My Bad 91 Runner on 39.5's (should have got 42's)

[83Fjwagon]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

I would say your lucky then. Now if we were talking later model IFS thats a different story. And "knowing your weakness" can only take you so far IMO.

The torsion front end is more "HEAVY DUTY" than the Taco's.That's why Toyota put it in the HILUX's worldwide.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Enough IFS bashing. I guess someone should tell the 100's of thousands of IFS Toys out there getting the shit beat out of them that they should have broken by now....

[tntoyota]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

Lol not to be so blunt but IFS is garbage. The who system is the weak point. From the multiple angles in the tierod, to the idler arm, to the weak tierod ends, to the CV's, to the horrible articulation which makes things even rougher. A locker doesnt put more stress on the front end it takes some off. The locker in the front stops a tire from spinning faster and suddenly slamming down and catching traction.

Seriously we cant drive through a mud puddle without 44's and the Paris Dakar, and Camel trophys are done with no bigger than 33's.





Other countrys feel differently about there setups they dont all drive like us or in most conditions like us , we 4wheel for luxury they might for nessesity you would (adapt) drive differently with that notion.


The Toyota 86-95 is the best IFS on the planet. (H1 is tied with Toy)

What is the who system?


Yes SA is better but not always the cure all. (Portals are!!!)


The locker does add stress, 100% to each side under power, put a locker in the front turn this method is more commonly used than "the locker stops the tire from spinning and suddenly slaming down and catching traction" in an open diff torqe goes to the wheel with the LEAST amount of traction and this keeps it from spewing its guts when it gets traction suddenly.



If you never needed articulation you would opt for the better ground clearence. (sand, snow, mud, planes areas)


If you always needed articulation you would opt for the SA. (Rocks, ahh?, mountanis areas)


There will never be one 4wd system that works perfictly in any and all conditions, sorry the H1 will never be a SA, and an SA will never be a IS.

[tntoyota]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

Lol not to be so blunt but IFS is garbage.

He has to be talking about Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Kea, Mitsubishi, Nissan..................................etc.





Possable exeptions include: J#*p, Dodge 1ton. Only cause theire SFA, not cause they'll run for forever .

[r0nin89]

I still stand by saying that IFS is garbage and coilover toyota IFS holds up a hell of alot better. If your gonna wheel anything but dessert buy a SA rig to save yourself.

[tntoyota]

Knixen, has anyone up there ever used 5:71's?


I'm trying to figure out if they even hold up in IFS Toy's (7.5")

[knixen]

Maybe someone on Iceland has used 5:71, but I dont know. According to gearinstalls.com they are much stronger than you think.

I will go for SA if i get it approved here in Norway, the plan is then to use front axle and fittings from mid 90s lj70/73 with coils. But the main concern is legal problems. I have found myself a 77 40 series wich I am going to buy, and I will then consider selling my runner.

r0nin89, we get it. You hate IFS, but why are u posting 5 posts saying the same??? Most of us have learned to read and understand english quite well... and we still run ifs trucks...

I have run my truck with 35/37/38s and soon 36s 15000miles with nothing else than normal service... And wheeled it on snow, mud and rocks...

[knixen]

Here are some new pix! Spent most of my working day today mounting the tires...

Removing the 2" BL soon, and my safari snorkel is arriving within a few days... Looking forward to it...

The outer rings are painted in the same colour as the car... Looks not to hairy...

[r0nin89]

Originally Posted by knixen

r0nin89, we get it. You hate IFS, but why are u posting 5 posts saying the same??? Most of us have learned to read and understand english quite well... and we still run ifs trucks...

I have run my truck with 35/37/38s and soon 36s 15000miles with nothing else than normal service... And wheeled it on snow, mud and rocks...

Ha its not like people arent responding trying to tell me I'm wrong so I'll keep saying it all I want as long as theres someone there going IFS is fine for 38's. Yeah superb idea. Get that solid axle under that rig with longfields and you'll have something built to actually handle the tires. Right now your weak link is in a real expensive spot...

