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Old 05-30-07, 01:03 PM   #31
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On the hotrod pipe, if you didn't know already the LHD trucks have a RHS mounted PS pump and the RHD trucks are vice-versa. I'm not sure you could find a P/N for your specific application. BTW I thought the rad with the elbowed outlet only came on the 2nd gens, maybe its turbo specific I will need to have a look I guess. could you measure the core height to see if its 2WD compatible ?

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Old 05-30-07, 02:03 PM   #32
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This is an excellent write up.

Thanks.
And you even answeed some trans bolt pattern questions I had

This thread belongs in the FAQ!


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Found my Haynes manual, shoved it under the leg of my bench to level it out.
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Old 05-30-07, 02:04 PM   #33
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This is an excellent write up.

Thanks.
And you even answeed some trans bolt pattern questions I had

This thread belongs in the FAQ!
Of course, Jerod has already submitted it in the FAQ


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Old 05-30-07, 04:57 PM   #34
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could you measure the core height to see if its 2WD compatible ?
I sure could. But I'm on the road for nearly another month, so I won't be able to get to it until at least then.

HOWEVER, I can tell you that the radiator is a standard Toyota core. When I took it to the radiator shop to have the outlet moved (it was originally on the far RH side) hoping to avoid the most hated hotrod part they noted that it was a perfect match for (I *think*) the V6 radiator, other than the pipe locations. It sure seemed to me like it was just as tall as the 22R-E radiator was, although it is MUCH heavier. The elbow is original though, it originally exited parallel to the core, facing the LH side of the truck.

So, I'll see if I can remember to measure it when I get home next (feel free to remind me if I've forgotten). I *should* get to go home around June 23 or so. You just need the height of the core?

The RH PS pump would be on an LHD 2LT-E truck only right? I wasn't quite willing to risk taking the chance that it would be compatible with a PS pump from a 2L, so I made due with what I had. I do know that I'm about the only guy on toyotadieselmadness that seems to have run into this exact problem. I'll have to put the correct pump on the "to-do" list, because it would also allow me to put the factory mechanical fan back on. But it's definitely at the bottom of that "to-do" list now.

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Last edited by DanS HJ-45; 05-30-07 at 04:58 PM. Reason: remembered that elbow was OEM
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Old 05-30-07, 11:11 PM   #35
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So, I'll see if I can remember to measure it when I get home next (feel free to remind me if I've forgotten). I *should* get to go home around June 23 or so. You just need the height of the core?
Thanks ! I need just the core height everything else is the same. I want to see if a stockish turbo rad exists that fits in a 2WD 3rd gen. I would like to use the turbo specific water outlet/thermostat housing, but then again I could just have my current rad. cap... capped. I just don't want to butcher it at this point because I will need it as-is in the LN130 that will remain NA either in a 2L2 or a 3L fashion
Quote:
The RH PS pump would be on an LHD 2LT-E truck only right? I wasn't quite willing to risk taking the chance that it would be compatible with a PS pump from a 2L, so I made due with what I had.
Unfortunately the PS pump support is integral with the engine mount and the alt. mount. I have a RHD alt in the shop and *IIRC* it doesn't fit the LHD lower support at all.


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Old 05-31-07, 06:15 AM   #36
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Quote:
Unfortunately the PS pump support is integral with the engine mount and the alt. mount.
Ahhh, THAT's why I kept the setup I have. I knew there was a good reason.

Dan


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Old 05-31-07, 07:06 AM   #37
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I am going to replace my 2LT-II with the 1KZT later this summer, and will be posting some info...


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Old 06-03-07, 03:27 PM   #38
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How much did you spend on this swap? My 22re is dead! and I was thinking about doing the 3.4 5vz-fe swap, but if this swap is as easy as you say besides the wiring I might do it instead. Do you have any #'s on the new motor as in hp and torque? My rig will be strictly off road so fuel milage will not be an issue. It just means I will be able to go farther on the trail. Let me know what you think.


