Suspension Rattle....

[PurpleFJ62]

Hi. Just drove my runner and every time I go over a bump there is a metal on metal sound. Now I would not want to waste your time with a little problem like this, but I have spent the last 5 hours under the thing tapping on things, looking with my flash light, etc. Sounds like its coming from the rear, checked the rear suspension, it checks ok. The sound, sounds like sheet metal on sheet metal.
I will try to post some pics for a visual reference.





























A question to you more experience members. In the 2nd pic you see this valve looking object with a rod going to it? Is this a LSPV? My 62 series has a spongy brake pedal and a rough idle, this LSPV is listed in the haynes manual and FSM. I should ask this in the 60 section, but ill ask it here to. I have never seen this thing under my 62. Do they come with them?

sorry for rambling....

[PurpleFJ62]

sorry, but I finally found problem. It was an exhaust hanger after the Cat converter. Can't believe, I must have looked at it 100 times.... Its totally rotted out, are replacments available?

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'd take it to a mufler guy and get him to weld it back together, They may have stuff like that on had if it's too bad to fix.

I dont' know if your 62 has an LSPV but even if it does, your brakes probably have air in the lines if the pedal is spongy....

I just bled my brakes cause they were spongy. I'd start at the LSPV as it's one of the high points. That's wher I did and it fixed it right up!

Rough idle could be a lot of things, I'd sugest the 60 section for that though.

[PurpleFJ62]

I tried to find this LSPV and I could not, so if the brakes are still screwed up than it must be something else. You anything about removing the drums on the toyota rear axle?
I see I have finally learned how to post pictures on here. Took a while.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Removing the drums can be a pain if the last person didn't use anti-sieze. If they don't come off you may need to beat on them pretty good.....

[PurpleFJ62]

remove by destructive means if necessary

How about torch, or will you cook something you dont want to.

On the pic of my 4runner that I posted it took me about 20 min to get each wheel off. I was kicking the living shit out of it. Even tapped it with my brass hammer to try to break it loose. Needless to say when it was reassembled the entire mating surfaces were silver with anti sieze.

I am a firm believer in that stuff, used it on every thing.
Always a big time consumer for me it taking bolts apart that are siezed, gotta get the torch and go to town. Only if antisieze was standard equipment.

I could tell you a story about my 3rd gen 4runner that would make your blood boil.....

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If you get the drums free from the axle ends and they won't come off you will need to back off the shoes with a screw driver through a small hole on the lower inside (facing diff) of the rear brakes (there is a hole that's oblong and usually has a rubber plug in it). You will need 2 screw sticks, one to hold the little lock thing up and the other to turn the adjuster.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I just remembered that there are 2 threaded holes in each drum so you can thread a bolt in and press them off...... But if they are too rusted or too stuck, you only get one chance. I would back the shoes way off before trying this.....

[PurpleFJ62]

sounds like alot of fun. I think I will read the FSM several times on this one. Never touched drum brakes before.

So it is safe to use torch?

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Yeah, a torch should be fine, just keep it around the lug studs, and once you get both drums off, only work on one side at a time so you have something to look at (the other side).

[PurpleFJ62]

sounds like a plan. the 4runner breaks very well compared to the land cruiser. The cruiser needs discs on the rear axle.

here is a question for you, who makes a good floor press. Would like to put one in my barn. they are so useful for hubs and studs.