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Old 12-02-07, 03:39 PM   2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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Alternator brush change

Why do my charge and brake lights keep coming on at the same time? It's alternator brush time!

Should take about an hour, give or take your bannana rating

This is for a 22RE, but the 3VZE will be about the same.

Step one: Disconnect battery!!!!!! We don't need to learn how to weld while doing this project....

Remove the alt from the vehicle.... on the 22R/RE it will come out the bottom with some dificulty... I was ablt to get mine out without draining the coolant and removing the lower rad hose, because the lower coolant tube that is attached to the block near the engine mount was not bolted on... it barely slipped out, but that's all you need.

On the 3VZE I think it comes out the top, but it's been a while since I did that one.

One it's out, you need to remove the end cover, then pull out the brush holder (See blue circled screws) on my 89 22RE it was in an orange rubber thing.
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Old 12-02-07, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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When I saw the condition of the shaft in my alt, and the relativley good condition of the brushes, I was doubtfull that the brushes were the problem, but it did do the trick.

Once the brush holder is out, pry it out of the rubber thing.

The 2 soldered connectors will need to be unsoldered.
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Old 12-02-07, 03:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's the ~ $6 dollar part....

With the old brushes out, the new ones can be soldered in, just make sure you leave enough room for the new brushes to extend almost all the way out of the holder... Make sense?

Here's a good site on how to solder electronics:

http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
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Old 12-02-07, 03:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Put it all back together, and stick it back in. A lot cheaper than a new alt, and it will probably go a lot longer than the $100+ replacement you'd get..... Long live Nippondenso!!!!
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Old 12-02-07, 05:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Great tech. For the record, if folks don't want to do the solder work the brushes in the holder are available from Toyota for $16.90 list ($12.68 CDan). The brushes are available from Toyota too. $3.60 ($2.70) for brushes, and the springs are a buck ($.75), each.

Most Toyota alternators take the replacement brush holders, my Camry does. My FJ60 alternator does not.

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Old 12-02-07, 05:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Pappy! Good to know!
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Old 12-02-07, 11:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Isn't there Oil lines to and from the Alternator?
Atleast I'm not expecting there to be a Vacuum pump on it.

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Old 12-03-07, 07:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Isn't there Oil lines to and from the Alternator?
Yes. It both cools and lubricates the alternator.

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Old 12-03-07, 09:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes. It both cools and lubricates the alternator.
Que?

I've never seen that.... Are you messin' with us?
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Old 12-03-07, 10:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2ndGenToyotaFan View Post
Que?

I've never seen that.... Are you messin' with us?
Who? Me?

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Old 12-03-07, 01:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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While there are Alternators out there that do require oil cooling, I have only heard of it on heavy equipment or commercial transport vehicles. never seen it personally, and certainly not on a mini-truck.

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Old 12-04-07, 02:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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While there are Alternators out there that do require oil cooling, I have only heard of it on heavy equipment or commercial transport vehicles. never seen it personally, and certainly not on a mini-truck.
Mine has Oil lines, otherwise how would it be lubricated?

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Old 12-04-07, 05:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Mine has Oil lines, otherwise how would it be lubricated?
I'm calling BS on this. Lemme see a picture.

Bearings in alternators are sealed.

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Old 12-04-07, 10:18 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm calling BS on this. Lemme see a picture.
X2. Somebody's funny weed.

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Old 12-04-07, 08:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Mine has Oil lines, otherwise how would it be lubricated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLF View Post
I'm calling BS on this. Lemme see a picture.

Bearings in alternators are sealed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foreigner View Post
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Old 12-04-07, 10:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Do you have any larger pics?
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Old 12-05-07, 08:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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<< Eating hat! lol

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Old 12-05-07, 04:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I can't tell WTF those are pictures of, but I don't see an alternator in there ANYWHERE.

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Old 12-05-07, 06:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Well, at least that settles the "Do they have mud in Austrailia" debate....
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Old 12-05-07, 11:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I can't tell WTF those are pictures of, but I don't see an alternator in there ANYWHERE.
Nah, you're right, those Oil lines are for my Turbo.

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Old 12-06-07, 04:30 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Nice writeup and great pictures. I'm inspired now. Time to change them out.

Funny thing is, every time my alt and brake lights come on, the voltage never dips. I wonder if it's a ground somewhere instead of the brushes.

But if it's this easy, I'm going to do it anyway. Then I'll chase down a ground.

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Old 12-06-07, 09:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My lights came on for months before I changed them, and I never had a power issue. Funny thing was the lights would come on right when I started the truck, but if I turned it off and restarted, then most of the time they would stay off..... They never came on while driving, either right when I started and stay on... or not at all....
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Old 12-08-07, 08:59 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Nice write up Jerod.

But MY alternator DOES have oil lines running to it. No, I'm not kidding.

Dan

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Old 12-08-07, 07:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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At this point we're going to have to see pics..... clear pics.... Sorry Dan! Hehe
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Old 12-08-07, 07:09 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My oil lines may be missing! Please post pics- I only have the ones that run from the alternator to the blinker fluid reservoir.............
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Old 12-09-07, 09:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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This is the clearest pic I could find. I'll go get more tomorrow afternoon.

See, the oil lines on the diesel have to run to the alternator for the vacuum pump. If the oil lines were to fail, the alternator would still work, but I doubt my brakes would be worth a dang. :flipoff:

So yes, my alternator does have oil lines running to it. But on the 22R-E engine, the alternator didn't. If anyone else is messing with theirs on the 2LT-E, the copper washer for the banjo fitting is a pain to replace. Apparently they don't cross over to a N.A. Toyota part.

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Old 12-09-07, 09:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Lame. Pic didn't work right and I don't seem to be able to edit it to work...

Dan
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Old 12-09-07, 10:34 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Dan.... that's too clean! Bring it to the 45 Run next year and take on the pit!!!
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Old 12-10-07, 03:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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That's a pic right after I first finished the conversion.

Right now, not so much. I've put 3000+ miles on it from NM to MT and back in the past two weeks. I actually like my truck after it's been on the road in the winter. The little spikes of water that freeze around my rear hubs look awesome.

It's right now in the garage warming up (and melting) so I can clean it up enough for a picture of the alternator and it's oil lines to show up.

Other than for maintenance (and maybe one or twice a year to get some good wax on there to protect it), trucks shouldn't be clean. They're trucks. you have no idea how much fun I make of my dad when he puts Armor-All on his tires....

As to the 45 run.... if it's not my HJ, it'll be this. And I was thinking about a snorkle while driving home today....

Dan

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Old 02-23-09, 06:35 PM   #30 (permalink)
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This thread saved me $165 today. I was almost finished with a 120 mile trip this morning, just pulling into town, and the 'Runner conked out. No Juice. Battery read 9.xx volts. My bro-in-law came jumped it enough to get to the house.

Rebuilt alternator: $170

Brushes: $5.09 and a little relaxing wrench time

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