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Old 06-03-07, 05:12 PM   #39
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Well I told my wife that I think I want to go diesel when it's engine time, and the first thing out of her mouth was "What about the noise???" So Dan, how's it sound? What kind of muffler/exhaust are you running?
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Old 06-03-07, 08:42 PM   #40
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I have a 2.5" exhaust with a single muffler (Magnaflow IIRC--the one with the better warranty ). It is quieter than the 22R-E was. In fact, right after I got it done I drove it about 500 miles without any muffler (just the OEM dump from the turbo and exiting right where the muffler should be). The turbo whine was SOOOO cool there. The only reason I put on a muffler was that at a certain speed, going up hill, I got a wierd resonance that was pretty loud. It is smooth too (I was worried about that because I used the solid mass flywheel). It's at least as smooth as it was with the gas engine, maybe smoother.

Quote:
How much did you spend on this swap? My 22re is dead! and I was thinking about doing the 3.4 5vz-fe swap, but if this swap is as easy as you say besides the wiring I might do it instead. Do you have any #'s on the new motor as in hp and torque? My rig will be strictly off road so fuel milage will not be an issue. It just means I will be able to go farther on the trail. Let me know what you think.
I spent around 9 grand doing mine, but that includes a bunch of other stuff. I didn't leave a bearing unchanged, I put in new seats, etc... I think the actual cost to get the diesel in and running was around $5,500.

I *think* the 2LT-E is rated around 105HP, but I can't find that number anywhere. Either way, it's FAR peppier and torque-ier than the gas engine. In fact, it feels better than my Dad's 2001 Taco. The torque actually worries me a bit, I feel like I could snap a driveshaft pretty easily if I wasn't careful. In low range, my Toyota is comparable to the old Dodge's we've got (flat fender power wagons).

The downside of a turbo diesel for off roading is that there are some flat spots in the torque band that the engine may not be able to accelerate out of. There are hills that I can climb at 35mph, or 28mph, but 31 just doesn't work. You can downshift, or you can carry more speed, but it's more complicated than a normally aspirated engine. Of course, once the turbo spools up, I'm usually taking my foot off the gas because it just winds up really fast.

If I were looking to build a rock crawler, I'd look at either a 3L engine (same mechanical issues as this, but no hard electricals), or a 1KZ-TE. Both are pretty much immune to the head cracking issues associated with the 2LT-E (and I'd worry about hammering it too hard), and the 3L, being normally aspirated, would have a more conventional torque curve. I understand that they are very similar in driveability to the 2LT-E (aside from the turbo's ability to handle high altitudes better). But that said, I have been nothing but amazed at mine off the roads. In fact, if I did a lot of that, I'd either install a hand throttle or much stronger throttle return springs. When you hit any bump of consequence, your foot bouces off and the drop in power makes you virtually stop, which bounces your foot onto the throttle, which makes you leap forward like a jackrabbit... I'm sure you know the drill, but the diesel has been the most noticeable vehicle I've ever driven like that.

Dan

PS-last I checked, a 3L engine was around 3 grand, and it's a one wire hookup to make it run....


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Old 06-04-07, 05:16 PM   #41
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http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/

this is also a pretty good write up on a 91. not quite as long and detailed but good none the less.


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Old 06-04-07, 07:04 PM   #42
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http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/

this is also a pretty good write up on a 91. not quite as long and detailed but good none the less.
James is a wealth of information. And his truck looks great. He even bot a blurb in "Diesel Power" magazine. Not with a picture of a diesel Toyota or anything, just a mention of his site. He's famous!

His project was what convinced me to put the diesel in mine, except at the time I was hoping to find a 2LII-T like he has.

Dan


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Old 08-21-07, 08:07 PM   #43
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Quick update:

I have now had my second part failure since the conversion over a year ago. There are only three non-Toyota parts used in the conversion. The coolant tube (which loosened), the electric fan, and the relay for that fan. Well, the other day I noticed that the radio shack relay (used because it was available) looked like it had gotten pretty hot at some point. Well, today on the drive home I parked in the driveway and the fan just kept making noise. Turns out the RS relay failed closed so the fan wouldn't shut off when I shut the truck off.

I just turned the thermostat up until it shut off via the control from that relay.

So, to date: that's two little problems with it. Both of them non-Toyota parts.

Let that be a lesson kids.

A whole 20 minutes to replace the relay (with another RS relay, because I don't have time to look into it more today), but next time I get some time off, it's time to redo that. In fact, I think I'll simply use that relay to power another relay which will actually turn on the fan (from a hot battery bus), because that way I can also add a completely separate power supply for the fan control, just in case the thermostat ever fails or something.

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Old 05-27-08, 03:03 PM   #44
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Any more updates?

