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Old 03-03-07, 09:05 PM   #1
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Manual Hub Conversion questions

I recently switched from Toyota automatic to Mile Marker manual hubs (they work great). Because I'm unsure of exactly how it works now and I don't want to break anything, I always stop when engaging 4hi or 4low with the hubs locked. Can I shift on the fly into 4hi from 2hi and from 4hi to 4low and at what speeds can I do this.


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Old 03-03-07, 09:35 PM   #2
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what year?

edit 89... in your sig line
yes it is fine to shift in and out.... not to 4 low from 4 hi- no reason to. but from 2 to 4 hi is fine

If you want IFS Toyota hubs- I got em


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Old 03-03-07, 10:27 PM   #3
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According to the owners manual, you can shift into 4hi at speeds up to 55, but I have done it at 60-65 with no problems. You don't even have to push in the clutch, although it's hard not to. To shift into/out of 4lo, you should be stopped, but you can fudge it at less than 5mph.


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Old 03-03-07, 11:07 PM   #4
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send me your stock hubs!!!

ill send you some warn hubs!

i need the cone washers, too

i hate warn hubs. junk.

you can "upgrade"

will you please send me you aisin hubs?

wait i kind of jumped the gun. i am only interested in manual aisian hubs. all years


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Old 03-04-07, 12:19 AM   #5
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send me your stock hubs!!!

ill send you some warn hubs!

i need the cone washers, too

i hate warn hubs. junk.

you can "upgrade"

will you please send me you aisin hubs?

wait i kind of jumped the gun. i am only interested in manual aisian hubs. all years

what do u need these for? I have many years


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Old 03-04-07, 03:25 AM   #6
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what do u need these for? I have many years
spares. and to give to my buddies that were dumb and used warn hubs.

i need a set for a 1980 truck and for a 1989 truck

theres only 2 manual types right? the blue ones and the red ones?


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Old 03-04-07, 09:52 AM   #7
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You can ONLY shift-on-the-fly between 2HI and 4HI if your hubs are locked. The front spinny bits (technical term ) need to be turning the same speed, or you will chew up the cog in the t-case.

You're supposed to be stopped to go from 4HI to 4LO, but ya you can do it if you're gentle and moving really slow.

I also have a nice set of spare IFS AISIN hubs I'm trying to sell, includes all the hardware and a new set of gaskets:



Asking $50.


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Old 03-04-07, 12:02 PM   #8
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Wristy, The solid axle and IFS hubs are different, I don't know about the newer blue ones... So there may be 3 or more types....
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Old 03-04-07, 12:41 PM   #9
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What is so crappy about the after market hubs? Is their design really that much different? Should I get rid of my milemarkers and just keep them around as spares or something? Thanks for all the replies guys.

Brian


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Old 03-04-07, 12:47 PM   #10
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The Warns I hear need constant retightening because then don't use the cone washer system to bolt on. I don't know much about the MileMarkers, but I have heard that there's nothing stronger than the Aisins. FWIW.....
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Old 03-04-07, 01:06 PM   #11
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The Warns I hear need constant retightening because then don't use the cone washer system to bolt on. I don't know much about the MileMarkers, but I have heard that there's nothing stronger than the Aisins. FWIW.....
yep and dont get superwinch hubs they are the bottom of the barrel.i had to hammer mine to get them off


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Old 03-04-07, 01:59 PM   #12
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Besides the lack of conewashers, Warns are considered disposable on the trail. Here's what happens to them:



I've seen this happen several times. An AISIN hub will never do that. They're not indestructable, but darned close!


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Old 03-04-07, 08:58 PM   #13
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I think they are indestructable.... you will break a chromoly axle before breaking one of these... the rockcrawler guys run a "fuseable link" warn hub..... so it will break before they break an axle shaft (running Longfields, and chromo.) it is easier to change a hub in comp. than an axle shaft which may also damge your diff.


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Old 03-04-07, 11:22 PM   #14
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There was a thread on Pirate a few weeks ago about them, a few guys posted that they have busted the inner splined cog part. But they really had to hammer on them.

But grenade the outer hub body like that? Nope.


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Old 03-05-07, 02:25 AM   #15
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Wristy, The solid axle and IFS hubs are different, I don't know about the newer blue ones... So there may be 3 or more types....
i know
the strait axle ones have a blue turn thing
and the ifs ones have a red turn thing.


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Old 03-05-07, 02:28 AM   #16
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What is so crappy about the after market hubs? Is their design really that much different? Should I get rid of my milemarkers and just keep them around as spares or something? Thanks for all the replies guys.

