Ok, I had worries about the vented rotor swap for a long time, not sure why but even with all the info I didn't find a definite absolute answer to everything I needed. I did it a few weeks ago and failed to take pics but I'll get some here in a week or so. This was done on a 1984 toyota solid axle. The only year this would really be different from my research is on a 1980 or earlier axle.
Parts I had-
Front calipers off 89 4runner with 22re
NWOR pads
Parts I bought-
1984 FJ60 rotors
Bearing Seals
Bearing Grease
Ok this was no different than just changing brakes. I read the FAQ at Pirate 10000 times and searched every toyota tech site I could find. The Pirate FAQ tells you two different part numbers for wheel studs you should use. Well, I dont assfawk my studs up when I remove them and never did know why they didn't just say in the FAQ that your stock studs work and don't need to be replace unless you break them or fawk the threads up. Im thinking I cant be the only one that found it hard to locate a piece of info on the internet or elsewhere that made this swap clear.
I did it just like any old brake job, tore off the hub dials, hubs, cleaned the bearings in solvent, etc.
For a little more detail here is what I did when it came time to modify. The stock solid axle hardline between the caliper soft line and caliper was too short, and they broke when I was removing them anyway. Went to Checker and found brake lines with the right metric fittings, but I had to cut the ends off and re flare them with a flaring tool (15 bucks at checker, will also do larger brake and fuel lines, good investment, one of my favorites in fact). I made the brake lines, and tightened one end into the soft rubber brake line. Next I took my hub and removed the solid axle rotor. I hosed the studs and bolt ends with pb blaster before I even took the hub dial off. I soaked the backside of the studs and bolts with pb once I had them off the spindles. I hit each stud with mapp gas for about 30 sec to a min to warm them up and it really made them easy to get out. I used a center punch on a few of them and on the hard ones an old acorn nut and a big hammer helped. Then the fj60 rotor just bolted right back on just like the non vented solid rotor. Then I used a steel drift about 5/8 in diameter and pounded my old studs back through the hub and rotor. Greased bearings, cleaned out hub blah blah, and bolted back on like you normally would. I had a hell of a time finding a 54 mm socket anywhere for less than 25 bucks plus shipping, so I went to the local tool king and bought a 55mm socket for 11 bucks, and it worked fine. I then put my IFS caliper on and bolted it on just like the SA caliper would normally. I made a small bend in my brake line by sliding the fitting to the end of the line, grabbing it with my thumb and wrapping it around a screwdriver. They don't kink that easy and you only need a bender for tight 90 degree turns. Bled the brakes up and boom, all done. Easy
Parts I had-
Front calipers off 89 4runner with 22re
NWOR pads
Parts I bought-
1984 FJ60 rotors
Bearing Seals
Bearing Grease
Ok this was no different than just changing brakes. I read the FAQ at Pirate 10000 times and searched every toyota tech site I could find. The Pirate FAQ tells you two different part numbers for wheel studs you should use. Well, I dont assfawk my studs up when I remove them and never did know why they didn't just say in the FAQ that your stock studs work and don't need to be replace unless you break them or fawk the threads up. Im thinking I cant be the only one that found it hard to locate a piece of info on the internet or elsewhere that made this swap clear.
I did it just like any old brake job, tore off the hub dials, hubs, cleaned the bearings in solvent, etc.
For a little more detail here is what I did when it came time to modify. The stock solid axle hardline between the caliper soft line and caliper was too short, and they broke when I was removing them anyway. Went to Checker and found brake lines with the right metric fittings, but I had to cut the ends off and re flare them with a flaring tool (15 bucks at checker, will also do larger brake and fuel lines, good investment, one of my favorites in fact). I made the brake lines, and tightened one end into the soft rubber brake line. Next I took my hub and removed the solid axle rotor. I hosed the studs and bolt ends with pb blaster before I even took the hub dial off. I soaked the backside of the studs and bolts with pb once I had them off the spindles. I hit each stud with mapp gas for about 30 sec to a min to warm them up and it really made them easy to get out. I used a center punch on a few of them and on the hard ones an old acorn nut and a big hammer helped. Then the fj60 rotor just bolted right back on just like the non vented solid rotor. Then I used a steel drift about 5/8 in diameter and pounded my old studs back through the hub and rotor. Greased bearings, cleaned out hub blah blah, and bolted back on like you normally would. I had a hell of a time finding a 54 mm socket anywhere for less than 25 bucks plus shipping, so I went to the local tool king and bought a 55mm socket for 11 bucks, and it worked fine. I then put my IFS caliper on and bolted it on just like the SA caliper would normally. I made a small bend in my brake line by sliding the fitting to the end of the line, grabbing it with my thumb and wrapping it around a screwdriver. They don't kink that easy and you only need a bender for tight 90 degree turns. Bled the brakes up and boom, all done. Easy
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Get some pics and I'll FAQ this Bad Larry! 
