Can I run 35's?

[ToyotaGuy88]

I have an 89' 3.0L 5spd with 4.88 gears, and 33's arent big enough for me so do you think I can run 35x12.50's under a 4 inch suspension lift with 4.88's? Or do I need 5.29's and a 6 inch lift? Or...should I just save my money and just wait to do a SAS? Is a SAS real difficult to do?

[tntoyota]

there is a formula that you can use to find out the RPM's but I cant find it right now....

You should be fine w/ the 4" i took the one off my RET couse it was too high, and the x member too low.....



now where'd I put that...

[Dave-T]

You should be fine with 4.88's

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Go buy some 35's and post some pics already.... A true 35 inch tire would want between a 4.88 and 5.29 depending on what your truck had stock.... You'll probably have some rubbing issues, but those can usually be solved with a hammer and sawsall....

An SAS isn't rocket science, but you'll want it welded by someone that knows what they are doing...

[KLF]

Borrow a set of 35's and give it a try, see how it feels on the road, maybe do a little bit of wheeling. I run 35's in the summer and I have 4.88's, it's fine, but each person has their own opinion once you're driving it. My guess is that you'll have more trouble getting them to not rub in the front, and keeping CVs and idler arms in the front.

You certainly don't wanna pay to have 5.29's installed in your front diff if you're planning to do a SAS anyway.

[knixen]

If you check out my rig, I ran up to 38s on 4" lift... with lots of cutting on my gen2 runner... I had 37s with just 2" of bodylift, and 35s with no lift at all...

[jtaco1]

I have 35's on my 88 4 Runner with no lift other than a shackle for the rear, which I still have to install. Lots of cutting, but it will work well. I still have 4.10 gears as well. The truck is mainly for wheeling though.

[tntoyota]

Originally Posted by jtaco1

I have 35's on my 88 4 Runner with no lift other than a shackle for the rear, which I still have to install. Lots of cutting, but it will work well. I still have 4.10 gears as well. The truck is mainly for wheeling though.

wheres some pics?

my RET 4runner is waiting for the 4th engine removal () and I could use this as motivation.

[theside00]

How are the 4:10s with the 35's. Must not drive up many hills. I got room to fit them but that is the only thing holding me back.

[Wayneraintree]

Here is JTaco1's thread on his 88' runner...no pics with the 35's yet though

C'mon JT!

LINK


*edit the gearing will be fine with 4.88 and 35's... just no sure how well the IFS will like the extra weight, traction, etc....

[jtaco1]

I will try and get the rest of the welding done this weekend and then post pictures. I don't have the rear shackles yet so it will be a little low in the rear, nor the body lift, but I will get pictures.

[jtaco1]

Originally Posted by theside00

How are the 4:10s with the 35's. Must not drive up many hills. I got room to fit them but that is the only thing holding me back.

Don't know, haven't driven it more than a few feet out of the garage to clean up, still building it. But it will most likely be towed every where since the tires stick about 5" outside of the body with 3" BS rims, PA doesn't like big tires much. It is mostly a trail truck.

[the truck doctor]

When My Truck Had 4:10's In It, I Barrowed My Brother -n -laws 35's It Was About The Same As Running 33's To Me!

[BARtO]

I run 36's with 4 inches of lift with No Problems And 4:10's with a 22re this is my daily driver and trail rig and still hauls down the highway @ 75mph+ so i think that you will be fine.Mind you mine is solid axle. Although I have put 35's on a stock ifs 3 inch body lift, welded the rear and beat the piss out of it. for almost a year and never broke anything.
So give it a shot.

[ken_79-fj40]

I had an 86 4 runner years ago with a 3 inch body lift , an add a leaf in back, cranked torsion bars in front and 35's. It was a 22re truck with 5.29's and it went great. I would think a 3.0 with 4.88's would turn 35's okay. I did go through idler arms quite frequently though. Most likely that was due to the cranked up bars. I basically had about 4-1/2" of lift. In back clearance was fine, and in the front the fenders "self clearanced" after the first trip off road. I put on cutout flares to cover up the bashed in fenders, and ran it that way until I got rid of the rig.

[jtaco1]

Here you go as promised, 35's with only a rear shackle 5" eye to eye, so about 1.5" lift in rear. The rest was cut out

[tntoyota]

that looks great

how did you accomplish that?

TB's rolled all the way up?

Body lift?

any rubbing?


THX


(GOSH I WANT BFG TO MAKE A 35/10.50 !!! )

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If you look again, the fenders are cut..... Looks great!!! Now, we're gonna need some action shots!

[jtaco1]

Thanks guys. All the truck has is a rear shackle lift of about 1.5", thats it for suspension, nothing cranked up, just the way I got it with the 235/75 tires. The front fenders are trimmed back about 3" or so, the firewall is cut and hammered back, and the back fenders were trimmed up about 2" and then rewelded. I am going to be putting a 1" body lift on it to get a little more clearance and to do a drivetrain lift.

Once I finish the brakes, lengthen the front driveshaft, put some shocks on the back, and weld the sliders on, I will get some action pictures.

[CookieJR]

You could also get the leafs re-arched and add one, rather than the hill billy shackles

[fortysixandtwo]

4.88s and 35s are fine. You wouldnt want to go 5.29s unless you are planning on running larger than 35" tires any time soon. I have 5.29s with 35s and I feel it would be much more optimal with 37s. it will be a tight squeeze with the fenders but a grinder or a sawzall takes care of that

A SAS is not difficult to do if you have the space, tools and a good knowledge of welding. You need a torch (can be done with a grinder or sawzall, but takes a lot longer) to cut off the IFS, a good welder to weld the hanger on and ideally a good lift to make things go a lot faster. Can be done without those "easy" tools though, but a good welder is mandatory. The hardest part about a SAS is coming up with the cash for all the parts. you want to go with the highest quality parts when you do a solid axle swap because your life and the lives of others are on the line when this thing hits the pavement. Check out marlincrawler.com forums, there are a LOT of SAS on their research board. Check that out to get an idea of what is invovled both cost and work wise.