Brian
you need to check this thread out.


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Old 03-05-07, 08:38 AM   #17
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i know
the strait axle ones have a blue turn thing
and the ifs ones have a red turn thing.
The blue dial ones are ASCO hubs, they came on some solid axle trucks (I have a set on an 80 model I have). Most SA trucks came with the red dial AISIN hubs, as did the IFS trucks.

The SA hubs have a raised and rounded dial surface, whereas the IFS hubs have a flat dial... along with the obvious difference in inner cam spline count of course.


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Old 03-05-07, 05:03 PM   #18
 
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When did they go to the vacume lock front diff?



If it's vac lock are'nt all you comparing apples to orange's?


Vac lock's are just spline lock disc's and not, NOT even lock in, lock out, or auto hub's?


And facktory hubs are a direct bolt on and way better alternitive.

And the best of both worlds.

shift on the fly
Low2
better fuel economy

Last edited by tntoyota; 03-05-07 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 03-05-07, 05:15 PM   #19
 
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Besides the lack of conewashers, Warns are considered disposable on the trail. Here's what happens to them:



I've seen this happen several times. An AISIN hub will never do that. They're not indestructable, but darned close!


I have seen/heard about Warn hub fuses, where these the hub without the fuse, are they the same, I don't know.


Would the alternative have been a brocke CV/birfield?
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Old 03-05-07, 05:25 PM   #20
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Warn hubs are the fuse, I don't think they make one that's weak on purpose..... Yes, that saves the birf/CV's/axles.....
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Old 03-05-07, 05:28 PM   #21
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When did they go to the vacume lock front diff?



If it's vac lock are'nt all you comparing apples to orange's?


Vac lock's are just spline lock disc's and not, NOT even lock in, lock out, or auto hub's?


And facktory hubs are a direct bolt on and way better alternitive.
Their isnt a vacuum operated diff lock- it is the ADD system and it utilizes a collar (not a "spline lock disc") to sleeve the axle shaft (driverside) coming out of and OPEN diff to the axle shaft going to the drivers side wheel, making it connect the axle shafts together (1 side has 2 axle shafts)

the auto hubs really arent, they are drive flanges (for ADD systems) they spin all the time (axle shafts) thats where the collar that sleeves the 2 axle shafts comes into play allowing the front to spin freely (with the minumal drag that a cv joint will make) until you lock (slide the sleeve over the 2 driverside axles locking them)


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Old 03-05-07, 06:05 PM   #22
 
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Their isnt a vacuum operated diff lock- it is the ADD system and it utilizes a collar (not a "spline lock disc") to sleeve the axle shaft (driverside) coming out of and OPEN diff to the axle shaft going to the drivers side wheel, making it connect the axle shafts together (1 side has 2 axle shafts)

the auto hubs really arent, they are drive flanges (for ADD systems) they spin all the time (axle shafts) thats where the collar that sleeves the 2 axle shafts comes into play allowing the front to spin freely (with the minumal drag that a cv joint will make) until you lock (slide the sleeve over the 2 driverside axles locking them)


Sorry I did not specify "Vac lock" I ment "A Vac Lock's hub assembly"


And did not know what a "drive flange" is.


The actuator NONE the less IS vacume operated, sorry.
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Old 03-05-07, 06:11 PM   #23
 
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Warn hubs are the fuse, I don't think they make one that's weak on purpose..... Yes, that saves the birf/CV's/axles.....


I seem to recall but think they did away with it.


It was a ring inside the hub desighned to fail (fuse)

and I don't think off-roader's warmed up to it.


Weird, functional, if you arent a rock crawler, but weired.


no body buy'e they no sell'y
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Old 03-05-07, 06:19 PM   #24
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Warn hubs are the fuse, I don't think they make one that's weak on purpose..... Yes, that saves the birf/CV's/axles.....
tntoy, beat me to it- but at one time they did make these(anymore?)


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Old 03-05-07, 06:52 PM   #25
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Good to know... I guess a hub weaker than their normal (weak) hub would be a pain in the arse.... If it was adjustable..... that might be cool. If you could set it to break at a certain torque.....

Here's a "drive flange" (bottom) next to a locking hub.....



A regular locking hub....



And a "auto locking hub"

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Old 03-05-07, 06:53 PM   #26
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And a good site explaining them all.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/autohub/
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Old 03-05-07, 07:09 PM   #27
 
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Good to know... I guess a hub weaker than their normal (weak) hub would be a pain in the arse....