Newbie Questions.

[raymeg]

I just picked up a `84 4runner;"no title"and a `85 pick up "with title".I have posted some pics in my introduction.I have a few questions I need to get answered so that I have some kind of direction for this project.
First off both trucks have 22r motor.The one in the truck has a rod knocking.It runs but really rough.The 4runner`s motor is said to be in good shape only needing a starter and the carb reinstalled.Which motor would be the best to rebuild?The `84 or the `85?I know the 2 motors are a little different,what I`m trying to find out is which year motor is the better one and why.I was thinking about taking the motor out of the truck and putting it on the stand in the shop and rebuilding it.Once I have that motor out of the truck take the motor out of the 4runner and drop in the truck to use until I get the other rebuilt.Thanks for any insight or help.Rayme.

[WristPin]

if the 85 is injected, i would swap out the the bottom ends.
injection is better. I know you say 22R, not 22RE, but just incase...

other than the two years, its not much of a difference. things like emmisons are changed. i think they displace the same amount of cc's

you should consider using the 'enter' button more oftten, so i can read your posts better

the Nippon-Denso starter is a well made unit, and should never-ever be replaced by after market junk.
these starters are serviceable, and when serviced will provide long life.

all you have to do is replace the copper solenoid contacts and the plunger.
last it checked was five bucks for the contacts and fifteen for the plunger.

infact, i buy starters from people who refuse my advice and want to buy some autozone garbage. i usally give em 5 bucks over the core charge, to make it worth thier while.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

They could both be 22Rs if the 4Runner was an 85 then it would probably be FI'd, but since the truck is the 85 it has a good chance of being carbed.

[raymeg]

I got the carb running pretty smooth on the `85 tonight.Bad news!She almost threw the rod once I got the carb to idle. Now I have to get the motor out.I started the process and got really slowed down once I started taking the bolts out around the tranny.I got the bottom ones out fine,but these top ones are pain in the.....................
Does anybody have a tip on how to remove these bolts?

["N8"]

Originally Posted by raymeg

I got the carb running pretty smooth on the `85 tonight.Bad news!She almost threw the rod once I got the carb to idle. Now I have to get the motor out.I started the process and got really slowed down once I started taking the bolts out around the tranny.I got the bottom ones out fine,but these top ones are pain in the.....................
Does anybody have a tip on how to remove these bolts?

You need about 5 extentions for the uppermost bolt and make sure its a good socket your using. Just use the extentions to get the wrench past the bell housing.

[tntoyota]

OK,

I installed my V6 into my 4r 30/HARD/k miles ago left top and pretty much except for 2-3 bolts out since then.

Get jack Place jack under trans/t.c X member lift X member Remove X member bolts (8) 17mm?? Gently lower jack remove X member from t.c Get long Xtention Have fun.

You're results may vary

X, means cross

IH8W8, means I hate weight

*Edit* Damn, too slow

[extremetoy1]

Originally Posted by tntoyota

OK,

I installed my V6 into my 4r 30/HARD/k miles ago left top and pretty much except for 2-3 bolts out since then.

Get jack Place jack under trans/t.c X member lift X member Remove X member bolts (8) 17mm?? Gently lower jack remove X member from t.c Get long Xtention Have fun.

You're results may vary

X, means cross

IH8W8, means I hate weight

*Edit* Damn, too slow

You left bolts OUT?! why? I think the engineers put them there for a reason!

as hard as it may seem to put them back, when they cause an issue it will be much harder.

[tntoyota]

Yeah so I can cuss'em cut'em (My Hands) want to kill them (The person who's idea it was to put them there), etc.

GoAhead Put them back I sure as Smell won't in mine, makes it EZer for eng removal next time. IE dropping the trans/T.C just to put it back up again


MY thoughts are the bolts hold the bellhousing to the motor the alighnment dowls (probobly heat treated, forged, etc.) keep the two from twisting.

With Toyota you will find things that are't nesseseraly better off the (compicated) way they had it.

My advice is If you havent thought of this already, put ALL the bellhousing bolts back, don't listen to me.


I also did'nt say leave them all out I just implyed I will always leave out the top two.
there's only twenty bolts???!!!!


IH8W8

[raymeg]

Would it just be better to remove the tranny as well at the same time?

[tntoyota]

HARD, If you think you can pull it through and need to G4I. I did once and OMG,(flash back) had to DC sway bar(IFS) after start/during attempt, watch your crane. Look^^^^^^ lots of room needed. Would not recommend you'll end up having to rest MTR/Trans/TC on rad support to rechain, hows yours look?


ADVICE:::: DO NOT USE COME-A-LONG TO PICK TC UP 2 CLEAR RAD SUPT.

My crane almost fell over and it did suddenly drop.


*EDIT* 2MN only landCruiser's have the little "escape hatch" or top rad. support(X section removal) this would rule in mini's

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I would sugest pulling the tranny out, it's a half hour job once you've done it a few times, and I find it easier to mate the tranny back to the engine instead of the engine back to the tranny. IE engine goes in first.