[knixen]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

Ha its not like people arent responding trying to tell me I'm wrong so I'll keep saying it all I want as long as theres someone there going IFS is fine for 38's. Yeah superb idea. Get that solid axle under that rig with longfields and you'll have something built to actually handle the tires. Right now your weak link is in a real expensive spot...

The issue here isnt wether I will go sas or not, but legal here in norway. I CANT SWAP WITHOUT LOSING MY PLATES!!!! So until I have a pre approval from the norwegian department of vehicles it will be an IFS RUNNER!

And there are lots of runners and trucks here with 35/36/37/38s! No one with particular problems regarding to big tires...

I was about to call you stupid who kept posting the same message, but when I assume Im stupid answering every time...

But I agree with you to some extent, and I really want to go SAS with my truck. But since this has become my offroad car and these are worth much money here I am concidering selling it and buying a cheaper car for offroading.... have found a 40s series LC...

I expect to get 20000-30000usd for my car here... And thats a fact!!!

[r0nin89]

I'm not criticizing for you not doing the swap anyway. I'm just saying you'll have a sweet truck with a solid axle under it. FJ40 sounds mighty cold for there, might wanna get the hardtop one The early 1990's FJ80's and mid 1990's FJ60's they sold in America under the name "Landcruiser" is another good starting point especially for a terrain like yours. Already solids axle with a good steering box.

[knixen]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

I'm not criticizing for you not doing the swap anyway. I'm just saying you'll have a sweet truck with a solid axle under it. FJ40 sounds mighty cold for there, might wanna get the hardtop one The early 1990's FJ80's and mid 1990's FJ60's they sold in America under the name "Landcruiser" is another good starting point especially for a terrain like yours. Already solids axle with a good steering box.

I know it will be sweet if I go SAS Hope to be able to...

I have liked the 40s since I was a little kid, and hope that I will own one soon. Both the 60s and 80s are great cars, but the 60s in Norway are usually crowded with rust. And the 80s are more expencive than the one I god. That the FJ40 is cold is not and issue, since its not a DD. I sell Suzuki cars for a living and drive a car from work, my wife has another car

[nicko]

Originally Posted by knixen

Maybe someone on Iceland has used 5:71, but I dont know. According to gearinstalls.com they are much stronger than you think.

I will go for SA if i get it approved here in Norway, the plan is then to use front axle and fittings from mid 90s lj70/73 with coils. But the main concern is legal problems. I have found myself a 77 40 series wich I am going to buy, and I will then consider selling my runner.

r0nin89, we get it. You hate IFS, but why are u posting 5 posts saying the same??? Most of us have learned to read and understand english quite well... and we still run ifs trucks...

I have run my truck with 35/37/38s and soon 36s 15000miles with nothing else than normal service... And wheeled it on snow, mud and rocks...

Most of the 38" runners and hilux here in Iceland are using 5.71

Greetings from Iceland

[r0nin89]

Dont go 5.71's! Horrible ring with how thing it is. Personally I wouldnt go lower than 4.88's. A friend runs 40's hawgs and 5.29's with a 22re and he knows its way undergeared. I think the best thing to do to keep your strength in your ring is to get a turbo tranny with the low first gear. That can make up for being under geared just as well as the proper gears.

I'll be running 4.88's with 36's and think that will be perfect.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

5.71=Thin? Please read this.

http://gearinstalls.com/410suck.htm

[knixen]

I think 5:71 gears are underestimated... Concidered it for my car, but got hold of 5:29 from a friend who had sold his car! And got them the day I needed them....

[JJS]

If you have the 5.71 gears cryo'ed, you will considerably increase their strength.

