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Old 02-04-07, 01:34 PM   #1
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92 4x4 22RE steady skip after new timing chain?

Just bought a new project, 92 PU 22RE 137,000 miles, previous owner just replaced the timing chain (he says it was just noisey and did not brake at high speed) . It has a steady skip at any speed, it does idle well, but has no power. It will do 55 mph struggling along.
Could he be off one spoke on the cam gear?, Or maybe something else? What would you check first, second, etc?
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Old 02-05-07, 11:18 AM   #2
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only way I would think to really know is to rip the front side off and set the engine to top dead center and see if the valves are not congruent with the piston.


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Old 02-05-07, 04:44 PM   #3
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You can tell with just the valve cover off.... The timing mark on the cam shaft should be at about 11:30 when the engine's at TDC.
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Old 02-05-07, 08:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
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only way I would think to really know is to rip the front side off and set the engine to top dead center and see if the valves are not congruent with the piston.
I don't think so. Too much work to do that
Set the timing mark to TDC and pull the valve cover. The front cylinder(#1) will be at TDC and the rockers should be loose on the intake and exhaust valves.
The cam locating pin should be at 12:00 position and the dimple on the cam gear about 11:30.
The distributor adjusting bolt should be about in the middle of the elongated slot if it is in the right location teeth wise.
Good luck.
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Old 02-05-07, 08:26 PM   #5
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Ok, Thanks guys, I checked the chain, its on the mark. So I got the compression gauge out, #4 120, #3 120, #2 110, #1 60. So I guess I have bent valves on cylinder #1. I have never replaced a head, so I will keep you fellows posted on my progress.
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Old 02-05-07, 11:09 PM   #6
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I'd check your valve clearences while you're in there looking at timing, you could just have a tight valve that's not seating completely....
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Old 02-05-07, 11:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I'd check your valve clearences while you're in there looking at timing, you could just have a tight valve that's not seating completely....
ya that would explain the lack of power.and do a wet test also


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Old 02-07-07, 08:05 AM   #8
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Well, I adjusted the valves, set the timing, and it runs alot better. I checked my local head rebuilder, he said $150 for repair and $350 for rebuild. So I am just going to ride a while like it is.
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Old 02-07-07, 10:01 AM   #9
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Good, I'm glad we could help.
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Old 02-07-07, 09:30 PM   #10
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Ok, Thanks guys, I checked the chain, its on the mark. So I got the compression gauge out, #4 120, #3 120, #2 110, #1 60. So I guess I have bent valves on cylinder #1. I have never replaced a head, so I will keep you fellows posted on my progress.
Now that the valves are adjusted and the timing reset, is it still missing? Do another compression test, compare the numbers.
Danny
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Old 02-07-07, 09:36 PM   #11
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Well, I adjusted the valves, set the timing, and it runs alot better. I checked my local head rebuilder, he said $150 for repair and $350 for rebuild. So I am just going to ride a while like it is.
ENGNBLDR.com has heads for; Stock $388.00 FULLY ASSEMBLED with NEW Valves, springs, guides/seals, 30.00 shipping, new casting and all. I would drop the coin there instead of a rebuild.
I have replaced several 22RE heads with engnbldr heads and the quality is unsurpassable
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Old 02-20-07, 07:09 PM   #12
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I'm back with trouble

Well she just won't go down the road like she should , no getup and go. I ordered the headgasket and timing chain kit from engbldr, and here I go!



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Old 02-23-07, 06:50 AM   #13
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the dist goes in like 5 degrees BTDC if i remember, i put it in at TDC the first time and it wouldn't start/run right.

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Old 02-26-07, 04:11 PM   #14
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Here is a picture of my truck.


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Old 02-26-07, 04:14 PM   #15
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and another



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Old 02-26-07, 04:17 PM   #16
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OK, got the old head off, I made the mistake of trying to remove, intake and head all at once (I read a post here somewhere, says you can ), Believe me you can't do it without a hoist. I will try to post another pic.


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Old 02-26-07, 04:19 PM   #17
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In this picture I am looking for a bent valve, or a problem on #1. (no compression)



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Old 02-26-07, 04:21 PM   #18
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And here is the head laying in the floor.



Well maybe not, I exceeded my quota? Is that per day?
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Old 02-26-07, 04:23 PM   #19
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I think I got this picture thing figured out!





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Old 02-28-07, 04:28 PM   #20
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Ok, only had one problem removing head (not counting the hidden allen head bolt) I rounded the head off on one of the head bolts, had to break out the sawzall, then put the trusty vise grips on it, came right out.




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Old 02-28-07, 04:29 PM   #21
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Time to clean the block.


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Old 02-28-07, 04:55 PM   #22
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my brother Broke the Chain on his 89 Runner this weekend, so im going to be helping him tear into it soon.. We found a new Head localy for $300..

Im wondering what the best way to go about finding out if the valves are bent?? i dont think i could test the compression without the new chain on?

Thanks for the step by step!
Trevor


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Old 02-28-07, 05:43 PM   #23
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No chain, no compression. The only way to tell if you bent the valves is to dig in! At least to the valve cover. You can turn the cam over by hand and watch all the valve stems to see if they come up all the way..... But you could have bent one very slightly..... So pull the head.
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Old 02-28-07, 05:49 PM   #24
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That might be the reason I own this truck today. The owner replaced the chain, but it ran like a 3 legged dog afterwards. He did not want any more wrench turning.

I can not think of a way to test the valves with the head still on.

My head rebuilder, put a compression test on my suspect # 1 cylinder (from the exhaust port I think) it failed.
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Old 03-01-07, 03:54 PM   #25
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Ok, Got my rebuilt head, here local.



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Old 03-02-07, 06:58 PM   #26
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Hey Check it out, head is on!




Ben the supervisor hovers over!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...u/DSC00093.jpg

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Old 03-04-07, 07:17 AM   #27
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Take note! Make sure you put your oil pump drive gear on this way!,,,lol
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Old 03-04-07, 05:05 PM   #28
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Got it back together, she fired up on the first spin.

only 3 problems, 3 water leaks. Had to remove the intake, loosen the water connections, add the permatex (i forgot), put it back together again.

And all with only one bolt left over, and hey I even know where it goes, It just will not thread in the hole..

Man, I'm I glad I don't do this for a living, I'm an older fellow and I have sore spots everywhere.

I will adjust those valves again in a couple of days, but she runs great.
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Old 03-04-07, 06:44 PM   #29
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Glad to hear it went smoothishly.... The good news is you won't have to do it for 10 more years!!! You may want to start resting up!
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Old 03-05-07, 06:26 PM   #30
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Check it out,,,shiny link on the dot,,,color coded bolt heads!


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