I am looking to ditch my FZJ80 for a 22RE 4Runner and this swap has piqued my interest something fierce. The cost alone is a huge plus for me since I was looking at AT LEAST $10K for a Cummins 4BTA swap in the 80.

The only thing that seems like something I can't handle would be the wiring, everything else looks decently straight forward.



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Old 05-27-08, 03:51 PM   #45
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Updates????

Well, I put a new stereo in it. And it's getting new tires this week (but the same tires it had on it, just not bald now ).

I still love the thing to death, even with the 2LT-E.

If you are looking into it, go 1KZ-TE. It's no more complicated of a swap, but the 2LT-E is just not a robust enough engine for long term peace of mind. The wiring really isn't all that hard, but it is time consuming (and if you aren't at least decent with electrical work, then it would be a challenge).

If I was just going to wheel, I'd build the 80 with a diesel. For daily driving as well, the mini/runner with a diesel is really hard to beat. For the best of both, it'd be a SAS 3rd generation 4-runner (ok, 2nd generation 4-runner really) with a 1KZ-TE. (at least, in my opinion)

Dan


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Old 05-27-08, 06:33 PM   #46
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By "update" I meant, how's it workin out for ya? Any problems rear their head? etc...

Also, about the 1KZ, wouldn't parts be pretty hard to source in the US compared to the 2L-T?


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Old 05-27-08, 08:58 PM   #47
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By "update" I meant, how's it workin out for ya? Any problems rear their head? etc...
Not yet It continues to run like a top, and it really is as awesome as the day I first finished it. Every time I drive it it impresses me, and I don't know why.

Quote:
Also, about the 1KZ, wouldn't parts be pretty hard to source in the US compared to the 2L-T?
Since I have a 2LT-E, parts are already hard enough to find, certainly no harder than the 1KZ would be. Really it's not that they are hard to find, but that it takes a couple days to get them if you need them. The "hard" part of finding parts is getting the part number. CDan has been great at finding part numbers, and having an EPC of your own helps an awful lot too (although TDM is tremendously useful for finding part numbers too).

Dan


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Old 05-27-08, 09:14 PM   #48
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Cool thanks for the info.

For some reason I was thinking you put in a 2LT and not a 2LT-E. I would think a 2LT would be an even easier swap than the E.

Anyway, thanks for this post, I'm sure I'll be going over it several times in the next few weeks/months.



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Old 06-07-08, 07:40 PM   #49
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Here's an update for ya!

I've been pining over my bald tires for a while. At 100K+ miles, they were getting kind of threadbare. But, as picky as I am, you know I couldn't just buy new tires (also, that would be easy, and I don't do easy). Nope, I had to take the original wheels (and I actually bought a fifth matching wheel for the spare), get them powdercoated as close to the original silver/gray as possible, and THEN buy new tires.

It's a good thing I have been out of town for the past couple weeks in training, as I knew it would take a while, but my powdercoaters (these wheels don't fit in my oven) had some delays, so the faux-lux ended up sitting on blocks in the shop (in the way of Dad's Power Wagon ) for nearly three weeks waiting to get the wheels back. Well, yesterday on my way back to the airport I finally got my wheels picked up, and got some new BFG A/T 31x10.50R15s put on. If BFG made a 32x10.00 I would have rather used that, but oh well, these have done great for me for the previous 100+ thousand miles, so I'm pretty happy.

Anyway, even though I'm stuck in St. Louis, my Dad must have wanted to get his Red Power Wagon out, so he put the wheels/tires back on the faux-lux for me.

It looks good enough I should probably wash the truck now, just so the rest of it looks as clean and stock as the tires. (no, I won't shine the tires, because that is lame to the m4x0RBz!)

Dan
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Old 06-07-08, 08:30 PM   #50
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Sweet Dan! I'll inspect them personally in late Aug. Hehehe
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Old 06-13-08, 06:03 PM   #51
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Now that I'm home: better pictures. Also, I'm busy washing it right now just so it matches the new (old) wheels and their as-close-as-possible original color.
Name:  new tires 1.jpg
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And an overall picture.... they look fantastic IMHO.
Name:  new tires 2.jpg
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On a related note, I'm posting a second set of wheels for sale in the classified's section. Already powdercoated a gunmetal gray sort of color.

Dan


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Old 06-13-08, 10:32 PM   #52