[beatdown83fj60]

I've had both IFS and solid axle trucks (many of them lol). Toyota has a good IFS system. I've also had two Tacos. I must say that when 180k miles comes on the clicker, my tacos needed a lot more front end work than my regular IFS pickups and 4runners did. The coils sagged, steeering rack ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) needed to be replaced, wheel bearings (dont try this at home!), and control arm bushings all needed to be replaced. The taco front wheel bearing is not something you do at home with a brass drift, a hammer, and a few sockets where the older torsion bar ifs was. And I don't think I ever needed to replace a torsion bar, they could hold the world up. That said in stock form I think an sa truck and ifs truck are equal. Where you may not break a cv on a stock sa truck you will break a j-arm if you are wheeling it hard enough to break a cv, and on an sa truck. Its all a tossup. I think as long as you don't throw a big gaudy bracket lift on an IFS truck it will do fine.

[tntoyota]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

Dont go 5.71's! Horrible ring with how thing it is. Personally I wouldnt go lower than 4.88's. A friend runs 40's hawgs and 5.29's with a 22re and he knows its way undergeared. I think the best thing to do to keep your strength in your ring is to get a turbo tranny with the low first gear. That can make up for being under geared just as well as the proper gears.

I'll be running 4.88's with 36's and think that will be perfect.

You mean this tranny ;


You keep buying it & they'll keep making it, junk that is
85 4R ReT AT
86 4x *ReT 5ps*
88 4x V6 Ex Cab
91 4x 4cyl. wrecked, wont take $100k4 it
92 Fj80 "Superleggera"
94 4R 4x "Baby Cruz"
93 T100 4x 4:87
various Ferrari's & Porsche's
1 MegaCruiser & a 500D "Magnum PI Helicopter"



This truck was purchased with a 4" "TrailBlocker" already installed. I think I can take it back down, still blueprinting it hopeing the overall weight will keep breaking to a minimum.

Originally Posted by knixen

I think 5:71 gears are underestimated... Concidered it for my car, but got hold of 5:29 from a friend who had sold his car! And got them the day I needed them....

You got a CAR you want to put 5:71's in thats EXTREM!!

Originally Posted by JJS

If you have the 5.71 gears cryo'ed, you will considerably increase their strength.

Thanks for this info, HOW do I find someone that will dip'em?

Originally Posted by beatdown83fj60

I've had both IFS and solid axle trucks (many of them lol). Toyota has a good IFS system. I've also had two Tacos. I must say that when 180k miles comes on the clicker, my tacos needed a lot more front end work than my regular IFS pickups and 4runners did. The coils sagged, steeering rack ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) needed to be replaced, wheel bearings (dont try this at home!), and control arm bushings all needed to be replaced. The taco front wheel bearing is not something you do at home with a brass drift, a hammer, and a few sockets where the older torsion bar ifs was. And I don't think I ever needed to replace a torsion bar, they could hold the world up. That said in stock form I think an sa truck and ifs truck are equal. Where you may not break a cv on a stock sa truck you will break a j-arm if you are wheeling it hard enough to break a cv, and on an sa truck. Its all a tossup. I think as long as you don't throw a big gaudy bracket lift on an IFS truck it will do fine.

I have parted two out very NOT impressed, I 2nd that.


BTW, the 86-95 is not good, it's the best!


1: Equal lenght control arms (well almost) very hard to knock out of allignment (CHEVY!!!)


2: Torsion bar on TOP of frame, extremly hard to KO when it's lifted. (NISSAN!!!)
Is there even another manufacture with TB on top?


3: Ajustable suspension, if done right.


4: Torsions can only be installed (2mk) ONE WAY, cant be F'd up. (NISSAN!!)


5: Lots of aftermarket support, as is most often NOT the case w/ many other IFS's.



I can probably continue but I'll stop here

[tntoyota]

OK Knixen, how are the DOT regs in youre country, do you have enforcement officers that patrol the steets looking for "Law breakers"?

Or are you obigated to once a year inspections that you have to take the vehical to?



Is it modifications in general or is it more bumper hight?



My ratonal is (not recomending) IF I wanted to run a 500h.p 22RE, nitrus injected, super motor, bad euough, I would once a year (as per emissions laws in NA) swap my motor have it tested, then switch back, as most enfocement officers here would not know in the event I was pulled or they would not ENFORCE it altogether, (I would cut it off before he could hear it )




If it's bumber height I would make a flip down pin in place type bumper, OFF-Road flip up, pin in place, ON-Road, flip down, pin in place.





