm, TC Diff Crossmember, Marlin rear bumper, fresh Toyota HG's with DOA Head Studs, Amsoil Synthetic Fluids everywhere and 33 BFG Muds. If grandma had wheels she would have been a streetcar.

02-16-08, 12:27 PM	#9
ms018kmf I'm freakin Irie damnit Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ethiopia Posts: 166	The metal is pretty clean, like what you see when a bolt breaks. Tiny rocks pepper the hell out of parts down there. __________________ 1994 Pickup 3.0, Total Chaos Caddy kit, Bilstein 9100's front/7100's rear, Centerforce Dual Friction, Red Optima, Flex-a-Lite Fan, TC Idler Arm, TC Diff Crossmember, Marlin rear bumper, fresh Toyota HG's with DOA Head Studs, Amsoil Synthetic Fluids everywhere and 33 BFG Muds. If grandma had wheels she would have been a streetcar.

02-16-08, 03:55 PM	#10
inkpot IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chandler, Az. TLCA# 10338 Posts: 1,884	Howdy! Mine looks pretty close to that. The red circle should be the bleeder, and the other one is just a nut/plug fitting, maybe for a pressure bleeder, or a check valve? Mine's a long bed, if that might make a difference. John Attached Images __________________ 76 FJ55, Safari Grade. 350 SBC, Lockrightx2, SO, SR, PS, York on board, 35" Krawlers, and way too much junk in the trunk!!!! 85 Toyota mini truck for chase/support! CSC #41

02-19-08, 04:39 AM	#11
muiradaker8 IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4	Nice Photos It Is Explaining Me Each And Every Thing In The Photo. Good Photo Graphy. __________________ Sheer Lingerie Herbal Remedies Hookless Shower Curtains

02-19-08, 05:13 PM	#12
missouriman IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 214	ok, here is a little brake bleeding thing. go to the vet's office, get a 60cc syringe. a bit of vacuum tube. put some grease around the bleeder valve, open and pull out the fluid. you can get a 120cc.. but I find the 60 is easier to pull. keep the rez full.

02-21-08, 10:09 AM	#13
forestdan7 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Deep, dark hills of eastern Kentucky TLCA# 17532 Posts: 320	Loosening the bolt lets you bleed out the nipple which should be right next to it, under a rubber cap. This is unlike other bleeders, where the nipple itself unscrews. I just did mine after replacing the hard brake lines. Bleed LR, RR, RF, LF, master cylinder, LSPV. That should do it. __________________ 1985 FJ60 1987 4Runner 2007 Honda XR650L

03-20-08, 06:09 PM	#14
purerockfury Ina4Runner,downbytheriver Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northcoast Posts: 327	Not to pirate a thread, but it's better to keep all of the information together in one place, instead of starting a new thread. I have a 93 4Runner. Just replaced the front calipers and rubber brake lines leading to them. It has new brake lines all around that are about 2 yrs. old. The passenger front brake keeps hanging up. It did before and after the new parts. My question is: Has anyone experienced the Proportioning Valve sticking? Thanks __________________ Way Cool Toyota Shirts & Hoodies: www.northcoastin.com -2001 Taco -1993 4runner

03-22-08, 12:53 PM	#16
purerockfury Ina4Runner,downbytheriver Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northcoast Posts: 327	I forgot to post up that with the new calipers, I put new rotors on too. There are 3 lines on the Prop. valve. From what I can see, 1 input & 2 output. Each leading to individual front brakes. That's why I was asking about it, because of the 2 lines. Any experience or thoughts? __________________ Way Cool Toyota Shirts & Hoodies: www.northcoastin.com -2001 Taco -1993 4runner

03-22-08, 01:12 PM	#17
inkpot IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chandler, Az. TLCA# 10338 Posts: 1,884	Howdy! Hmm, well so much for that idea. The block you are describing sounds like it could just be a "T" junction box. Does it have anything else on it like a set screw or adjuster in the middle? Does your rig have the valve under the rear end like the pics earlier in this thread? Check all the hard line to the right front, looking for crimps or bends that were not originally there. Like something that has been moved to make access easier for maintenance. Good chance it would be at a mounting bracket, and that would be hard to see without removing the rubber grommets that hold the lines. Braking pressure in the line is much greater that the return pressure after you release the pedal. Are your calipers "hard" mounted to the knuckle like earlier trucks, or are they "floaters" like Chevies where they can move lefty righty on two large pins. If floaters, then pull the pins and buff them up with some fine sandpaper in case they are dragging. John __________________ 76 FJ55, Safari Grade. 350 SBC, Lockrightx2, SO, SR, PS, York on board, 35" Krawlers, and way too much junk in the trunk!!!! 85 Toyota mini truck for chase/support! CSC #41

03-23-08, 12:50 AM	#18
rockrash IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fresno Posts: 106	Heres my set up.Oh silly me I forgot I took mine off.

03-24-08, 01:41 PM	#19
ms018kmf I'm freakin Irie damnit Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ethiopia Posts: 166	Brakes can stick if the wheel bearing is a bit loose. If there's a shudder at the sticking brake as it releases then I'd jack up that wheel and see if it can shake. __________________ 1994 Pickup 3.0, Total Chaos Caddy kit, Bilstein 9100's front/7100's rear, Centerforce Dual Friction, Red Optima, Flex-a-Lite Fan, TC Idler Arm, TC Diff Crossmember, Marlin rear bumper, fresh Toyota HG's with DOA Head Studs, Amsoil Synthetic Fluids everywhere and 33 BFG Muds. If grandma had wheels she would have been a streetcar.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode