My 63" chevy spring swap

[Bear80]

Details on my rig: Rotbw - IH8MUD.com Forum

After much reading around on the web and pirate, I went ahead with the chevy spring swap. For those who are like me and CANNOT weld, don't worry! The stock length springs can stay on while you measure and mark for the new mounts. Then just run it to a welder, not the muffler guys, and you're set. I went with these springs because my Downey springs where at the full point of suck after just a few years. The chevies also are so cheap at the 'yards here that they can be readily replaced down the road. From the little time I got to try these springs, they flex really well and ride LIKE A NEW TRUCK!! I also worked it so that I can run the shocks in the stock locations, which kept it simple.

I went with a Bud-bulit front mount because of its low profile and optional slide cover (which I didn't use). The rear mounts came from Trail Gear and the shackles from Ruff Stuff. I had a local shop make ubolts and picked up a 4* castor shim. I also have a longer brake line and the e-brake cable's axle mounts had to spaced up with a few washers.

I had to cut the 1/2" tab off the front of the Bud-built hanger so it would set flush on the frame's crossmember. This crossemember may differ on other trucks since mine is a xtra cab.


This allowed for the front mount to be 11.5" forward (hole to hole) from the stock hanger. The picture shows it to be less than 11.5" but that is due to the tape measure being above the bolt. I moved it 1/2" more to 11.5" so the axle would be in nearly the stock location. 11" puts the axle slightly back in the fender, which gives clearance between the tire and the front of the fender. Great for big tires but I'm only running 33s and wanted everything as close to stock as possible. Also the stock hangers will have to be cut off, right now I just have them spread apart and they still hit the springs.


The rear hangers are set at 4-5/8" (hole to hole) back from stock. After finishing it, I think I could have put it at 4-3/8" to give a little better shackle angle.


The shackles are listed as 6" but are really 5" (hole to hole), though they still worked out great. The 1/8" offest on each makes up for the 1/4" more width of the chevy springs. This is of course if you chose to use a Toyota width hanger. I also had to have the holes drilled larger for the Toyota 3/4" bolt and Chevy 5/8" bolts, I think Ruff Stuff provided them with only a 1/2" hole at each end.


To keep the factory shock mounting I had a local spring shop make a set of ubolts. The new ubolts are 2.5" wide but since they are of a softer metal than the stock Toyota's and longer, I was able to squeeze them together enough to get them through the stock bottom plates. I then just cut the extra lenght off the ubolts just past the nuts.


--Updated-- I put on some load leafs off a Tundra, posted later in this thread




I got a nice 3" of lift and I'm very happy with the outcome. Don't be fooled though, I didn't get it right the first time and spent A LOT of time with this and more money than I should have. BUT hopefully my writeup saves someone the pains I went through.

[Isotel]

good writeup.. What did the swap cost you? Excluding welding costs..

once you drive around on those springs for a couple weeks they will sag a bit, and your shackle angle should be Dead on!

Also, what springs/suspension setup are you running in the front?

[Bear80]

The springs ran me $40 at the pick-n-pull, and there are plenty more there for the future, if I need them. Front mounts where $55, rear mounts $35 and shackles about $38. The ubolts cost me $25 and the shim about another $20. The longer brake line was $25, but is optional with choice of shock lengths. The welding should run in the $60 for those looking to do this.

However, I went through a previous set of front mounts. They where from Trail Gear, not as low profile and got messed up when I tried to remove them. I originally put the front hanger 11" forward but I didn't like where the tires sat in the fenders. I also had the rear hangers at 4" back and didn't like the shackle angle or the lack of lift I was geting. So I had to grind those off, and fortunately they where re-useable.

So far I have about 500miles on the springs. I also put the spare on and put an extra 100lbs in the back of bed to help settle the springs. I didn't notcie them come down any. They match my front setup perfectly, with just a tad bit of rake since the front is set just under 3". This is my front setup: '86-'95 1st Generation IFS lift/upgrade Options - IH8MUD.com Forum

[ntsqd]

I did the same swap last year on my '84 Xcab. The springs are nearly as long as the bed! I got all of the bits from Trevor @ WFO though I later ended up making my own spring plates w/ 1/2" U-bolts as I set the shocks too close & his 5/8" U-bolts & plates rubbed. First class parts from WFO & Trevor is a hoot to talk to.

I used the stock yota overload, upside down & with all of the gubbins shaved off, rather than the monster GM part. FWIW welded spring steel won't hang in there long term.

The truck likely has about 8k-10k miles on those springs. That and going to Bils on all four corners are the two best mods I've done to the truck.

I've got some low suspension speed damping issues, but then the remote 7100's were used. Plan is to tear them down after Memorial Day & find out what their gig is.

[Bear80]

Originally Posted by ntsqd

I used the stock yota overload, upside down & with all of the gubbins shaved off, rather than the monster GM part. FWIW welded spring steel won't hang in there long term.

Yeah I was aware of that when I cut the load leaf. However I'm not sure the load leaf is much to worry about like say a leaf pack. I would have tried the Toyota leaf but it was taken off years ago by the previous owner. If this load leaf breaks, the chevy springs are strong enough to be run on a 'yota without any type of anti-wrap leaf or I'll figure somthing else out.

As for your swap, what kind of shackle did you use, a typical 6" or double?

[ntsqd]

In cycling the suspension w/o the load leaf it became obvious that running w/o it would soon kink the bottom leaf at the perch. No way would I suggest going w/o unless race truck level maint. is in the plan and the budget. And then the better plan would be a set of Deavers.

I'd have to measure it for length, but it is a WFO shackle. SOP guess is 6" center to center.

[Bear80]

Update-

I found that the load leafs on a 2wd Tundra are nice and short. I picked up a set and swaped out my chevy cut/flip leafs. For anyone else I would say re-using the stock 'yota ones would be easiest but I like the Tundies I got.

[ajfriz]

I just got my chevies to use with my sas. I am needing 6 inches of lift. I sure hope I can get it out of these...

[Bear80]

You'll need at least a 2" block if you want close to 6" of lift. I got about 4" with an empty bed, put the spare and rear hitch on and it came down to under 4, like a soild 3". My front is set at a sure 2.5" over stock and the rear sets just higher, looks like the same rake a new truck has.

[Bear80]

Finally some flex shots......only 1yr later.



Full extension.



Near fully compressed.