Depends on laws, just trying to help (cuz I dont know to the extent of youre laws)




If youre lift is alowed??????????


But youre BodyLift isent?????????


you must have high restrictions

If you use the lift and wheel track formula thingie that I've seen then just ad wheel spacers

[knixen]

Originally Posted by tntoyota

OK Knixen, how are the DOT regs in youre country, do you have enforcement officers that patrol the steets looking for "Law breakers"?

The norwegian department of vehicles has controll unanounced along the highways often. But they usually are looking for other things, but If you are pulled over and they see whats installed and not approved on your car you will have a problem. You might have to build your car back to stock.

Or are you obigated to once a year inspections that you have to take the vehical to?

Once every two years you have to get it inspected according to EU regulations.


Is it modifications in general or is it more bumper hight?

It is specific regulations like suspension lift, Body lift, bigger tires and trail armor.

My ratonal is (not recomending) IF I wanted to run a 500h.p 22RE, nitrus injected, super motor, bad euough, I would once a year (as per emissions laws in NA) swap my motor have it tested, then switch back, as most enfocement officers here would not know in the event I was pulled or they would not ENFORCE it altogether, (I would cut it off before he could hear it )

It is easy here to get larger engines approved, because the law doesnt say anything specific about that. But lifting the car....


If it's bumber height I would make a flip down pin in place type bumper, OFF-Road flip up, pin in place, ON-Road, flip down, pin in place.

I am concidering it, but the only thing that REALLY helps is a TUV certificate, which means the products have been tested for your car and is concidered street safe.



Depends on laws, just trying to help (cuz I dont know to the extent of youre laws)




If youre lift is alowed??????????

My lift is TUV-approved, and I have gotten a pre-approval to get it into my "pink-slip".

But youre BodyLift isent?????????

Thats right, I could have gotten eather one, bot not both.

you must have high restrictions

Thats right!

If you use the lift and wheel track formula thingie that I've seen then just ad wheel spacers

I aggree, but then theres a problem with getting the increased with of the car. And that will be a bigger problem again...

I have gotten a pre approval on the 4" trailmaster kit with 15x10 -44 rims. And only 31s, I am trying to get it approved with 35s. The bodylift comes off in a week or two...

Yesterday my snorkel was installed, quite easily too.

Some pics...

[tntoyota]

Suspension lift with BJ spacers (Dont tell anyone about the spacers, just lell'em it sat that hight when you got finished instaling it )




or look into a 6" susp lift. (I swear I think someone makes it)

or 4" w/ custom arms (I think once every 2 years you can roll the susp down for the EU thingie)


B.S'em.......................I mean try to explain it's safer (6" kit) than 4" plus BL.




If its bumber hight leave the bumper brakets off (stock location + the approved 4" lift) with BL instaled




I'd call Artic Trucks also, they might have some pull or privy to info you dont know.

[knixen]

Originally Posted by tntoyota

Suspension lift with BJ spacers (Dont tell anyone about the spacers, just lell'em it sat that hight when you got finished instaling it )


I`d rather go SAS...

or look into a 6" susp lift. (I swear I think someone makes it)

or 4" w/ custom arms (I think once every 2 years you can roll the susp down for the EU thingie)

I`m quite happy with my current kit, with just a few modifications it will be great.

B.S'em.......................I mean try to explain it's safer (6" kit) than 4" plus BL.

But the BL is about to come off...


If its bumber hight leave the bumper brakets off (stock location + the approved 4" lift) with BL instaled

Bumper hight isnt really a problem, but I am thinking of making some kind of lover detachable bumper... Just to please them...



I'd call Artic Trucks also, they might have some pull or privy to info you dont know.

I have talked to them lotsa times, and they really cant/wont help. A friend of mine works at the norwegian dmv og he says even their approval is a bit shaky. And its part of the problem with getting highted wehicles approved.

But I really apreciate the advice!

The thing I have to argue with is that other cars in norway is approved with the same lift and larger tires. So mine should too!!!